heater core bypass
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 31
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From: Reading, Pa
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 305
Transmission: borg warner 5-speed
Axle/Gears: stock
heater core bypass
Hopefully I don't tick some people off by posting another heater core thread but I need a little individual help. I have an 85 IROC and my heater core went. I don't plan on driving it in the winter so i want to bypass it. The problem i'm having is there's a hose that goes from the radiator to the heater core that is one size (15.9 mm I believe) while the one that goes from the heater core to the throttle body is another size (19.1 mm i think). My question is if i take the hose from the radiator right to the throttle body would that work or would i have to somehow splice the 2 hoses together?
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,812
Likes: 109
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: heater core bypass
if thats how its routed, and you can get the hose onto the port on the throttle body, go for it.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,953
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From: Las Vegas
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Re: heater core bypass
Yes, you can run the hose directly from the throttle body to the radiator, but the hoses are different sizes. The hose to the radiator inlet is the larger of the two, 3/4", and the hose from the throttle body exit is 5/8". But there are couplers available to connect a 5/8" hose to a 3/4" hose, so you can couple them together to go from the throttle body directly to the radiator, just like you want to do.
If you want to run one hose, un-coupled, I suppose you can try to get the 5/8" hose from the throttle body onto the radiator nipple, but the radiator nipple is probably plastic, so it can crack or break if you're not careful and try to force the hose and clamp too hard. Or you can try to get the 3/4" hose from the radiator nipple clamped securely enough onto the throttle body nipple so it won't leak, but I don't know if you'll be able to.
But, at least, coupled together, you can make this work easily.
If you want to run one hose, un-coupled, I suppose you can try to get the 5/8" hose from the throttle body onto the radiator nipple, but the radiator nipple is probably plastic, so it can crack or break if you're not careful and try to force the hose and clamp too hard. Or you can try to get the 3/4" hose from the radiator nipple clamped securely enough onto the throttle body nipple so it won't leak, but I don't know if you'll be able to.
But, at least, coupled together, you can make this work easily.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 31
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From: Reading, Pa
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 305
Transmission: borg warner 5-speed
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: heater core bypass
alright thanks for the help. I didn't know they made a coupler like that. I'll have to run out and look for it tomorrow.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
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From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Re: heater core bypass
They are plastic, in the section of the store where the other cooling goodies (radiator caps) are at.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 295
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From: Burnaby, B.C.
Car: '78 GMC Sierra Heavy 1/2
Engine: GMPP ZZ4 Q-Jet
Transmission: 700R4 Stage 2 w/Race Internals
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3:42 Eaton
Re: heater core bypass
Another option is to take a piece of 5/8" heater hose and modify it as follows;
Use a piece around 12" to make it easy to work with...
Use a sharp blade and carefully split the hose length-wise about 3" or better JUST down to the threading. Now, start tearing at it with your bare hands until you separate the outer rubber from the threading. Once you have it peeled back far enough, say 1" or more, you can cut it. Now you have a 5/8" id hose to slip over the 5/8" connection that a 3/4" hose will fit over and clamp it.
You can leave or remove the threading. Removed will be more leak-free.
MUCH better than a plastic adapter
Use a piece around 12" to make it easy to work with...
Use a sharp blade and carefully split the hose length-wise about 3" or better JUST down to the threading. Now, start tearing at it with your bare hands until you separate the outer rubber from the threading. Once you have it peeled back far enough, say 1" or more, you can cut it. Now you have a 5/8" id hose to slip over the 5/8" connection that a 3/4" hose will fit over and clamp it.
You can leave or remove the threading. Removed will be more leak-free.
MUCH better than a plastic adapter
Last edited by Gregzz4; Apr 15, 2011 at 10:24 PM. Reason: additional info
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
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From: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK
Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS
Engine: 305ci V8
Re: heater core bypass
Hey,
Me and my partner have a 1992 Camaro RS and one day noticed a puddle in the passenger side foot well.
We needed a short term fix so decided to bypass the heater matrix by joining the two heater hoses that go into the heater matrix/core together by adding a piece of copper piping inbetween the hoses so that the hoses join back together and tightening the hoses around the pipe with jebilee clips.
Well, We live in England and its bloody cold so now we need heating in the car so we decided to buy a new heater matrix and fit it which we have done but now comes the trouble of undoing the joint pipes.
We undo the jewbilee clips fine but the hoses wont seperate, bare in mind that there is a copper pipe joining them inside.
We have tried pulling them apart but with no joy.
Can anyone give me any ideas how it might be best to get the hoses seperated?
My idea is that we could cut either side of the pipe inside the hoses which may make the hoses too short to reach the matrix so we could buy more heater hose, and join the extra hose on to the ends and attach them with jubilee clips so they can reach the heater matrix but that idea may make it more prone to leaking as there will be more joinings.
My boyfriend believes it may come apart with some prizing but i think we could damage the hoses which means we'd have to remove the two hoses which go from the matrix to the heater Valve and the matrix to the engine.
Can anyone give us any help?
After realising that the hoses wouldnt seperate, we had to put the clips back on to stop any leaking as the car still drives fine without the heater matrix working (its just cold!!) and so when we tested for leaks by turning on the engine, we found water running out of the heater bypass valve!!!! Its one issue after another so have had to buy another one from America for £35 because of the postage >_<
Any help would be great.
Thanks!
Sian
Me and my partner have a 1992 Camaro RS and one day noticed a puddle in the passenger side foot well.
We needed a short term fix so decided to bypass the heater matrix by joining the two heater hoses that go into the heater matrix/core together by adding a piece of copper piping inbetween the hoses so that the hoses join back together and tightening the hoses around the pipe with jebilee clips.
Well, We live in England and its bloody cold so now we need heating in the car so we decided to buy a new heater matrix and fit it which we have done but now comes the trouble of undoing the joint pipes.
We undo the jewbilee clips fine but the hoses wont seperate, bare in mind that there is a copper pipe joining them inside.
We have tried pulling them apart but with no joy.
Can anyone give me any ideas how it might be best to get the hoses seperated?
My idea is that we could cut either side of the pipe inside the hoses which may make the hoses too short to reach the matrix so we could buy more heater hose, and join the extra hose on to the ends and attach them with jubilee clips so they can reach the heater matrix but that idea may make it more prone to leaking as there will be more joinings.
My boyfriend believes it may come apart with some prizing but i think we could damage the hoses which means we'd have to remove the two hoses which go from the matrix to the heater Valve and the matrix to the engine.
Can anyone give us any help?
After realising that the hoses wouldnt seperate, we had to put the clips back on to stop any leaking as the car still drives fine without the heater matrix working (its just cold!!) and so when we tested for leaks by turning on the engine, we found water running out of the heater bypass valve!!!! Its one issue after another so have had to buy another one from America for £35 because of the postage >_<
Any help would be great.
Thanks!
Sian
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Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: Burnaby, B.C.
Car: '78 GMC Sierra Heavy 1/2
Engine: GMPP ZZ4 Q-Jet
Transmission: 700R4 Stage 2 w/Race Internals
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3:42 Eaton
Re: heater core bypass
You need a hose pick. Not the Dental kind but screwdriver size. It looks like the 2 bigger ones on the left.
Hose Pick
You can make your own if you have;
-sacrificial screwdriver
-grinder to blunt tip and then shape it after it's bent
-torch hot enough to heat steel red-hot
-vice for bending the heated metal
You don't want it sharp enough to pierce the hose, just pointed to work it between the hose and pipe. You work it all the way around the pipe to break the bond that heat created.
Then you only need twist the hose and it will break loose.
Hose Pick
You can make your own if you have;
-sacrificial screwdriver
-grinder to blunt tip and then shape it after it's bent
-torch hot enough to heat steel red-hot
-vice for bending the heated metal
You don't want it sharp enough to pierce the hose, just pointed to work it between the hose and pipe. You work it all the way around the pipe to break the bond that heat created.
Then you only need twist the hose and it will break loose.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, West Midlands, UK
Car: 1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS
Engine: 305ci V8
Re: heater core bypass
Oooh! Cool! Thank you! I'll be sure to give it ago :-)
I did think it could have been heat related. Stupid thing lol x
I did think it could have been heat related. Stupid thing lol x
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