OK yes I search.
I replaced the compressor the dryer and the orifice tube. I flushed out the entire system. I added the correct amount of oil (the compressor rebuild shop did) vacuumed it down and added the refrigerant but it leaked almost as fast as I put it in. I had added dye but no leaks were detected under the hood so I want to rep[lace the evaporator core and condenser.
I would like step by step instructions on how tho remove the evaporator core.
Thanks for any replies
Andy

 

I fought a similar problems for several years, though the leak was much slower. I converted to 134 and reconverted to 12, I replaced this and that and the other thing. I had the car sniffed and dyed. Finally, I was told by one shop that the car had an untraceable leak. Long story short, the condenser was leaking on the backside. I replaced it last summer and all's been good--and cold.

Best of luck with an annoying issue.

JamesC

 

Step 1: Rotate all the hardware holding it in fully CCW until loose.

There's no Step 2.



The entire evap housing, basically every single piece of the HVAC system in the engine compartment, comes out as an assembly, including the blower motor. In fact if the radiator is out, you can even remove the compressor, lines, and condenser all at the same time with the evap, with the refrigerant still in the system, without having to crack open a single line or fitting. (Go to a vehicle assembly plant sometime and watch how a car, ANY kind of one, is put together: it'll help you understand how to take one back apart.) There's about 7 hardwares; about 4 or 5 are accessible from the engine side of the firewall, the other 2 or 3 from the cabin side. They're all fairly large and around the very edge of the housing. Takes literally about 2 minutes from start to finish.

Then once the whole thing is out and laying on the ground, there's about 12 or 15 much smaller hardwares around the top that hold the 2 halves of it together.

Last time I needed an evap core, I walked up to the junkyard counter at 4:55; told them what I wanted and had to argue with them a bit about how long I'd need to get it; went on out onto the lot and found a car with one; had it out and back up to the counter to pay for it, before the yard closed at 5:00.

 

First wait till your off work Friday afternoon and bring home an extra couple of cases of your favorite beer. When you get home let the car cool off and drain the water. Then remove the heater core hoses from the firewall that you cannot get to untill you drink four beers. Then remove the passenger seat so you can lay down and get to the ductwork and remove it to expose the heater core and drink four more beers. Next, try and remove the ductwork and realize that it will not quite break loose and that there is another screw holding it from the back that you cannot see or get to and drink six beers for this learning experience. Next you find the screw and get it out and finally get the heater core out after a lot of twisting and colorfull language and promising yourself that will find the engineer who engineered this torture device and pay him a visit. Next go to NAPA and get a new core, hoses and antifreeze and come home and try and fit the new core in the housing and realize that it doesn't quite fit and drink 4 more beers. While trying for the 5th time to get the core in its position it finally goes in and the pipes fit through the firewall like they are supposed to and you decide you are too tired to go see the engineer and let him see your magnum caliber problem solver and drink six beers because you know you never deserved it more. Next try and get heater core hoses back on at the firewall and try and get clamps tight with no room at all for tightening anything. Next fill it with water and antifreeze, crank it up and realize that your new core is leaking and you have to do it all over again.
This is how mine went only without the beer but you know what they say about hindsite.

 

I need the AC evaporator core not the heater core.

 

He obviously started helping you after a fe of those beers

 

Remove the lines from the evap connections.

Remove the 10mm bolts and nuts holding it to the firewall.

Remove the 1 or 2 10mm bolts behind the firewall that go through it and into the evap box.

Pull it out, its gonna be stuck to the firewall a little from sealing tape.

 

The evaporator core is removed from the engine compartment. You remove the cover over it which is held down by about 6? 7mm bolt screws and two 10mm at the firewall on either end of it. The only pain in the rear is making sure you dont drop any. The wiring needs to be moved to the side. I'll take a picture tonight to give you an idea.

 

The last post describes the hard way. Don't do that.

The easy way is to remove the whole evap housing intact like the rest of us have told you, THEN disassemble it.

 

How is that the hard way if on the 1987 Chevrolet Camaro manual states thats the way to remove the evaporator only. Why take everything apart if he is only going to removed the evaporator?

 

By being ... harder than the EASY way.

I've done it both ways. I did it the way you posted the first time, then wised up and did it THE RIGHT way, namely, the way the car WAS PUT TOGETHER, every time after that. Takes a fraction of the time to do it the way I posted, as well as allowing a superior finished product.

Not much different from, say, pulling a motor to rebuild it.

Think of it this way, since you've evidently never been to a car assembly plant and WATCHED A CAR BEING BUILT:

A car moves down the production line from one workstation to the next. At each workstation they add something or otherwise perform a task. The car spends what we mfg engrs call the "takt time" at each workstation; it's between 30 seconds and 2 minutes on most lines. THINK ABOUT THAT... 2 minutes to install the dash, 2 minutes to put in the A/C, 2 minutes to put in the steering column, 2 minutes to put in the front seats, and so on. You really should go visit an assembly plant and see how it's done. Truly an eye-opening experience for someone who wishes to be a hobbyist with the minimum effort.

Each of those major sub-assy's is built in its own plant, apart from the car; THEN assembled into the car AS A COMPLETED UNIT.

That's why it's ALWAYS easier to work on ANY of them if you take it out of the car FIRST, breaking the link between it and the rest of the car where the factory did. Like as I described, lifting the ENTIRE air cond assy out of the car, INTACT, with the lines, comp, cond, & evap ALL AS A UNIT (though that might not be easier if only one chunk of it needs work, such as the evap housing; break the link at the lines).

Try it sometime instead of arguing about it, you'll learn. Learning is your friend. Makes you look smarter on the Internet than ... the alternative.

 

Before you go through the agony of removing and replacing a good part (There are the obvious bolts and nuts on the firewall and a hidden one back behind the distributor) All the other the previous posters is correct. Patience is needed.
If it is leaking as fast as you say it is, you should be able to find it. Speaking from 30 years in the HVAC industry. Put the car in a quiet area (garage) close the door, use a sniffer to locate the leak (Find a local hvac guy with a leak detector, buy him the beer) Sounds like you have a compressor with a bad shaft seat or a pinched "O" ring during replacement. At this point in time pumping it up to 100 plus pounds of compressed air should allow you to hear it or at least soap bubble everything to locate the leak.

 

Well for the sake of posting pictures, it was easier to service the evaporator for me this way.

Pic 1- After I evacuated the freon, removed all pressure from the system and the accumulator (and broke the top hose connector of the evaporator) remove the (6) 7mm head bolt screws and the two 10mm bolts that go to the firewall. Also, i removed an additional (4) 7mm bolt screws that hold the temp coil from the cover and wire retainer on the cover.

Pic 2- Just a different perspective.

Pic 3- You can see the evaporator core through where I removed the coil temp unit.

 

Pic 4- After all the bolt screws are removed, carefully move the wire harness below where the cover seals. And forgot to mention, you will have to move the cowl to fender brace (if equiped) to clear the cover.

Pic 5- The actual cover removed.

Pic 6- The evaporator core exposed. Note: I removed the metal screen that was attached to the evaporator core and the foam that was attached to the front of the core which prevents engine heat and gases from getting into the box.

 

Pic 7- The empty box waiting for a new evaporator core. This would be a good time to vacuum out all debris that has collected over the years and blow some compressed air through the condensation drain hole.

Pic 8. The damaged core where I broke off the connector to the accumulator and you can see some foam left where I removed it just in case the new one doesn't come with it.

 

I agree with you on the speed of a prouction line in the installation of components. But most of us are novices and are working from our own garage or backyards. GM did leave provisions on our cars where it was not necessary to remove an entire unit, when you can just remove a cover to a part that will require service more than others.

 

Thanks for the pictures. It makes feel more confident about doing the job. I was so afraid I would have to do this from under the dash.
What happened to your evaporator looks like the top tube was ripped in half.

 

When I was trying to loosen the nut that holds the top part of the accumulator, I over did it and broke it off. After 25 plus years of not touching that attaching nut, guess it didn't want to come off easy.

 

Let us know how yours turns out.

 

Thanks for the help. I started tearing it down yesterday. When I removed the bottom tube that connects to the condenser it was incompletely clogged. I will have to flush it before I'm done. Anyway I'm not only going to replace the evap core but also the condenser, dryer, and orifice. l ready have a new compressor. I've tried to fix the AC a couple of times already, so this time I'm all in.

 

I did it the (hard way) which to me at least is a lot easier than removing the entire housing. I could only see the top 2 screws on the evap housing and I don't want to crawl around under the dash.

It only took an hour or so for me and I've never done it before. I'm sure I could do it much faster now.

 

When you get it back together are you going back to R-12 or switching to R134A or something else?

 

I'm going to go with R134A. I can get 6 cans for $45 on eBay now, maybe I'll get more once everything is up and running. I have a couple of friends in the local club using it and it seems find. R12 is hard to find and too expensive.

 

I don't know whether the area of the country makes a difference or not, but I've never experienced any trouble whatsoever in finding R12--even when I was living in a town of 1800. More expensive, yes.

JamesC

 

Doesn't matter where you're from unless Mexico, can't buy it legally without being EPA certified. Actual I am certified unless it's expired still 12 cans for $177 and climbing, since do longer be manufactured I will stick with R134A and it won't be log before that's obsolete. GM hasn't used it for a year and it's banned in Europe.

*You must be EPA certified to purchase this product and show proof before item will be shipped*

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IG-LO-Freon-...bd0892&vxp=mtr

 

As I understand, it doesn't take much to get the certification. That being said, I pick up cans of R134A whenever I see it on a clearance table or on sale. I was able to buy a 12 can case earlier this summer at Sam's for $68. The same case is a little over $100 now only 3 months later and I expect it to go up even more. R134A may not be as effective in 100 degree weather as R-12 but it still cools the car and I can refill it myself. My R-134A "stash" will last me a long time. Good luck with your rebuild.

 

I converted to 134 for awhile but it wasn't my cup of tea--though many are quite satisfied with it. At this point I'm not terribly concerned about R12 availability. Each to his own.

Best of luck with your project,

JamesC

 

OK so I removed the top of the evaporartor cover and thr=e evaporator itself. The housing for the evaprator and the fan motor were slightly rusty 9surface rusr=t almost could bush it off with your./Anyway I decided since I had it this far apart I was go ahead and remove the entire housing includeing the heater housing and clean and paint them.
Problem is I must have missed a bolt somewhere. I remove 3 long bolts from the inside firewall, and all the ones I can see or reach from under hood. There must be one I'm missing maybe something near the distributor. or under the housing that I can not see. what do think, Ant help is appreciated.