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So the car has been sitting since Late November and it’s a fairly low mile car that’s been garaged it’s whole life. I’ve had it 6 years now and it hasn’t leaked a damned thing.
I had started the car over the winter when it was warm and let it run.. I pulled it out and revved the motor a few times and got it up to temp. Just didn’t want the valve seals to go on it from sitting.
Pulled the car out a couple days ago and noticed the green fluid on my tarp about the size of a quarter or a little bigger.
Put the car up on ramps since it hit the 60s and put a light underneath.
I saw a run on a pipe running right near where the passenger exhaust runs and near the smog pipe. I followed the run up the pipe and it looks like it’s coming from a small hose clamped onto the pipe...
From the top you can see the clamp down next to the transmission dipstick, but it’s too far down to touch with your finger...
Anyone know how to get to that hose? I’m thinking I have to move the hose that goes to the heater core and take the ignition coil out. I don’t think you could get it from underneath because it’s too close to the exhaust...
I believe it’s this pipe... It’s under and to the left of the ignition coil and down low to the left of the transmission dipstick...
There’s no room in there.. I don’t think it’s the heater core because my passenger compartment is bone dry with no smell or steam inside the car... I think either that little hose has a split or just needs to be tightened up.. Just need to get to it!
Could be the pipe. Could be the hose. But it's probably your heater core that's actually leaking. Try tightening the clamp (socket + joints/extensions as needed), but plan for the worst.
First of all, why would anyone put their convertible away for winter? I don't get it. Huh. Anyway, I'm not one to judge. Lol. I don't think it's the core since the leak is running down the hose. Heater core leaks usually invade the passenger foot area (gravity's a bitch). It might be running down from the other end of the hose at the heater core connection. Those spots are tough but not impossible. I dealt with them using 1/4" drive extensions and lots of angles. It might even help to get at it from below. I also doubt it is your metal pipe going to the front of the car. That thing is pretty solid and I'll bet you keep your coolant fresh. You do use GM coolant only, right?
It helps a lot to remove the coil, EGR solenoid, and distributor. If I had to do it again, I would do that to access those hoses. On the other hand it is very likely that leak will seal itself shortly.
Edit: 4th time. I'm pretty sure the leak is from the lower hose connection. The coolant would not track along the tube if it was above that point. It's coming out between the hose and the tube and running along the tube. Tighten it up and I'll bet your good to go. Damn Lagunitas makes good IPAs!
Last edited by Tootie Pang; Mar 5, 2020 at 08:44 PM.
It was hard to get a good pic but it looked like there was a drip coming out of the bottom of the hose where it was clamped on the pipe and then there’s a thin run line all the way down the pipe to where it bends and that’s where it’s dripping on the ground...
I don’t see how I could get it from underneath with the exhaust in the way...
I think with just the coil and the other hose out of the way I could get something on it and tighten it...
I’ve done a heater core in my 87 and it sucked... hoping that’s not it.. It doesn’t look like it... I didn’t think they leak from the engine bay..
Of course when a hose comes loose or goes bad it’s like the worst one to get to!
I’ll have to figure out how to tighten that heater clamp during “quarantine”
Had a drip of trans fluid too... The pan bolts were not very tight for whatever reason... tightened those up and that seems to have stopped too.. Dipstick still read full and looked and smelled fine... Not like I’ve beat on the car or anything... Everything’s just 30+ years old under there...
Gotta be careful on the trans pan. The early gaskets are cork. Thus they have the same problem as cork valve cover gaskets. They get hard and compressed, and eventually the bolts get loose and you get a leak. Overtightening the bolts just makes it worse. Some of the replacement filters used a rubber gasket, which just needs to be snugg-ish. The later GM gaskets are a sorta hybrid, coated cork, that is in theory anyway, removable/reusable. Again you don't want to over tighten the bolts. If you had to tighten the screws, it's probably a good idea to have another gasket handy. It's a good indicator the gasket has failed or is going to fail.
Thanks Drew, yeah I didn’t tighten them too much and was very careful... I’m sure I need to do that gasket, I was just glad the wetspot stopped for now... I’ll have to keep an eye on it until I get a chance to do that.. I wouldn’t be surprised if the gasket is original...