QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

about 6 or so years ago i installed a built motor that needed tuning, at that time i thought i had it licked. after 5 people and each time not being able to get back with them for various reasons and wanting to get this finished but out of options for tuning i was looking at 2 decisions, go back stock or go waaaaaaaay out of town to a tuner and spend more than i should. a mail order burn wasnt an option, iv heard of various stories of bad burns and such and that turned me off to that option.

during my time at COMP i was informed of a new system being designed in the F.A.S.T. dept so i talked to the engineer about it and he told me its a self tuning system. so up untill the time i left i watched it go thru design. by being fed up with a half tuned car and no other options i asked a friend that is still at COMP about the system and his respnse was "BAD ***!! cant keep em in stock.

so i bought one.

there are other versions of this avail but i have the retro kit P/N 302000. this is what i used for my TPI system. right out of the box its pretty much all there unless like me you have a MAF car and are now going SD in which you will need a MAP sensor and unless your like me a bit OCD you want the plenum for a clean place to mount the MAP sensor for a cleaner effect. and you will need an old school dizzy , HEI style will work but a narrow cap/external coil style is best.

this is what the system looks like.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

otherwise everything was done in he eng bay and we were able to make alot of the stock stuff work which i will explain.

first thing was to get the dizzy placed and set. we dropped mine in aimed where the stock dizzy was when it came out. there is a white wire with a gray square plug,it looks like this....

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

this wire you clip the end off of it and take the white wire on the RPM module and the white wire from the square plug and join them in a E terminal and slides into the tach side of the dizzy. take the 2 black wires that have eyeltes and ground them to the back of the block. there will be a 12 ga red wire and another square plug, put a terminal on it and it goes to the batt side of the dizzy.
the last part is the yellow wire coming out of the RPM module, in the harness there is a wire marked RPM input, it plugs into the yellow wire on the RPM module.

after that its a matter of "pick a wire". there are only 6 wires after this that need to be tapped into the system and everything is well marked.

the gray wire is for the A/C, it brings up the RPM when the A/C is turned on, it taps into the factory green wire on the plug at the compressor.

the green wire goes into the B terminal on the fuel pump relay. its part of the FP controller.

the blue wire is for fan control and on the 89 it will take place of the dark green/white stripe wire in the relay plug for the standard fan.

the pink wire is 12v switchable it is taken from the ESC plug in terminal B. it may be diff pending your year. it will plug into the C terminal on the FP relay plug and bounce back out and connect to the 12v switchable wire in the FAST harness.

the black and red wires are 12 ga and are the power supply wires, THEY MUST BE DIRECTLY CONNECTED TO THE BATT TERMINALS!!! this ensures clean 12 v power.

the rest of the system is obvious, IAC,TPS, CTS, IAT, MAP,injectors and WBo2.
some wires will need to be shortend like the IAT and MAP.


ther are a few wires that might need to be extended depending on where you mount your ECU. me, i wanted mine in the cabin so i had to add to the batt wires (i sugguest soldering every connection) and the WBo2.

on the pas side kick panel is where the factory wires come thru and you will see a clam shell that the wires are ran thru, this has a slide lock accessable from the int and simply pulls up, depress the 2 taps (top and bottom) and the clam shell will pop out.

remove the innrer fender well and you can then further access the clam shell. i pulled mine apart and am, slowly clipping wires that arent needed as i come to them over time. after i have removed all of the wires i dont need i will run my harness thru it.

pulling the clam shell apart takes some effort, after the wires are put in the clam shell there is a hole at the top and they fill it with hot glue to seal it up so you will need to carefully pry the clam shell apart. this is the clam shell and innards. at the top of the pic is the loom that is inside the clam shell and the 2 shell halves on the stool.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

all in all there isnt much to this system and if you understand wiring or have a friend that is your set. another thing, DO NOT rely on the HAYES book for wireing info, you will be soooo lost its not funny.

we started with my hayes book and then cracked open my 89 HELM book and everything fell into place. i also sugguest you do this on a weekend and make sure you have another set of wheels incase you dont get things together, mine went together in about 5 hrs and this was with the engineer helping me.

all we did was lay it in, find all the connect points and set a baseline so we could get it running and a base line running memory. i sugguest doing this as it will make things so much easier and gives you an idea of where things will need to go vs lots of trial and error routing. this is my "mess" after we had everything in place

this isnt the greatest write up but its my experience currently with the system. i'll post up more pics of the setup process soon and i'll try and answer quest as best as poss.

Gumby

Post your results how it goes running wise.

Im betting you got a good deal on it?
less then retail?

I was real close to buying Fast till I found out the Holley system can do about a dozen more things fast can't for the same price. [NOS, Turbo, Blowers] Fast says you can't use any of those with their system.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...lley-fast.html

black85vette

Nice write up. F.A.S.T. gets plenty of buzz in forums and magazines. Seems to be very popular and lots of support from others who have used it. I will be watching to see how the tuning goes. I have no experience with the self tuning ECMs. Looks like it is a good choice for carb to EFI conversion.

Here is an article about the EZ EFI in Street Rodder magazine if anyone is interested;

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/...ion/index.html

I am really interested to hear how it optimizes the timing without knock sensor input.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

i did get a decent price on it but i cant disclose the actual cost, i will say i heard reg price is around $918 but dont hold me to that.

yeah, the ez system dosent allow power adders, that would be great but then it would intrude on the XFI system.

so far it learned pretty quick and it will tell you how much its learned and it will tell you it has learned when the AL bubble is checked on the screen, it means it indicates that all of the enable conditions for learning are met

as for no knock sensor, as the engineer told me, when an engine gets to the point of needing the KS to step in damage isalready being done. this system keeps everything from getting to that point by keeping the A/F at a safe level. my system is at a target AFR of 13.5 area.

to help understand the diff between chip tuning and this, chip tuning is like building a house, you have to lay down a base tune and then build a map to the targeted AFR.

with the EZ, you set up a base tune and give it a target AFR to achieve and the system builds the map for you.
i took the car for a drive the other night and for the short few miles i drove it, the system built and maintained pretty well. my AFRs stayed around the target, it did hit the 15 area a time or 2 but stayed where i wanteded for the most part.

by no means was it close to being tuned, this reqs a good bit more driving. the more you drive the faster it will hit the goal. it'll take a bit for me as the formula dosent do much with the weather we have had lately and i need tires and alignment before i can really do much driving.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

Lucky me, I just received my 302000 kit yesterday. I won't be installing this until after I can get a baseline dyno run on my car, in March probably. But I'm researching everything beforehand so there will be no surprises. My car is also an 89 TPI Bird, looks like we are doing almost the same project. I'm going to run an MSD 8361 PB distributor w. vac/mech advance, seems somewhat simpler.

I read your write up and, after looking thru the actual harness and directions that it came with, I'm only confused about a couple things; hope you'd be so kind to help me out.

You mentioned plugging in to the fan/fuel pump relays. Did you mean splicing in or actually removing the wire/terminal from the relay and replacing it with the EZ wire? (if so, how do you get it out??)

My wire for the FP relay is wire C, I assume we are both referring to the d.grn/white wire going in?

The 12v switchable really has me turned around. I don't understand the reference to the ESC/B and FPR/C terminals. Is this the bundle of wires in the clamshell or the relays themselves? If it is the relay, is that a splice or installing 2 wires in a terminal and reconnecting that way?

Did you block off the EGR or just unhook it from the vac source?

Also, where in the cabin are you locating the ECU? I wanted mine to live where the stock one does now, but the O2 wires are too short. How did you extend the O2, simple soldering? I may end up locating it in the bay.

I totally agree with your rationale for using EZ. I now have a burn-by-mail chip and I really think I've left a bunch of power on the table. My dyno runs will prove what I believe and have read about EZ. Can't wait to tackle this project, because AFR heads come next!

Thank you,
Eric

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

is your dizzy a small cap diz sortof like what came out of our car only old school style? thats my only search is a external coil HEI style diz. right now im using my DUI coil in cap, it works but its uuuuuugly.

we actually did both, i removed the wire from the plug with the removal tool to make soldering the wires easier. you can order the kit from summit. it contains 3 items, yellow handle tool that has a tube that removes the pins from TPS style plugs and of the like and also removes the receiving end of the TPS style plug, a red flat remover and a green narrower flat style remover. the green and red are about as wide as the tip on your smallest screwdriver.

it slides into the side of the plug pin. DELPHI has a set thats much better but the set i got from summit works just fine. you might be able to use a eyeglass screw kit screwdriver. this tool will make doing this MUCH easier.


mine was a med green wire thats attached to a plug that looks as if to recieve a TPS style plug. we just tapped into that and extended it into the C term on the relay.

my factory fan wire is a d grn/wht stripe.

ESC= electronic spark control. thats the flat square thing behind your FP relay. the pink/blk stripe wire on your ESC is in term B. take what ever wire is in term C of your FP relay and clip the end off, solder the end you clipped ff onto the pnk/blk stripe and add another wire with it. it'll look like a wishbone. basiclly, pk/blk stripe goes from GM harness into term C and bounces back out plugging into the FAST pink wire. are ya even more confused now, lol.

EGR is gone and blocked off, TPIS or some other supplier has em. me, i took a EGR gasket, had a friend trace it and cut it out of some thick sheet metal, cleaned it up and painted it.


im mounting mine inside the cabin on the pass side kick panel so i can keep an eye on the blue ECU light. its solid, everything is good, it flashes you have an issue. atleast thats where im planning on mounting mine.

the o2 wires i had to extend, if you have an old GM harness hanging around, cut wire from it and extend them, i added 3 ft to mine and even kept it color coded. i solderd everything except the yellow wire for the dizz, the A/C wire that ups the RPM when the A/C gets kicked on, the grn wire that goes into the FP relay in term B.

anything that actually COUNTED like the o2, 12v bat wires i solderd. also be ready to buy a few ft of loom.

i KNOW i was lacking. everytime i went to the dyno i was FAT, were talking 11.98 ratio fat.

any further ques and i'll gladly help, esp the ones you got even further cornfused on.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

if you need any pics for clearity i'll be glad to do so.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

QC, you've really cleared most of this up for me. Admittedly, my automotive wiring skills are a touch deficient...so what better project to take up than rewiring fuel injection! I have spent dozens of hours researching how to do this project and had only those few questions that were really bothering me. I think you've eliminated most of my trepidation with this project.

To clarify a few things; yes, I currently have the divorced coil small cap distributor. I run an MSD box so hooking up the RPM input and distributor should be fairly simple. I only asked in case I had missed something that would have permitted me to use my current setup- deferring to the experts here. I also ordered an EGR blockoff plate & gasket, wish I could keep the EGR though. I found the Summit wire tools (900402) you mentioned, I may have something similar to those lying around, if not I'll check Northern or get the Summit stuff. I was planning on butt-connecting my EZ wires to the relay wires but like your idea of removing the wire & terminal better; my soldering skills s.u.c.k. I cannot get the hang of it to save me. Also, when I got the EZ harness, I saw the 2 FP connections and immediately thought I had missed some information during my investigation. I thought I'd end up running a length of wires to the connection at the rear of the car to the fuel pump harness. Wrong. The one wire to relay method will make life easier. I think I'll just have to lay in my ECU & harness and go from there, be nice if I could mount it somewhere inside by the driver's kick panel. I'll figure that out later.

The only question (and comment) I still have is the 12v switched. I do appreciate your explanation of the ESC switched method you used, but your way confuses the crap out of me . Let me ask this; I hooked up 2 digital summit gauges on the pillar and ran both of those switched wires (16g? really tiny wires) into the fuse block, and joined them with one spade connector. Could I join both of those and the EZ 12v switched wires together (3 wires) in one spade and plug it back into the fuse block without creating a fire hazzard?

Again...

Afterthought...you did unhook the stock ECU right? Your speedo & VATS still work?

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

heres how i solder, i run some solder into the wire and this heats the wire then i'll hold the iron onto the wire right after and this allows the solder to really soak into the wire, after that i'll put the 2 wires side by side and the heat transfers and both wires come together. another way is to set them nex to each other and twist. it should look like a rope, then heat hte wire up and let hte solder soak in.

i would first lay out the harness aacross the eng like i did in my last pic and get everything connected THEN pull it back out and re run it. this way you know where everything has to go and know where to run it and the system is all plugged and prepped.

i wouldnt do it. all of my wiring is done in the eng bay, NOTHING is ran into the int for power or what not. the only thing in my int is the ECU. it starts there and all connections are made in the eng bay.

me personally, i wouldnt combine anything with the EZ system in that manner. i would run everything separate for if you had any issue it may also affect the ez system and then you would REALLY have a hard time tracking an issue.

Again...

my vats is gone, thats one thing i dont like about the system. but my speedo and tach and all gauges function properly.

what ever you do, DO NOT just jump in cutting wires. take time, test them with the "beep" portion of the multi meter on both ends to make sure you have the right wire before you start cutting things up.

some of the wires in the harness are combo crimped so your gonna have to pull some of the wires from the sleeving (that acordian black stuff the wires are in) and snip some off the combo crimp and leave others. there is a clear/whitish plug next to the speed buffer under the dash, take your time and figure out which wires arent used. there are about 6 on this plug that jumpers to the bulkhead plug that plugs into the GM ECM. those 6 can go, this is where the connector removal tools come in handy.

the rest of my wires will come outafter i'v had more shake down time and the eng comes out to be re built.

take your time and think things out. dont rush anything and you'll be ok.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

I think I have it all figured out now. Thanks again Richard for your detailed advice.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

no sweat, ya need anything else drop a line.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

took the car out a bit this weekend and this eve and the car is most definantly coming around. the tone it has is truly wicked as its finally getting the right fueling vs pig rich here, pop a pistion lean there and comfortable where ever else.

right now i think i have a bad IAC motor as its wanting to hunt and only settle into idle just as i come to a stop for a few secs then it'll start to hunt again.

the AL (adaptive learning) bubble is starting to stay checked more frequently which means its built a pretty good map but its not complete. i need to do more starts froma light so it can learn the fueling loads in that area so takeoff wil be smoother.

i try and do as much random stuff as poss when i drive so it can learn and build tables for these areas. until i get new tires and an alignment driving will be limited. i get up to about 60 or so and its vibrating pretty good.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

small update. on this system for it to learn you must drive it at intervals for a short period of time for the o2 corrections to take place. a friend that works at COMP has been helping me figure out my idle issue which we think it tuned a "hole" and is causing the idle surge.

in process of this he noticed why my upper RPMS was running lean, i hadnt driven the car hard in these areas for any time frame for it to learn. so we found a long stretch and we held it in gear for a spell and after a sec or few the o2 corrections were making the adj and the A/F ratios were coming into place. in the upper right of "dash 1" there is a o2 correction and the closer you are to being tuned the lower the percent number will be. for ecample, if you are pretty much in tune you may see 3% or close to it, if you are showing in hte upper
20's or so, you need to drive the car longer in that area so it can build the map and get the A/F tuned and build mapping.

one thin i also sugguest, when you first set the system up, set your dizzy up with heavy springs. it will make corections later when you re set the dizzy up for your tune that is close to being done. im thinking this contributed to the "hole" the system tuned around.

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

The system is not controlling the timing??? That is half of the advantage of EFI.

Gumby

Id say that is one of the biggest things that comes up on the holley tech forum, you gotta drive allot for it to learn right.

its not an instant thing, and the more you drive, the more it learns.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

correct and you must drive at speeds for a short bit of time so it can have something to read, learn and then store.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

this system was desined for low cost alt to regular EFI. if ya wanted all the bells and whistles, thats where the XFI comes in.

Gumby

a $20 adapter can have it control a GM dizzy

xch3no2

It Does NOT.


You better post a link to your "$20" Fuel and NO Spark part.

Otherwise people might think this is some sort of complete system.

Gumby

I think your just in a pissy mood and want to bitch n moan for your own amusement.

And its $25 before you have a fit.

Holley #510-558-304
HEI Ignition Harness
Dominator EFI, HP EFI & Avenger EFI

The Holley system can control as much or as little as you want.

xch3no2

Umm ya I might be lol, but what does this have to do with the FAST EZ?

DAVECS1

iTrader: (2)

I don't comsider timing a bell or a whistle but an integral part of of EFI. Effeciencies in tunning and engine control are much greater when you can manipulate the timing in 3 dimensions with the fuel.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

a little update on the system. somehow on initial setup we programmed a hole in the mapping. the hole was in the idle area and caused the system to try and compinsate for the area it "needed" to be at so it would hunt. i went to my friend thats pretty good with the XFI and he tweeked with it and like me, it would level out for a min or few then start hunting again. he would tweek again and after a min or few it would hunt again.

he did some thinking and we did 2 things, we put stiffer spring in the diz until we get tuning to a better spot then i'll drop the diz of with David over at DUI and have him re tune the dizzy for my app.

so after the spring we did a new tune which i learned something further, if you have an issue like i did and are using the same motor and such, it le me reset the idle settings but when i drove the car all of the previous learning it had in that area was retained. this was a plus.

so now when i start the car it does exactly like it should and thats idle up to about 12-1400 and then settle down to the programmed idle which for me is 900 RPMs and now i can come to a stop and not have to deal with a hunting idle.

i noticed something else, if your throttle body is orig and you have had ANY issues with it , get one that is healthy. mt bushings are going and that caused me to not get the idle in the target area where "i" wanted it but it was ok for the system. im currently planing a new TB purchase.

now we can tweek with some of the settings and move fueling around to make it even more happy.

Tobias05

Bump? How's she doing?

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

its doing pretty good, i adj the pump shot (like what a carb uses sorta) and leaning on the WOT area when i can so it can learn and tune the upper areas. i slowly make changes in the individual areas as needed but otherwise its coming along. i havent been able to really get out and run it down the road the way i really want with all thats going on so i do it in bits and pieces when i get the chance.

all of the adj i make are very understandable and dont req understanding of the old chip style tuning.

aftre i gave the car a new tune from when it tuned a hole in the idle area its doing MUCH better. how that happened were still baffled.

Tobias05

So if I read between the lines correctly, it was your distributor advancing timing off idle that caused the EFI system to hunt back and forth for the proper idle?

what dizzy do you have?

...i'm running a reman stock hei, and mine tends to do this with the carb now.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

we think the dizzy contributed to this but what we think is it litterly tuned a dead spot in the idle mapping and it would go back and forth trying to find a happy spot and there wasnt a happy spot due to the void.

im running a DUI old school HEI with the advance locked out for now. im looking at a MSD 8474 or a DUI 14720. being DUI is close and i'll be working at COMP again starting tues i'll get a price break.

as for whats causing your carb to do this i dunno but one of my friend that is a wiz at this type stuff said that sometimes a funky idle is due to not enough fuel or too much and as we discussed it, this made sense.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

a little update............

for the longest since i re installed the harness in a driveable form i havent been able to just "fire up and drive" and i knew it was something i did when i re installed it because when we rough installed it ran flawless.

so now that im back at COMP i cought up with the engineer and asked him about it and told him the code. he said i should be able to fire it up after everything primes, and then he said actually if everything is the way it should be i should be able to hit the key right off and everything function.

he said im getting electrical interfearance some how and this is causing me to wait till the o2 bubble checks or a few secs before and THEN i can fire it up. so i go home, relocate the o2 harness away from the dizz and it hits every time with no SE (systems error) code.

so when setting up this system, keep the o2 harness away from your dizz and be sure your plug wires are healthy as worn hi power wires can cause noize and cause headachs.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

I'm still waiting for the dyno to open for the season so I can get a baseline. I do have everything ready to go and the routing lined up. My O2 will run from under the HVAC blower box, behind the engine, under the distributror/over the bellhousing and connect to the collector.

Where did you have it when it worked and where was it when it stopped working? AAAND where is it now?

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

it WAS just below the dizzy plate but im planning on trying to stuff it below the intake on the bellhousing.

at the moment its running across the plenum.

how much drive time do you have on your system? all of my cruz and mild accell is in place but my upper RPM burst arent. it'll do some upper firm RPM accels.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

Finally got the car on the dyno (for the bolt-on numbers) and got the EZ installed. The car is still on jackstands while I figure out how to hook the tach back up. Pretty straight forward install, best of all it fired on on the first try! I was amazed. As far as I can tell just revving it up, it idles and revs much smoother. I can't wait to drive it. I am lucky, I have none of the O2 issues I've read about. I will post a complete account of my issues & resolutions and drivetime after I get the car on the road. I already love this product. If anybody has any questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

Problems solved. Read about my install here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...i-install.html

efiguy

iTrader: (2)

EXACTLY!

So this "self-tuning" system really isn't is it. You've had to adjust this and that on the dist as well as a bunch of other stuff.

Just an fyi for everyone;
On other systems, i.e. Accel and a few others you can load a base tune, drive the vehicle, datalog your session, do a fuel overlay and come back and make the adjustments then reload. Takes an hour or so. Then you can optimize spark from there, then you can have it infinitely control your fans, torque converter lockup, add spark when it's cold, take it out as it gets hotter and so and so on. You left a bunch of "frills" on the table for about $600.00.

I hope it was worth it.

Jmo.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

Obviously, the main thrust of this post and my own has been overlooked. Neither Quickchicken nor myself made these posts to try and sway anyone from their FI of choice. Rather we made them to try and help out folks like us who want this upgrade.

efiguy

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha, it's just that the feature per dollar ratio doesn't work for me that's all.

Thanks, jmo.

Mark

88TPI406GTA

I have been considering this upgrade for my 88 GTA. Even though it doesn't have spark control, etc., I like the self-tuning option.

In your research, do all of the systems in the 1000-2000 range have self-tuning standard? I don't want to have to learn intricate tuning, nor do I have the time. If the ECU can self-learn to get 90% of the tuning out of the way, that's what I want. I don't want tuning to become a 2nd job for me.

I have done limited chip-burning in the past...and the sheer amount of variables along with the hassle of burning makes me want a better, self-tuning option.

BOSS 357

iTrader: (1)

Not sure who you are asking, but my answer is "I don't know". I know that FAST (EZ-EFI) and Holley make true self-tuning units. I think the Holley version has more stuff you can control and can possibly use it with a boosted application, where as with EZ, you can only control idle speed, fan on temp, A/F targets, and maybe a thing or two more that I have failed to mention on a NA engine only.

Most of the other stuff, I believe, is more hands on.

efiguy

iTrader: (2)

Here are the facts gentlemen.
The self tuning stuff has it's advantages no doubt, but you still have things to set,calibrate and you lose spark control, period.

Take the Accel for instance. You can load a base map, which in some cases is extremely close already, then drive the vehicle as you would with the self tuning, all the while datalogging the session. Then come back, do a fuel overlay, that will mimic where you just drove in load and rpm. Then change the cells yourself. It can be done one at a time or in groups. If you get part of it done and not the rest you can normally just click on the extrapolate feature and it will help finish the rest of the map. It's really not that hard.
Then on top of that you have the important transient tables, (driving and accelerating) to tune, enhancing the running quality. Those are done after the base tune is set, just like on a self tuning. You'll set your air/fuels, just like on a self tune, but with far more resolution, if you want.

And don't forget spark, you can't imagine the difference that can make, especially in climates that have widely varying temperatures.

It'll do nitrous, put in a pill size and bottle pressure and it does the fuel table for you, knock sensor, and a whole host of other stuff, all for around $500.00 more. I don't get it. As I mentioned, the feature to dollar ratio doesn't work for me on the other stuff.

Jmo.

88TPI406GTA

so...if I understand this properly:

EZ-EFI: Self-tuning, but limited in other control options, including no spark control

Accel: No-self tuning, but has optional control of fans, spark, knock sensor, etc.


What is the option that is a combination of both?

Is it anywhere reasonable in price to implement (under $2,000 for me)?


Thanks for the info...

efiguy

iTrader: (2)

Email me anytime, fastone01@hotmail.com

88TPI406GTA

It occured to me that I should start a new thread on this...I realized that this has (unintentionally) turned into a thread hijack.

Please continue to post your real-world results (positive and negative) here for myself and others. I really am interested for how this works out for you guys in the long run. Please keep the updates coming

efiguy

iTrader: (2)

As well.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

its more of a "at what level of injection do you want". i have a friend that has a 9 sec s-10 blaser on gas that runs the XFI and now has the 2.0 system. with what hes doing he needs all of the stuff the XFI offers.

me, i just wanted my basic tuning needs handled and this does exactly what i want and at an affordable price. as we were looking at some of my friends data, i knew i didnt need all of the features of the XFI.
this system must be in the right market because we CANNOT get ahead in the F.A.S.T. dept.

the EZ tcu takes care of the trans controls, yeah thats another system to buy but its there and with that you can have just that to control the trans only if thats all you want.

the EZ fills a very valuble void by offering an affordable injection system and low hassle. the more stuff you add like spark control, trans, avail to run power adders, that stacks cost and which is why the holley system cost what it does.

"self tuning" can be looked at differently. if you want something you just hit the key and it does all the mapping, yes, this isnt a self tuning system.
yes your going to have to make some adj no matter what. there is no way to have a tru bolt up and drive, no adj, tune itself, one size fits all system. even though it "self tuning" there are areas that will need to be trimmed in.

just a fun fact. how close will this system tune and be correct like the big brother, multi adj XFI? we put an EZ and an XFI on the same motor, they both produced the same exact #s.

efiguy

iTrader: (2)

You're right, there's no question that there is a market for the system. And the point you make about actually needing all the features on a EZ vs the new 2.0 XFI is the same argument I make on an Accel for instance vs. others as well.

However, there is one thing I am having a hard time believing, that the EZ without spark and sequential control made exactly the same power as an XFI. Quite frankly that doesn't speak well for the XFI. Why? Simple.

The Univ of No.Carolina Charlotte did a back to back test on a 300hp 350 Chevy with a batch fire Holley 950 vs a sequential Accel Thruster.
Both were dialed in on a very sophisticated dyno. As expected both made nearly the same peak hp, within 4 or 5. However the midrange was a different story. As much as 25lbft and 30hp more was made throughout different parts of the power curve. That's what equates to a better driving vehicle. That's where a well tuned system like an Accel, FAST XFI etc is hard to beat. Maybe there was something amiss in your XFI tune, it should have bested the EZ, hands down.

Jmo, thanks Richard.
Mark

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

this was done on the COMP cams dyno in R&D not by me. i'll gladly let ya tell the R&D guys their tune was off being most likely it was the engineer if the EZ system that did the test.

efiguy

iTrader: (2)

Oh well that makes all the difference in the world!lol

You seem like an intelligent guy Richard, but why would anyone believe that?

Even though a multiport system won the latest PHR EMC in every category, typically a throttle body or even a carb will make more peak power than a MPFI. (And I'll bet Comp/FAST was pissed, they were co-sponsor and an Accel won).

Why?
Simple, the fuel is mixed further up stream, making for a more homogenous mixture. That's why you'll see more and more guys moving the injectors upstream for more peak power. I'll be part of a team that's entering this years EMC, that's what we're doing.
From what I've seen in the dozens of tunes that I've done, being able to control fuel puddling with a mpfi at anything less than full throttle and having nearly infinite control of the spark curve with a better ECM has always contributed to a better midrange power curve, always. Even an EZ multiport won't match an XFI or similar. The fact that you have limited air/fuel choices, batch fire and again no spark control on the EZ will absolutely effect hp and tq output, especially down low. No way the EZ mirrored the XFI in hp/tq across the rpm range, no way. Or again that's not saying much for the XFI.

Compcams Inc makes a lot of great products. But as good of a manufacturer as they are, they're an even better marketing company. Who did a better job than them selling their same customer a 4-7 swap cam, convincing everyone it was the best thing since sliced bread! (By the way, Chevy and Dodges' new Nascar engines taken from a clean sheet of paper have what for a firing order, you got it, the original 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2).
Think about it, why would you willfully put one of your own products ahead of another? If you say they're equal, it's a win-win.

Given my pretty fair EFI backround, Comps' abilities as a marketing company and the fact that they did the test and not an independant entity, I wouldn't believe their results for a second.

Just my educated response, thanks.
Mark

silvernblack

I'm looking into the FAST EZ-EFI. And, yes, i know it doesn't control timing, and I'm ok with that.
I'm looking to use it to run my RamJet 350 (which I've been running with a 730 ECM). I don't feel like burning chips anymore.