The car ran at that temp with no thermostat, the dyno shop installed a 1/2" opening restrictor plate. I have since installed a 180* thermostat.

OK so here is my setup:

- BeCool circle track radiator, this is a dual pass setup becuase the upper hose is on the passenger side. So coolant passes through the core twice on its way out.
- 2 Derhale 12" puller fans. One constant on, the other on at 180*, no shroud but almost all the rad is covered in fan.
- 180* thermostat
- Aluminum ebay waterpump
- I do have an airdam

Anybody have a clue what I should do to drop the temps?
- Try and make a custom shroud?
- Get an oil cooler?
- anything else you guys can think of?

 

Id try and make a shroud so its deff. Pulling all the air thru the Rad.
How much air do those fans flow?

 

Make sure your gauges are reading properly 1st. They could be wrong, verify with a temp gun pointed at the t-stat neck and the factory sending unit areas.
160* t-stat fans on at 176ish off at 166.
Whats the CFM on your fans now? More or less than the factory cfm?
Did your car have dual fans factory? If i remember right they wont fit with the blower?
Does the car run warm in traffic or on the road?

 

I run straight water with two bottles of water wetter and killed off 10 degrees of heat. I have an f2 in a firebird. Just what I did...

 

Each fan pulls 1450 CFM. So a toal of 2900 CFM when both on high, thats how I have them wired for now. One on all the time, the other on when it reaches 180*. I have no idea what the factory dual fan setup ran, I am 99.9% positive that I am pulling more air than I was before. Yes, the car had dual fans from the factory, just curiouse, why does this matter? I don't have a single thing left stock on this car. Not even the carpet is stock, lol.

The car ran hot when it was in dead traffic the most. It would creep up around 210*+. I would like to set the ceiling on temp at 190*. I can try the wetter stuff I guess. That may get me to more like 200*. Still want to get to 190* though.

Ideas? I will try whatever if it makes sense. I really don't want to have a hot running car.

 

Kind of curious as to what kind of "ebay" pump you're using. It's probably fine, but I'm still wondering. Have a link?

I do agree, though. Verify your gauges are spot on first, then start looking at things more indepth. Almost made that mistake last time, heh.

 

I was just wondering about the fans.. if your not cooling at idle then your rad isn't working or you have a low airflow problem. (id bet on airflow)
Check your guages and make sure they are correct b4 we get to far.. If they are factory..

 

more ignition timing at part throttle when you are off the boost will help it to run cooler.. the trick is making that extra timing go away when the boost starts to build.

 

I run Autometer everything. I will take the advice and verify the temps first, maybe try and make a shroud just for fun. The will take me a couple weeks to get to, I will post back results then. Thanks

 

These cars were designed to run at 210, that's nothing out of the ordinary at all. Verify your gauges as was mentioned. I have a fan switch that turns "on" when the temp hits 195. When it does this, my gauge reads almost 220.

 

A lower temp. thermostat does nothing, all the stat does is control the minimum hot operatng temperature. ONce it's open it's open. The temps still rising is caused by a lack of cooling system efficiency, so you need to either get more cold air flow through the core, a bigger/better core, more efficient fans or check that your system is not failing somewhere like a missing air dam, clogged up rad etc.

 

Thanks Twin_Turbo. I am aware of those things. My car doesn't have anything stock and it all has less than 100 miles on anything. I know how a cooling system works, I just would like advice as to how to make my, already aftermarket everything, run cooler.

Like I said I will get a second temp sensor and and check that way. Also I will see if having that T-stat in there helps as opposed to the restrictor. I will also try to make a shroud.

Thanks for the ideas everyone. Would adding an oil cooler help? At first thought I think yes, but then I think a bit more and your oil want to be hot, its your coolant that you want cool. There are a ton of articles about this online. That is why I think oil coolers are more for the racecar guys.

 

Oil coolers keep the oil cool, thus keeping it's viscosity intact. the hotter oil gets, the worse its lubricatoin ability becomes. So keeping it cool is actualy better. When "too cold" comes into play, is more during engine start when sludgy cold oil doesn't circulate. It's why they have block heaters in cold weather states.

 

I use to run dual 12" aftermarket fans and it wouldnt keep my car cool. I switched to a single 16" fan with shroud off a 96 Lincoln Mark VIII. That fan moves a ton of air. You have to run 50 amp fuse with it because it draws that much power, but it really moves a lot of air. I can idle around now on a 100 degree day in stop and go traffic and the temp never goes above 195.

 

I'm having the exact same "problem"


I'm at about 210-220 and have pretty much the same cooling set up and a ysi charger. I'm going more part throttle timing as well as it is very low now. I think that is part of my issue!

 

I bought some stuff from royal purple that helps radiator temps. I haven't dropped it in yet as I've been busy with everything else, but you could try that. It's a radiator additive.

 

I don't know what Royal Purple calls it, but I bought something called "Water wetter", does the same thing. Supposed to keep the car temps 10* cooler or something. It seems to work alright.

 

I thought I would chime in, I also run an F1A with stock radiator, flex-a-lite dual electric fans and an electric water pump. I never overheat even at the track. The hottest it gets is going up this steep hill on the highway nearby which I may hit 200, otherwise its always 170-180

 

Can you post more details?
Senor? Location? Thermo? Fan on and off temps? Any and all details if possible. I would love to run that cool.

 

Stock GM sensor in the front of the intake manifold by the thermostat housing.
180 degree stat.
Fan on at 180 off at 170.

with these exact fans ( I believe)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-340/

I programmed the fans to come on/off at those exact temps using the holley HP EFI program to trigger the relay for them at the temperatures stated above which is fed to the ECU by the stock GM style sensor.

 

Interesting. I wonder why mine is running so hot. Can you post pics about your motor? Sounds like I am trying to run around the same amount of psi as you, but with an F1. What size pulley are you running and what rib belt. I am trying to run a 3.40" with a 12 rib and have massive belt slip.

Thanks for any pointers.