Mayt13

Wont start. Starter kicks it over but wont grab. Just replaced, wires, distributor cap/rotor and plugs recently. Its getting spark, plugs are a little wet and smell like gas so its getting fuel. Plugs are a little fouled but not so bad it shouldn't start. Just replaced timing chain and gears. Checked to see if the rotor is on the right cylinder lead when at TDC, it was. Injectors were oversized and made the car run like ****, swapped them out with stock injectors, still wont start. Fuel pump fuse is fine.

When running was throwing a "ESC issue" code. I'm baffled. if its getting spark, and the wires and distributor are new, why would it have a problem with the electronic spark control module? How can I test my ESC? Chilton's doesn't really say. Only thing I can think of is that on of my sensors is dead or something but I don't really know how to test those either. I have an OBD 1 scanner but its the $30 from AutoZone, is there a better one? Everyone keeps referencing a different scanning device (for OBD 1) but I don't know what to look for.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Because the ESC and EST systems are separate systems. A bad ESC system won't cause the engine to not start.

RBob.

Mayt13

That's exactly why I'm utterly confused, what could possibly be causing it not to grab? Sorry I dont have my Chilton in front of me, whats an EST again? Could my EST be bad?

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

You've done a lot of work to the engine, it's more than possible it's a mechanical issue.

Timing, both ignition and cam timing must be right.

Remember, the same cylinder will be at TDC twice in one cycle, it's possible you have the dizzy 180 degrees out.

Mayt13

Sorry, I'm still a bit of a noob. When you say that a single cylinder will be at TDC twice in one cycle do you mean that the cylinder will be at the top of its displacement twice in one cycle or that it will compete one oscillation (top and bottom) in a single cycle?

and if the former then how would I know if it is 180 out if the rotor points to the same cylinder and the cylinder is in the same position (i.e at maximum vertical displacement)?

Ps
Even though I dont know what I'm doing I had 2 mechanics there with me while all the work was being done.
Also it ran after the timing chain was replaced, so I dont think its 180 out.

EagleMark

Did it ran after timing chain and distributor was replaced?

When he says 180 out he means distributor. You can line up timing marks to TDC at TDC compression and TDC intake. Unless you watch your valves or put your finger over number one spark plug hole, not in it, and feel compression strke before lining up TDC on blencer you could be 180 out on distrubtor.

If that is not the case and you have fuel and spark, pull the wet plugs, crank engine over to dry out install new plugs. Ot turn off fuel pump put foot to floor and crank till it runs and dies from no fuel.

ESC is part of knock retard system. EST is module in distributor that makes spark.

Mayt13

... And then its magically started today. Did absolutely nothing different, messed with the distributor cap and it fired right up. Timed it and then tightened the distributor cap back down. I live in Las Vegas, so its usually quite hot, when this thing is cold it never wants to start and I dont mean hard to start, I mean WONT start. I dont get it, when it runs, it runs fine; albeit pretty rich. I dont get it, what could cause this? I still think it might be some sensor, because it definitely runs rich and I set the timing to the books specified setting.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

The spark plugs being wet with fuel will/can cause a no-start condition. It may be since it tends to run rich that a cold start is flooding.

RBob.

Mayt13

Perhaps it is flooding, but the entire reason I changed the injectors was to make it run less rich and it does. Sprayed some sea foam in the intake then I drove it around yesterday. backfired real bad for a bit then it ran like a charm. I was timing it, and the clip that holds the distributor cap in place broke. I have never even heard of that happening...

timing was jumping around a little before the clip broke.

Vacuum issue? I had a thought, I'm pretty sure that I set up the vacuum correctly, but the guy that owned it before me never had any of it hooked up. The car originally had a automatic transmission and he put in a manual. someone mentioned in passing that there could be a vacuum line that goes down to my transmission. Is that true? if so me may have not plugged it off.

PS Thanks so much guys, this is my first car and you guys are really helpful!

EagleMark

Yes a vacuum leak will cause all kinds of chaos in a EFI vehicle.

But what kind of vehicle is this? IIRC all GM EFI cars have screws holding distributor cap on and you broke a clip? 4 screws on big cap and 2 screws on small cap. What clip?

george88gta

(est)..... electronic set timing...no?????? disconnected to set timing.not module that makes spark .

Mayt13

For anyone who may look at this thread in the future:

Car had no vacuum leak, however its timing chain had skipped a tooth. The timing was jumping around so much, I could hardly get it to run. After timing chain and injectors it ran great.