'Shifter

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone replaced their o.e. dual fans (mine's an 87) with a
Perma Cool pn 19115 (the 16" aluminum blade model)? I've got
a problem while sitting still, and a previous owner changed out
the o.e. primary fan for what looks like a Hayden, and it just doesn't
seem to be pulling enough cfm. Any thought would be appreciated.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I swapped mine out to dual 12" permacool models (PRM-19008). Worked great I even used the OEM brackets and just used 2 or 3 zip ties on each mounting spot. Flow enough air you can feel air movement when you hold your hand near the door rockers.

Depending on how fast it's kicking in you might consider doing the manual fan switch mod. That'll let you have more control, instead of waiting till 200+ degrees before it turns on.

'Shifter

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about that one....I don't mind a manual switch since it only gets cold here 3-4 days a year.... How does it work
with your a/c going in the summer?

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Check out this article https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/cool.shtml

'Shifter

iTrader: (2)

It's a great article, full of useful tips, but I'm kinda trying to see
which aftermarket fan works best, especially in the Arizona warmth.

'Shifter

iTrader: (2)

O.k.-rethink...I've ordered a Spal dual fan pn 2059, a JET temp
sender and a Mr. Gasket fail-safe high-flow 160 thermostat, and
some Red-Line Water Wetter of course..... Hopefully the whole
set-up will work with my oe relay set-up. I'll let everyone know as
soon as it's done.....

Lucid

iTrader: (4)

Mine overheated a lot as well, found a good used Modine aluminum radiator at junkyard and installed it, new fan relay harness from dealer, spliced in a Hayden adjustable thermostically controlled relay (with radiator probe) from oreillys for like $20 in parallel with the stock relay at 160* so if the hayden relay doesnt kick on the ecm will power on the fan at 225*, 160* thermostat (drilled bypass holes to allow it to untrap airbubbles at idle). Works pretty good, planning to install a dual fan setup i bought from Ramchargers as soon as i figure out how to wire it up. You want to get the largest CFM fan you can afford, the OEM single fan pulls somewhere around .??? 1000CFM, someone told me a good rule of thumb is 1000CFM for every 100 horsepower. MIne makes roughly 215-230, so the 2500 CFM should be good. Also having a shroud over the radiator helps, as well as making sure your air dam is in good shape. I don't remember seeing a big difference when i used the water wetter. Check your hoses make sure they aren't ballooning or collapsing, and that your water pump is in good shape. Its better to get a puller fan than a pusher, because pullers are more efficient. I'm in texas and we see over 100+ days here too, and i know how nice it is to turn on the a/c without the car boiling over.

Good luck

'Shifter

iTrader: (2)

These o.e. fans are really chappin' my hide. I've got the JET fan
switch in, and the water wetter and the hi-flo Mr. Gasket stat, and
it now runs at 140 or so as long as I'm moving, even with the AC
on. Sitting still is a different gig. 8 minutes later while standing
still temp goes up steadily to 250. Passneger fan never kicked on.
I've got the solution, just wanted to get by while I make this killer
shroud out of 3/16" aluminum for my Spal dual fan. The radiator,
water pump and air dam are all in very good repair, just can't get
the dang o.e. fans to do what thery are supposed to do.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

What are you basing your engine temps on? Data logging, or the dash guage?

Those dash guages are notorious for being VERY inaccurate!!! About all you can rely on is farther up the guage is warmer than the other direction. Don't believe any numbers on them....

'Shifter

iTrader: (2)

Strangely, the dash temp reads just over 260 about the time it
begins to overheat.....

I think for once, the gauge and engine temp are in harmony....