My AC has gotten weaker and weaker over the last several years. Today I had the r12 drained (a whole 3oz) so I could recharge it with r134.

Reading some threads in here I now have a ton of what-if questions. For the moment though, I've decided to at least change the accumulator. In the pic I'm attaching, which port is the high, and which is the low side? Also that is the accumulator in the pic, right?

I saw a link here somewhere to a site with all sorts of info about recharging the AC. I'm going to read through it again and see if there's any other components that must be changed, and which ones only need to be flushed. Or sucked, whatever.

 

im doing similar stuff to my car now..

i believe its no.1 thats the low pressure port.

try tracing the AC line in no.2, if it doesnt lead to the compressor,
its not the low pressure port.
try tracing the line close to no.1, and Im sure it leads to the compressor,
then Im pretty sure thats the low port.

 

Port number one is the low pressure side.

 

Ok, thanks. The paper that came with the retro-fit kit shows things differently than what it is, and neither the haynes nor chilton manuals describe them, hence my confusion.

Now I'll work on tracking down a new accumulator.

 

You might want to remove and inspect the orifice tube ..its located to the left of port 2 in your pic on the line underneath that zip-tie .You will notice two places to put wrenches on.. the top nut will turn while the bottom wont so dont try and turn the bottom one its not supposed to.Make sure you have no freon in it and once its off theres an o-ring sealing the two lines.Might want to replace it.Then with needle nose pliers you will see a plastic slot in the bottom line ..grab it with the pliers and pull up and its about 4-6 inches long and thats the orifice tube if you see any metal shavings on the tube you will need to replace the compressor and the tube(very inexpensive)and flush the lines out.If not..clean it off, put a new o-ring on the lines and put it back together.Go get some 134a freon and make sure you get some PAG oil.at least 8 oz.they sell it mixed (best way) in a can with 134a and replace the accumulator,once you do that you will have to remove a sensor (low pressure switch) on the side of it.Either replace that or that one will need to be adjusted for the 134a..good luck

 

No AC for me for while.

The 134 conversion process began to look like a nightmare, so I returned the 134 kit and went to an AC shop to have it charged with r12, at which point it turned out my compressor is leaking.

I'm not about to pay $1000 to get it fixed when I can get the compressor, dryer, etc and do it myself, and then I may as well go with r134. But seeing as how I'm looking for a job and rebuilding a new engine and trying to decide on a tranny overhaul (another $1000) I'm not going to mess with the ac for now.

 

Hey brothers I have figured out how to upgrade your system to a sanden compressor for under 300 bucks the R4 compressor is crap and everyone knows that. They make sanden compressors with gm block fittings and the adapters are 25 dollars on eBay for the serpentine belt and original air makes a bracket for 87 and older which is more expensive but worth it. Hit me up if you want my parts list also for temperatures above 105 you need a different orifice tube.

 

Im interested in the parts list. Please advise. Thanks.

 

Hi kenbob, I understand that this is an old thread by a couple years...but, I as well am interested in the sanden upgrade for the TPI serpentine system. Could you list the sanden compressor part number? or the whole parts list that you used?
Thanks.

 

I believe this compressor bolts up to factory lines

The red bracket would be the only adapter you need I believe it's available by itself on eBay.