Found a place close to where I live. They pressure tested the system and evacuated it. In my case, they found a leak on the switch that is screwed onto the dehydrator. Other than that and some new R12, (yes they had it and it was pricy compared to R134) but I felt it was worth it. Close to 300 bucks for everything for the entire service.

I was going to convert it to R134 but since it runs at a higher pressure, I figured a new condensor would have been required. Some say they don't need it and some say they did. I didn't want to take that chance.

 

UPDATE

It was great driving around with my better half on our date with air conditioning last Thursday. That changed the next morning. I was going to take my car out for a nice 4th of July drive up Pacific Coast Highway when I noticed the decent sized puddle of engine oil on the garage floor.

I'm guessing its from the bottom of the timing chain cover that just decided to go all the way or the entire oil pan gasket. Either way, have not had a chance to get under the car to check since its been too hot out here in L.A.

But at least the air conditioner works.

 

Bummer. Let us know what happened.

 

My initial diagnosis of the oil leak was totally incorrect. The oil pan gasket is still sealing fine, the timing chain cover still leaks a bit from the bottom as it has been.

Went into the garage with my mini l.e.d. Maglite and searched around the engine compartment at valve covers, heads, and then it hit me (not the hood). I pointed the light at the oil pressure sending unit by the distributor and there it was. The oil leak. Totally made sense especially where the location of the oil was puddling and the sender unit. Just to make sure, I turned on my car and the oil pressure gauge was all out of whack.

I don't have to lift the car and remove the pan and all the other stuff. Unluckly, now have to carefully degrease the back of the engine block and underneath it.

 

Well that's good news.

 

Yes it is. But like I said, have to clean up the underside and back of the engine block now from its formally clean state. Hope the BWD oil pressure switch I ordered will last me a while. Even though it has some sealant on the threads, some people on here were mentioning to add more teflon?

 

I don't guess it would hurt. I'm not sure how effective it is against oil. I hear ya on the cleanup. I hate a messy engine.

 

I was looking on You Tube for some effective degreasers. My engine was clean before this oil leak. So there are three front runners that I am considering on buying. 1. Simple Green concentrate 2. Holy Cow cleaner 3. Mean Green cleaner.

 

Replaced the oil pressure sender. Fixed the problem and now my gauge is working fine.

Now as far as the A/C is concerned, the clutch on the compressor remains engaged constantly when on max, normal, and bi-level. It does turn off when on vent, heater and goes back on when on defrost. I thought it's supposed to go off and on.

 

 

Gonna let it run again and keep an eye on it. If it still does it, back to the A/C shop.