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wanting to run hot in traffic, turn on ac and temp guage drops, it causes fans to kick on and drop temps
im thinking wiring fan direct, I have black and black with red stripe wire, whats hot wire?
also, this a good idea to run constant off ignition hot switch?
Does the fan turn on when it's supposed to with the air off? (235° more or less) Does the temp then drop to the point where the fan turns back off? (210° or so) It should be able to do that all day long, or until it runs out of gas... sit there and idle; temp rises to 235°; fan comes on; temp comes down; temp reaches 210°ish; fan turns off; temp rises... over and over and over and over. Should run a full cycle (heat, fan on, cool, fan-off, …) about every 4 minutes or so. If it does that, then everything is working right, and you need to just leave it alone and not try to "improve" it.
havnt let it get past 220, when it gets to 220, I turn on the ac, that activates the fans, then drops around 180, 220 is hot, my 97 1500hd runs constant 180-190, never hits 200
I was thinking it shouldn't be 220, since thermostats range between 170-190..... average running temps
havnt let it get past 220, when it gets to 220, I turn on the ac, that activates the fans, then drops around 180, 220 is hot, my 97 1500hd runs constant 180-190, never hits 200
I was thinking it shouldn't be 220, since thermostats range between 170-190..... average running temps
you could put in a new fan switch to have it activate at a cooler temperature. I'm putting in the SW505 soon which should kick on at 213°F. The SW555 from the TTA activates at 204°.
ok, thanks for the info....
id still like to keep it around 170-190 if possible, this truck has 300k miles, always runs 180-190 on guage, and its 305 vortec… ran like this for years
1997 Chevrolet Cheyenne k1500 f44 HD heavy duty half ton 305 vortec 5speed 4x4 373s 33x1150s
Last edited by Miz&Mrs; 03-30-2019 at 08:28 PM.
Reason: edit text
ok, thanks for the info....
id still like to keep it around 170-190 if possible, this truck has 300k miles, always runs 180-190 on guage, and its 305 vortec… ran like this for years
1997 Chevrolet Cheyenne k1500 f44 HD heavy duty half ton 305 vortec 5speed 4x4 373s 33x1150s
Also Make sure the gauge on your truck is actually accurate. In reality it might be running hotter than it shows.
ill check on that, but truck gauges are pretty accurate, have dual set of mechanical gauges under the hood, temp/oil/voltage...
fan works great, and keeps temps around 180 when ac is on, with ac off it runs normal until sitting at red lights, then itll get up around 220.... by then I turn on ac to cool it off … it almost makes fans kick on instantly when u turn on the ac
ill check on that, but truck gauges are pretty accurate, have dual set of mechanical gauges under the hood, temp/oil/voltage...
fan works great, and keeps temps around 180 when ac is on, with ac off it runs normal until sitting at red lights, then itll get up around 220.... by then I turn on ac to cool it off … it almost makes fans kick on instantly when u turn on the ac
Programmable fan controller is your best bet then. Though I doubt you would notice a difference between the 204 degree on of the SW555 and programming something to kick on at 180-190.
You know better than the engineers who built your vehicle, what temp it needs to be at? You're an engineer or something?
This is of course, a 82-92 Camaro/Firebird? I'm not sure the photo shows any of the options available on any of the vehicles exclusive to this site?
yeah, something like that, when it runs 180ish constantly, and only gets around 220 when sitting in traffic..... however technical u want to get like I said before, I want it running like when cruising around 180...
did i help u understand now? or maybe go give another post your tech advice, cause u sure aint no help for me...
just wire in a manual switch to turn on the fan when you want it to run below the normal turn on temp-splice an extra wire into the thermostatic fan switch lead(in the RH head,toward the back)leaving the thermostatic switch connected,and connect one side of the manual switch to the added wire,the other side of switch to ground.If you have TBI engine,you could install belt driven fan to run at temps like the truck upthread -belter fan will have advantages and disadvantages vs the electric fan
just wire in a manual switch to turn on the fan when you want it to run below the normal turn on temp-splice an extra wire into the thermostatic fan switch lead(in the RH head,toward the back)leaving the thermostatic switch connected,and connect one side of the manual switch to the added wire,the other side of switch to ground.If you have TBI engine,you could install belt driven fan to run at temps like the truck upthread -belter fan will have advantages and disadvantages vs the electric fan
well today I noticed my radiator is split on plastic tanks, thinking about ordering this one, while swapping ill probabally just wire the fan to a switch, or ignition hot wire.... don't get me wrong, it never has overheated, and only leaked out a half gallon or so before I noticed split, but fans just don't want to kick on when supposed to, unless the air conditioning is running...
think ill go this solid aluminum 3 row style, anybody have one ? offer a little feedback????
Radiator looks like typical Ebay china junk-you might get ok results,but our cars deserve better than that stuff...With any fabricated tank aftermarket radiator,don't expect direct fit even if they say it does...For the fan,just grounding the temp switch lead with a manual switch is easy and everything will still work normally when manual in off position.If you create a new fan circuit,it will have to handle fan startup loads of ~ 30 amps and ~10-12 running amps
Radiator looks like typical Ebay china junk-you might get ok results,but our cars deserve better than that stuff...With any fabricated tank aftermarket radiator,don't expect direct fit even if they say it does...For the fan,just grounding the temp switch lead with a manual switch is easy and everything will still work normally when manual in off position.If you create a new fan circuit,it will have to handle fan startup loads of ~ 30 amps and ~10-12 running amps
so u think original replacement would be better radiator?
For stockish car,OEM replacement would be easiest by far.I don't know much about parts store replacement radiators except ~95% are Chinese...I think Visteon and possibly some Northern might be made in North America.
For stockish car,OEM replacement would be easiest by far.I don't know much about parts store replacement radiators except ~95% are Chinese...I think Visteon and possibly some Northern might be made in North America.
think im going this route, with dual 12in fans, should work well being all stock for now
If you have a '730 ECM and the ability to program the values for it, you can get computer control of the secondary fan by simply adding a wire from pin F8 to pin D12, with no modification of the other wiring necessary. If you need more information about this I can help find some old topics about it, but just wanted to throw it out there as an option if you already have the ability to program the ECM.
If you have a '730 ECM and the ability to program the values for it, you can get computer control of the secondary fan by simply adding a wire from pin F8 to pin D12, with no modification of the other wiring necessary. If you need more information about this I can help find some old topics about it, but just wanted to throw it out there as an option if you already have the ability to program the ECM.
not sure I want to do all that, future plans are to swap to a 350 or 383, holley pro flow injection, and set up for pro touring.... but that's a year or 2 away.... staying a driver till then...
03-30-2019, 04:48 PM
