Yes, I did a lot of SEARCHing before posting!

Neither fan comes on. I went under the car to locate the coolant fan switch located between the #6 & 8 spark plugs. I found two. The one directly between the two plugs has no wire attatched and I found no 'green' colored wire in the area. There is a black one with no connector attatched; possibly it?
The second switch looks the same, with an cone shaped plug in. This one is a couple inches below the first switch. This one also has a black wire that is connected.

I tried to jump the first connector at that loose black wire but nothing happened. Do I need to have the ignition turned on to ACC? I found one of the fan relays right by the battery and the driver's side fan came on when I jumped it. Where is the 2nd relay located?? This is a duel fan 5.7 1988 IROC. Please bear with me, as I'm dislexic.

If the coolant fan switch should only have a green wire attatched, how do I trace back to locating the missing wire?

Help is greatly appreciated here as I've spent a couple hours with our SEARCH engine. Nitro-Nicky

 

Its not the lower wire. That one should be the knock sensor.

 

Yeah, lower wire is for knock sensor. You can do a continuity check on the other wire back to the fan relay. This wire provides a ground to the control voltage for the relay. A new connector can be found thru TPI Parts, a sponsor here. May be other sources as well.

Ignition should be in Run, engine can be OFF. Some relays were mounted near the brake booster, not sure about your particular model.

 

Thanks guys, I REALLY appreciate it.

I went down to get it smogged on a 103* day and it was running to hot to complete the test. I've never had it go past 230* max temperature, so never noticed that the fans wern't kicking in-
Again, many-many thanks. Nitro-Nicky

 

Where can one find this connector not in a pigtail version? Some people prefer to crimp their own connectors instead of soldering in a pigtail and having a nasty lump in the wiring harness.

 

You can't. They all come with the switch and the pigtail to connect it to splice into your factory harness. At least all the ones I've ever seen.

 

Which makes no sense. The terminal, the housing, and the wire all originate from different sources, so someone somewhere must have access to them. Splicing wires is a disgusting habit.

 

It goes from the switch to the relay. Pain in the backside to de-loom the harness and much easier to just splice.

 

You can repin it with a delphi 13510096 black housing. Or 13510097 for grey

 

Splicing is a very acceptable repair if done properly - solder and heat shrink is as good as an uncut wire. It also looks the same once it's in the loom.

 

I'm talking about crimping a new pin on the end of the existing wire.

Thank you so much!

I'm all for soldering and heat-shrinking, as it may be a sound connection, but it adds bulk to the wiring, and soldering does make wire brittle. I avoid doing it if I have the option to just get another terminal.