Little pricey $400.00 no part number custom made

 

Dewitts radiators are listed on Summit. Price ranges from $494-$619 for a 2 row.

 

Mine just sprung a leak from the very top. A misty leak, and maybe in a few spots.

Closest to the Radiator cap, front end side of the radiator, just under and in the radiator, near the very very top right under the first weld from the passenger side. Maybe a busted fin? Either way, I can't repair it without removing and having the top removed. It being my daily, I think I'll just run the radiator low for a while.

Any quick way to have this fixed?

 

Awww crap I H8 WWD!! Sorry to hear this!!
IDK if there is an epoxy that would work on aluminum. Possibly give a rad repair shop
a call & ask, then when things work out, take it to them for the correct fix?

 

I would have to drench the epoxy in there, since it's such a tight area. We'll see how the ride home is with it drained a little.

 

You need to have it tig repaired properly to cure the leak-no epoxy will last. Why would a company NOT pressure test their own custom radiators when they are obviously pretty nice quality?!? Northern radiators is based out of Wilmar, MN and has manufacturing facilities in Canada, US and Mexico so its a toss up where they end up getting your radiator from. I'm a dealer for Northern and for the money, I haven't ever had an issue with them.

 

Ride home was fine. Drained it a little and had the fans turn on sooner. For now, as my daily driver, this will have to work.

 

Unfortunately the repair shop (only one recommended to me) Erie Shore Radiators, says they can't fix the leak due to a crack in the header. They offered a new one of the same size/core etc...for $365, and will take a couple of days to get. I'm unsure considering I don't have a part number for this new radiator, who makes it, true sizes or even the look of it. They just said one like it for $365. IDK guys let me know. After all this time this radiator ends up being a $400 PITA POS lol ;P smiles. Used it for a couple months and it's done, that tells me, cheap. Others holding up just means quality assurance is just high enough to be positive in the market. Grr.

So can someone tell me how a leak in the header of a radiator can occur? Maybe real cold to real hot too quick or vice-versa? Trying to figure out what I can do now. Just bought new hoses and fluids for the whole car.

 

I H8,
Man, sorry to hear this!! I am not a cooling wizard or anything like that.
IMHO, as long as you can get a warranty of some type, and the measurements
are as factory, or current dimensions, you * should * be better off than what you had.

I must be one of the lucky few, it seems.

( edit )
For that kind of $ maybe formula1LE can make you one?
Sorry if he's not the guy that makes them, even so, he is knowledgeable
Maybe steer you in a good direction.
Best of luck!!

 

Formula1LE makes cooling fan kits, he doesn't do anything with Radiators themselves that I'm aware of.

There are guys running a stock radiator on 408's without issues. I'd just to back to stock for now unless you're running 500+hp.

 

I need to find something a bit higher quality though. The reason I went with a kick butt radiator was so I didn't have to worry about any issues with heating or plastic tanks from AAP or AZ. In the radiator business is there a bullet proof setup? Or at least an overkill setup? I'd much rather never having to buy another radiator should I get a motor that will need it. I understand what you're saying Ozz, so with that said what do those guys go to after their stock versions just don;t hold anymore to the abuse? Thanks. I'll be back. About half saved for another. We'll see what happens. So far the Saturn is holding up. But for how long? Adios.

 

Gearing up to do the bbc swap in my Camaro I figured I would take another look at their offerings.
They offer a 4 core aluminum for $300 with free shipping.
3 available as of now.
I am pretty sure I will get one.

Specs are:
Core Dimensions (H x W): 17-1/4"h x 26-1/4"w
Overall Dimensions: 20"h x 32"w
Manufacturer Part Number: MC951-P1
4 Row Tank Thickness: 3-1/8"
4 Row Core Thickness: 2-3/4"
Cools up to 850 horses.

As of now I have a 3 core copper/brass that's been in there since some time around 2007 or 2008.

 

Is there a fit difference between a Firebird and Camaro ? I have a 89 Camaro and wanting to install a aluminum 3 core. I live in south Texas and need all the help I can get cooling in 100 degree temps in the summer.
Also, so should i go with a 2 core or a 3 core? It makes no sense to me, but i have heard that 2 core will cool better than a 3 core.

 

There shouldn't be any difference between Firebird and Camaro on the fit. I bought the Champion 3-core for my 89 Camaro a few years ago. The one you want is Part# CC951. Just checked on ebay and the best price for one is $204.95 with free shipping. Here's a link to it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-1992-Chevrolet-Camaro-All-Aluminum-3-Row-Core-Champion-Radiator-CC951-/161751265009?hash=item25a9206ef1&vxp=mtr

 

do they make a 3 core that works with a crossfire 305?

 

It will work with any engine in a Thirdgen.

 

My post my not sound relevent but it is for those exp failures. In the mustang community mishimoto had alot of failures with their radiators. Alot of guys were having issues. Come to find out the mounting of the radiator is a main suspect. Bumps and jarring of the car is easily transferred to the radiator. Old and hard rubber mounts dont cushion the radiator well and isolate it from the body. They released their own new mounts and it seems the problem has been minimized. Check your rubber mounts before install. If they are hard or dry rotted they are no good. Soft and thick is what you want. Something to consider when installing a radiator or trying to diagnose repeated failures.

 

Has anyone had to replace theirs? How long did you have it?

I know this thread is only 6 years old, & that the original poster himself had to replace his after 4 years...

I can dig the benefits of it, but is it worth the (or lack of) reliability?
My car, that I've owned for 10 years, I think still has the stock radiator from 1991...

thanks,

Rafael

 

I had to replace my three core after two years. I went to another eBay special but a two row with the same external dimensions and a "lifetime" warranty. It's the typical Chinese quality, hit or miss.

 

Poll to see if people are still running 1st Champion Radiator or replaced it...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...as-broken.html

 

In all honesty, if you can afford it, or save up the cash, you'd really be far better off going with a trusted, U.S. Made, brand name unit such as a Griffin or Be Cool aluminum radiator. I bought one of the Champion CC951, 3-core aluminum radiators, and it's still just sitting in the box. I've seen all the posts in this thread about all the numerous problems other members have had with them after installing and using one for even short periods of time, and I've basically come to the conclusion that I'm just going to leave my factory radiator in mine until I come up with the funds for the above mentioned Griffin or Be Cool unit. I'll probably just end up posting the Champion unit I have on FleaBay eventually and wash my hands of it!

 

Yeah, I have a 180 stat, EBL P4 with reduced fan turn on temps, air dam a factory aluminum radiator (91 Formula), new water pump, clean system and I REALLY don't want to pay to break a system that is not... When the factory one breaks then I'll go with US made...

 

I installed mine 3 years ago today (Post #383). No problems on a 412", forced induction, 600hp race car.

I also installed one in 2010 on my second gen. No leaks.

Chinese stuff gets better and better every year, so I imagine the stuff coming off the assembly line now is even better.

-- Joe

 

Joe,
I assume neither one of those are daily drivers, correct?

Raf

 

No, track cars. One has a license plate, does that count ?


-- Joe

 

I'm not sure what brand radiator this is, it's Gerrutcamaro's car. It's not a summit brand and looks a little different from the ones posted here on the inlet side. However it does fit excellent in the stock rubber mounts and has proper clearance for the lower coolant hose, unlike the summit radiator. It's all in all a pretty nice piece

 

Tagged for later use

 

Yeah, that sounds like a wise plan to me. To spend a bit more for a U.S. made aluminum radiator that you KNOW will be good quality just seems to make more sense to me. My Champion CC951 unit is really pretty just sitting there unused so far, but yeah, if you have a nice, expensive motor in your car, there's no sense risking messing it up just to save a few bucks on radiator choice.

 

Last I looked the name brand USA made aluminum radiators were at least twice as expensive. Be cool somehow thinks their radiators can cost upwards of $800.

 

Be Cool has 2 that fit our cars....
60015 & 62015... the first being a tad smaller than the Champion...
I checked a lot o messages here, not many part numbers, some said it pretty much slid in, others had to work at it, I'm assuming the size difference...

These are both for manual trans (no oil cooler), First one via summit sells for $539, next one $639... I did see the first one labeled as "discontinued" in a few places... I dropped Be Cool a line to check, and to see if they had a few to liquidate at a savings / group purchase....

 

Yeah, the Be Cool units are pretty damn expensive apparently! The other U.S. made option that may or may not be a bit cheaper would be to check on Griffin possibly. Once again, rock and a hard place money-wise. Either buy the Champion for a great price and risk getting really bad quality, or pay a fortune for one made in the U.S.

 

I know you posted this years ago but its a sticky so hopefully your still around Im hoping my install is as easy as yours ! only thing different on my radiator is the low coolant port is missing. Im not really bothered about that as long as it doesnt throw any codes or anything.

Did your stock fans bolt straight back on too ? ive got a wonderbar on mine and im hoping theres no clearance issues.

 

fans bolted right back on. I'm still using this radiator to cool a 800 horsepower LS1, still works amazing.

 

Ok guys. These radiators are not from China. Champion Radiators are from Lake Elsinore, CA. The 3 row are model number CC951. The 951 is the actual area code to Champion Headquarters in Lake Elsinore. The plant is big and they assemble in house.

 

I am not so sure about that, I believe when I called them they said they have more coming in on a cargo ship as they were from over seas, Now this was about 5 Years ago.

 

Awesome man. Im just running a 5.7 TPI with a few mods but nothing special. My stock rad just doesnt seem to cut it in traffic even with the fans going so hopefully this one will bring my temperature down to a level im happy with.

 

I have read this before on other sites from other people so please don't think I am attacking you in any way, but it just sounds stupid to hear that the area code would depict the build location. Think about it for a minute... What part number do they use on every other radiator they build? Does that mean that each radiator has to be built in a different area code? It just sounds stupid to say I know where this part was built because the company's phone number matches my part number. What happens if the area expands population-wise and needs more area codes? Will they have to change our part number if their phone number changes?

You make a great point about assembly though, they assemble it in house, but ask yourself where do the sub-components come from? I think that's the point of those saying it's Chinese made, is that they suspect the radiator core comes from overseas (though I don't know that it is China specifically).

 

That's what I'm thinking.

 

Champion is in California, assembled there. They might use cores from China.

If the cores were made in an American union shop the radiators would probably cost $2,500 and leak.

-- Joe

 

Got my Champion 3 core in place yesterday. very snug but everything is back together now and i ran the car today.

First indications......disappointing, not the radiator though. the car still warmed up pretty quick as usual, thermostat opened and it just continued to warm steadily. There is probably still air in the system but i did squeeze the top hose a lot while topping the coolant up before starting it and i left the cap off while it was running as usual.

I couldnt run my fans either as my right hand one is now scrubbing against the radiator which i dont understand so i will have to sort that out.

If this turns out to be no different temperature wise than my stock radiator then ive got no idea what my engine is doing.

 

I ran my camaro with a 355 procharged engine on the stock radiator. No condensor. Never had an issue. It may be 3 cores but how big are the cores compared to stock.

 

Where did you buy the adapter for the top transmission cooling line that goes into the radiator? I bought one like yours, but I wasn't able to take off the adapter of the old one.

 

Forgot to update this. Seems my system had air in because the next time i tried it all was well ! the temp slowly comes up when idiling, if im going more than 50mph the temp can be as low as 135 degrees ! and it usually sits around 170-180 just driving normally, heats up in traffic as expected but then i just turn the fans on and it comes back down again. well happy

I didnt have to buy any adaptors at all for the cooling lines ? they just screwed straight in like stock

 

You should use a dedicated transmission cooler.

-- Joe

 

My old radiator had this adapter and I can't find a new one for the new radiator.

 

That is a regular Plumbing part, You can find that at Home depot or local plumbing store.

 

Thanks, bro.

 

I installed one and posted my install video on YouTube http://youtu.be/txo8sgQ6gXk

 

video is private ?

 

Sorry, try it now