soooo, I had to relocate my fan switch to the intake manifold, passenger-side, right next to the dizzy, cause is was way too close to the header. is this going to cause any issues with turning the fan on and off at the appropriate time?

 

it should not make a deff, as long as the the switch (that opens at it set temp ex 160*,180*) is in the anti. the only think you want to make sure is that the switch is grounded, but if its in the intake you should have no prob.

 

//<86TA>\\, I had a problem with the fan switch grounding properly. The install instructions said not to use any tape or sealer on the threads because the switch may not ground properly. I`ve worked on enough cars to know that when you don`t use sealer when needed, things leak. I did not want to "muscle" the sender in which would make it near impossible to remove later so I used sealer and had no ground so I ran a ground wire to a small hose clamp around the sender and it works great and no leaks.

 

I have an aftermarket intake so I put my fan switch in the spot in the front where the 9th injector temp switch would go.

 

I never thought about the sealer/vs ground before, but its
certainly relevant. Agreed that some kind of sealer is necessary,
and I haven't used anything other than teflon tape, since it's
been available. I used to think that it serves to seal, like other stuff,
such as liquids or paste. But NOO, my smart-aleck son (soon to be
an SAE certified Auto Tech) tells me. The teflon is just a LUBRICANT,
so the pipe threads can be EASILY tightened to the point of self-sealing,
as their intended design. So maybe the teflon won't interfere w/
grounding???

Good luck,
kk

 

Give the tape a try and let me know how it goes, I`d rather not have to run a ground wire if not needed.

 

all of the pipe thread compounds, Teflon tape, or pipe dope are only lubricants to help the threads seal themselves. The tape/dope does not seal the connection. You will also notice that when you remove the fitting, the tape/dope is gone from the threads. Its easy enough to see if you have the switch grounded, just use a continuity tester.

I was just having fan issues, and come to find out my fan switch is shot, but i did check the sensor in the manifold and it did have a good ground despite the pipe dope. Other than that all seems well.

 

When I re-installed this 305 I could not get the factory Plug from the engine ( engine had a mech fan from factory ) I installed the fan sensor in the thermostat housing with no sealer at all. ( There IS teflon tape on the Block-off plug ! ) I never even had to cut/splice the wire because it was long enough to reach.



As you noticed the factory installed this thing right under the exhast manifolds so anywhere farther away has to be better !

 

You can even install the switch in the top of the water pump and it will still work correctly, even though this is the return side of the cooling circuit. I learned this by trial and error, and have put a couple of aftermarket fan switches in the hole in the water pump where the by-pass hose is on some applications, and they work just fine. A small dab of RTV silicone sealer on the threads, will seal the sender, will still have a ground circuit, and it will remove easily if you ever need to change it. Charles