ok so my electric fan is being a bitch and its the coolent switch in the head, no idea why its not grounding like it should but anywas now im thinking I want a mechanical fan. so that's the point of the poll fix the electric crap or go with the more reliable mechanical fan..


if I do go mechanical fan what do I need for it, what fan blades, clutch, shroud? (the electric crap I will trade/sell since other then the switch it works as it should)

 

if you are satisfied with the performance of the electric fan when it works,you could rig up a different thermostat arrangement that is more reliable such as electronic or capillary tube type-fixed an '89 firebird v6 with that last style,installed in the upper radiator hose. If you want to try a mechanical fan,look at 91-93 LO3 caprice clutch fan(I think those are 18.5") and the shroud off of 82-85 v8 Camaro-A/C and coolant hoses will need reworked some.The mechanical fan will have some advantages and disadvantages VS electric but will be likely 100%reliable

 

The fans worked fine from the factory....... Replacing the switch is less trouble than re-working everything else, Using any kind of sealers on the switch threads can cause grounding issues.....

 

Especially if there is "too much" teflon tape on it. I ran into this problem when I recently replaced my switch.

 

At what temp is the switch you have supposed to turn on ? If you can't get that one to work then you could use an adjustable switch. You could just ground the wire that's on the switch you have now and install the new controller box on that line. I placed my probe just under the upper radiator hose between the fins. Setting the controller to the temp you want(mines set at 190* with a 180* thermostat.)Is easy. Just warm the car up until it gets to the temp you want and at that time turn the dial on the switch slowly until it comes on..,done.
Heres the switch = http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...267187_69565_0_

 

Your belief aside, have you followed the troubleshooting guide to verify it's actually the switch?

 

Ya its the switch bc if i ground the wire to the switch fans kick on when car is running. I didnt add any teflon tape bc it was prewraped but if it was to much then ya thats my problem im think now. And that switch is harder to get to then replacing the electric fan. Would like the fan to kick on cooler then 225 but its fine for now, as its all factory.

 

Do you have headers? If so, then it's relatively easy to get to, especially from underneath.

 

No the factory exhaust manifolds with a/c. Ya its easy i just dont want to jack the car up.

 

 

If you fallow this simple suggestion you will have everything you are looking for and the main selling point is being able to set the temperature to where you want by turning a **** .

If you look at the rear controller you will see how you wire it in. One side of the grounded wire is plugged in and the other side of the grounded wire is plugged in putting the controller in the middle. Then insert the probe in the radiator preferably as close to the upper hose as you can. Other than setting the temperature you are done. The directions that come with it as far as Im concerned are incomplete and incorrect.

I have two of them controlling a primary and secondary fan.

Side note = anyone with a switch in the head that wants to be able to adjust there fan temp. can do this. ( Other than the Taurus fan install. It has a high amp draw that requires heaver wiring than stock and uses a completely independent circuit )

 

Ya that does look good. I might do that bc thats been one of the bigs things for me is the high temp it gets to before the fan kicks on.

Ron i see you have a car alarm, i need to install mine and was wondering can you pm me the location of the shock censor? Imbhaving trouble finding a good spot, well it a viper alarm so the shock censor and brain are the same

 

p/n sw505.
fan switch that closes around 215 (tpi is 220 for ecm fan control) over the oe temp of 238

 

See, now what I'm running is primary fan on at 190* with a backup fan that kicks on at 200* with a 180* thermostat.
I also have an engine oil cooler that starts flowing at 180* and a constant flow transmission cooler. All of that to maintain approximately a 190*/200* temp.on the gage..And it does. If my car started to get into the 220 range (, even though GM built them to run even higher) I start to get nervous. IMO its to hot.

 

Now thats the pn i need thx. I agree 220 seems to hot, 200 seems more reasonable