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I am going to be reconverting my A/C pretty soon...

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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 01:01 AM
  #1  
91ChevyRS's Avatar
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
I am going to be reconverting my A/C pretty soon...

I just need to know what are a few things I need to buy.

I know I need an R134a Retrofit Kit from one of the auto stores but I believe there is more to that.

Do I need to get a new compressor and all of that new a/c hoses and all of that? I was told that running an R134a system on an R12 compressor is just a one way ticket for trouble.

And also how hard is it to get this a/c system renewed? Let's say how hard is it for a somewhat of a guy who knows what he is doing?

IS there a book I can buy that will explain to me in full detail how to reconvert my a/c on cars like these? What I must do?

Any opinions, links, help, words would be truly helpful to me and I would greatly appreciate it.
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 12:09 PM
  #2  
Danno's Avatar
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
It's been posted quite a bit, but here's the short version. To do it correct you need new barrier hoses, new seals, new orifice tube and probably a new compressor. The front shaft seals won't take 134 without leaking at some point. You can do it on the cheap, but most times you wind up adding refrigerant on a constant basis. You are better off finding a dealer who still has 12. It's actually cheaper to top off with 12 than to do a PROPER conversion to 134. Cars that came with 134 have more problems than the 12 units, just ask any decent mechanic who does AC work.
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 02:57 PM
  #3  
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From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
Danno is very correct. There is nothing that comes close to R-12.
It has been nearly 100 degrees in NYC, for the last week or two. The A.C. still works, w/o overheating.

All praise R-12.

R-134A will not make you happy. I have been pushing the merits of organic (sort of flammable) refrigerants, as they cool as well as R-12, but do try to get the R-12. I have seen it at HamFests for under $20/tin. The system holds 3 pounds (4 tins).
To do it yourself you would need an A.C. vacuum pump, and a manifold guage set. There must be no air mixed with the freon, as the moisture in that air corrodes the system. Using the pump, makes the moisture boil out . BTW, R-134A requires the same tools. Also, If you switch to R-134A, use Ester oil, as the PAG oil, found in many kits, is not backwards-compatible with R-12.

A.C. theory is real easy, if you are interested.

Seth

Last edited by NoTransistors; Aug 15, 2005 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 11:05 PM
  #4  
91ChevyRS's Avatar
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
I guess I'll just buy like six cans of the freon and finish online at EBAY. Should I be pretty safe on this subject right now? Ebay sells like 6 cans of 12 oz freons for 50 a piece...everywhere else is charging a ridiculous amount, I believe I heard that the Camaro only needs like 4 cans 12 oz. I am not sure if this is entirely accurate.

First I want to get an a/c check just to make sure my system is full and operating, the freon in that car has lasted about 4 years but was rarely used during the first 2 years, it was used reguarly on the last two years and it still blows around 70 degreeish (not necessarily the coolest but hey...)

I dont feel like reconverting, too many things can go wrong.

I shouldve said 50 a set, not 50 a piece, its about 20 bucks per can, and some are 15 per can, but this is a set of 6 cans for 50 bucks plus 5.50 for shipping....

Last edited by 91ChevyRS; Aug 16, 2005 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #5  
PHAT89TA's Avatar
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From: Newark, Ca, USA
Car: 02 ws-6
Engine: 5.7 liter
Transmission: t56
I've done this conversion to my car 2 months ago and this is what i had to do. What i did is, i took my car to an a/c shop to do a leak test to see if my hoses were in good shape. Since they were in great shape I didn't have to change my hoses. What i end up buying was a new a/c accumilator ( $50) and a new orfice tube ($3). If your a/c compressor is in great shape and working great, you don't need to buy a new one. On my case, i had to buy a remanufactur compressor ($150) because it was shot. i didn't buy a retrofit kit because i had a friend who is a professional on a/c systems and he supplied all the oils, seals and r134 and also had a machine for the conversion. He did the conversion for me for $75. In your case, u do need a retrofit kit which i found in walmart for $35 which supply all the oils and seals u need for the conversion and i recommend taking to a professional to do the conversion, in order to have the a/c work properly. I had my conversion for about 2 months and it blows ice cold and i have no problems whats so ever.
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 03:08 PM
  #6  
Danno's Avatar
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From: Warrington, PA USA
Car: "02 z-28
Engine: LS-1
Transmission: 4L60E
Dat's the way to do it!
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #7  
86BirdSE's Avatar
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird S/E
Engine: LG4 TPI Conversion
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 SLP Posi 10 Bolt
Not to hijack the thread but...

How much refrigerant is needed minus the 8oz oil charge included in the NAPA Retrofit Kit? I'm adding a serpentine A/C to a previously non-A/C car and I don't see any stickers anywhere mentioning how much R-12 was in it.

I know you need 80% of what the R-12 was with 134, just not sure what the spec was for a 1989 TBI Firebird 5.0L with A/C.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 08:04 PM
  #8  
88blkbird's Avatar
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From: New Jersey
Car: 88 Firebird
Engine: 5.0 ltr
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.23's I think
if you buy the manifold gauges as previously mentioned you can charge the system with it operating until your high pressure is approx 200-210 psi and the low side is around 30psi, this is the most accurate way to be sure.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 08:25 PM
  #9  
86BirdSE's Avatar
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 1986 Pontiac Firebird S/E
Engine: LG4 TPI Conversion
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 SLP Posi 10 Bolt
Very good. Thanks.
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