so i purchase the LC-1 wideband kit from innovate motorsports, and i just recieved it today. kits looks great! great quality... but i have a couple of questions. the kit is the #3796 from summit but i got it from 196$.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3796/

1.) the kit came with an "extended bung with plug"(part #3764) this 02 bung is much longer than a regular 02 bung. its so long that it acutally covers the entire bosch sensor tip. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3764/ tell me why they would have done this? now should i use the extended bung or use a regular stainless 02 bung that i purchased today? by the way the regular bung thats suppose to be in the kit is part# 3735.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/INN-3735/

2.) the manual with the wiring can get pretty confusing but im leaning towards connecting the wideband on the pass side instead of the driver side. Im running headman LTs with dual 3" exhaust. I have the stock 02 bung welded in the driver header collector... but i have more room on the pass side to mount the sensor, is there any problem doing this? is there a reason to stick to the driver side vs the passenger side?

3.) will i be able to datalog with the LC-1 with my tunerpro RT? i have all the moates stuff (ALDL extreme, G1, tunerpro RT). it seems like i cant with the supplied serial outputs (2 of them) but im definitly gona run it with the gauge all the time and tune it as need be. the car runs great but its rich.

 

1.) this is just a heat issue. If you must place the bung real close then extender is recommended.

2.) Only down side to this is possibly at low throttle levels you can see some discrepancy in AFR due to air flow within the intake manifold.
At WOT when the WB is really needed, the problem of different readings "seems" to go away in the cases I've read about anyway. This appears to happen with aftermarket manifolds like the Superram etc. The differences are not way off but it can make you think about what is going on.
Search on "Split BLM" to see some discussions and results.

3.) Depends on the mask and software if someone has made a patch to allow logging or not.
There are a few "trick" ways by using a input that is no longer connected for something that was existing and using the standard datastream to view it. LC-1 is linear output so a simple scale factor can be used in the ADS file.

 

My kit did not come with that lower priced longer bung. They did offer opt SS version however and I think was $80? It appears they are anticipating issues developing so they now supply longer bung.

JP:1.) this is just a heat issue. If you must place the bung real close then extender is recommended.

another opinion to the probable fact it is sensitive to heat

 

so here i am with a regular SS short bung and the supplied longer extender bung... which do i install? im installing it right after the pass side LT header collector on the headman Sbend header extension. shorty or extended?

 

If you have clearance put in the longer. remember the sensor takes up room as well at 9 oclock to 3

 

yea im gona try to put it in at 3 oclock since that seems to be the best for me i think. gona look at it more. so the deep bung in it is!

 

I ran the short bung on my car, just after the collector in my y pipe with sensor at 3 o'clock. never had a problem. I now have it very close to my turbo down pipe exit out the turbine. Gases are very hot there but i havent had a problem yet that I can tell. I will have to look. Air fuels seem realistic but need to try a new sensor to make sure this one aint broke

IF your down by the collector i wouldnt worry about heat. Keep a short bung to get the tip into the exhaust stream to get best reading.

If you ran 730 ecm and code 59 but setup for n/a, you can wire in the LC1 output to datalog with it. I do this with my turbo car.

If you have 6E MAF, then i think there was a bin/xdf file written to datalog with wideband input. need to wire it into the ecm i believe inplace of stock narrow band. I remember reading the thread but do not know if it works or not

 

LC-1 gets an error whrn EGT is 950+ Celcius ~1742F

best regards

 

thanks orr, i just got off the phone with filiepe at innovate motorsports, he said i should be fine with the short bung at the collector. he said the extended bung is to "protect the sensor" and to help with heat so in a turbo application i would def run the deep bung like in your situation orr lol. and at 80$ a pop for the replacement sensor i wouldnt just buy one to check to see if mines still working right lol.

yea im not gona replace the stock NB with the wideband, then i have to convert the WB to simulate a NB etc yadda yadda. just keep the NB there for the ECM and then run the WB with a gauge to see what A/F im gettin.

wat NB can i run that is a 3wire? is there a thread/sticky here to tell me how to wire it up? its kinda annoying to have to wait for the 02 sensor to kick in/closed loop before i can start blasting away lol

 

lol doubt my headers are even getting to 1742F! well maybe at the primary but not at the collector

 

I have no idea what my EGT's are but i bet they are up there when i first started tuning. A glowing red downpipe is not a good sign Car still runs strong so i dont think i hurt the sensor yet. I plan on relocating it down the exhaust alittle further but not sure when i'll get to that.

I believe when i had a 3 wire narrow band i ran some kind of vette o2 sensor. I think from a early 90's ZR1?? I cant recall the part number tho. I'd try a search here.

OR you can tune your open loop with the wideband by disabling closed loop for now, and then go back to closed loop once your happy with the open loop tune. The ecm doesnt read the nb sensor on WOT anyway so shouldnt matter if its hot or cold, just the part throttle will change with the closed loop open loop area if the open loop area is way off where it should be.

 

hmmm im gona have to do a search for the heated NB. i thought i read back in the day that it was a 93 or something ZR1.

i actually just sent u an email orr, i think it was your email. i wanted u to take a look at my log that i just took, seems that my BLMs and my 02 Mv are telling me two opposite things lol.

i prob could dissable closed loop to tune it but how do u tune WOT? u just take her out and beat the pi$$ outa her while datalogging? lol bc thats hard around here to get on it too much cuz the PO PO have nothing better to do in an urban enviornment

 

was it jorr89z28@comcast.net? I'll have to check.

Tune WOT with open loop you do a pull and datalog and check your logs. open loop reallly needs to have wideband to get the best results. My 383 i never datalogged. I had tunerpro RT dash displayed and i just watched it and my wideband gauge. I stopped and burned a chip with changes as i went. It was easy since it was a MAF car and all you really need to tune WOT is PE mode enrichment vs rpm. Add until air fuels look good. 2nd and 3rd gear pulls are best to get most load on the motor but 1st can be used if you can hook on the street.

If it gets too lean, get out of it. I first started with a mild base bin not much different than stock and my air fuel was over 17 to 1 took a TON of fuel to get down to 12.8 or so

Sounds like you need to find a back road area. Get out of the city. Or get on the freeway

 

yep that was the email.

yea im running your PE and u do have alottt lol. im gona have to try that, guess ill wait to tune WOT when i get the wideband installed.

the freeway is where they GET U! lol... state troopers are like ninjas out here, if i never went full throttle on the free way i would have saved 10,000$ in fines and lawyers

im gona have to get a DC converter so i can power my laptop and burn chips as i go i guess.

check out the log and let me know what you think. its a short one about 5min of me just idling in my driveway lol

 

finnished the install in about 7hrs lol but its all done. i had to rip the entire exhaust off my car bc i wanted the wideband bung mounted at a 2 O'oclock position vs a 3 o'clock position and bc i wanted to get a full leakless weld around the bung. do it right or go home!

heres the install. in one of the pics u can see how far i moved the mounting location to about 2-2.5' from the header collector location. this is farther than i wanted to go but it gave me the most room the best possible mounting angle and its far enough away from too much heat. its about 1.5' from the xpipe.

install went very easily. didnt even have to drill any holes in the car. ran the wire from the pass side to the pass side fender (i wrapped some fuel hose around it so if there was any vibrations it wouldnt wear into the cables) up through a factory grommet and into the cabin. then wired it all up. soldered everything in place and did the steps to set heater and free air. went through without any problems on the first try! thats never happened to me. the wideband works great.

heres some pics.

 

more

LC-1 module and plug is tie wrapped to the upperside of the outer SFC so its free of debris and water etc.

 

lol have you ever read over LC-1 manual

Appendix C: LC-1 Error Codes and Troubleshooting Tips

Error 8 Sensor Timing error
(typically a damaged
sensor).
1. Sensor overheating.
(The Bosch LSU4.2 is rated
to operate at a sensor
housing temperature of < 900
degrees (measured at the
bung) for maximum accuracy
and control. When this
operating temperature range
is exceeded, the sensor can
no longer be accurately
controlled. )

also

Error 3 Pump cell circuit shorted
4. Sensor overheating
5. EGT >1700º F

So it is even only 1652F at the bung

best regards