I have a 92 b4c 305 t5 that has been sitting for a little over a year. When i start the car it runs awesome and i can take it around the block a couple of times no problem. A couple minutes after it has ran it will then start spuddering so bad that if you touch the gas pedal it wants to die. If i turn the car off and turn it back on it will run fine for a little bit and then start doing the same thing. I think its when the car switches to closed loop is when this is happening. I tried adjusting the fuel regulator already and it smells really rich. Any ideas on what it could be? I really need to get this fixed to sell. Thanks, adam

 

Being a b4c this is a TPI setup? Get the engine hot and check the resistance of the injectors. Any that are under 12 ohms are bad.

Ignition module is also known to cause problems when they get hot. This is the first sign that they are on the way out. Although the tach will usually also get jumpy during this time.

RBob.

 

Yes it is a tpi. Ill have to get a tester and go over to my dads to check the injectors. I think i have another module sitting over there also. The tack doesnt jump though. Its weird because it runs fine until warm and then just falls flat on its face. i got a couple miles away and then kept having to shut it off and turn it back on to get it home. any other ideas i could try while im there?

 

also, check fuel pump, or a combo of the two...is there any check engine lights??

 

the fuel pump is new. yea there is a check engine light but i have no idea what for. im new to this fuel injection stuff. all other camaro and chevelle are carb'd.

 

A bad coil will; do that too but check your codes first.

 

How much are you selling it for just curious.

 

ill check the coil also, im sure i have one laying around also. im not too sure what i want for it actually

 

Of course check codes before doing anything else. Things that come to mind are ECT sensor, ignition module/pick up coil, fuel pump/filter, injector(s). Be sure to test and verify the problem before throwing parts at it. If you have known good test parts handy thats an okay cheat. Hope this helps.

 

is there any way to read codes without a code reader? i read you can run a jumper to two ports on the plug but i wanted to make sure before i really have a problem. also is there a way to keep it in open loop to get it to my house?

 

Hi Andy, Yes you can perform code flash by jumping terminals A & B of the DLC. The DLC is located below and just to the right of the steering wheel, under the dash. Terminals A&B are the first two at the top right of the connector. Jump them using a paper clip, then turn the key on. The check engine light will illuminate for a few seconds then turn off and begin flashing codes. Long flashes are tens, short flashes are ones. Example: two long flashes followed by three short flashes is code 23. Each code will repeat three times. After repairs, you can clear codes by disconnecting the battery for 20 seconds or they will clear automatically after 50 key cycles with no failure. The Check Engine light will turn off when there is no failure, even if codes are not cleared. Good luck

 

Alright thank you. I got how to do it just not read them. Learn something new every day. Thanks

 

Hey Andy, Sorry just reread your post. Im getting old and I forget **** real easy. To keep the vehicle in open loop you can unplug the O2 sensor. In fact the O2 may well be your culprit in the first place. Recognize however that this will trip a code. Remember that when you read codes. Good luck. BTW please let me know what codes you get.

 

Will do, im going over first thing in the morning. I am going to try to get it over to my house cause my dad has no internet and its not fun going back and forth. Thanks