Today I converted to SD ECM hooked up the MAP, put a 3.9k resistor between the ECM and the knock sensor, and repined my 165 Harness to 730. Now the engine will crank but the car will not start.

Here is what I have done to trouble shoot the problem:
- I used a multimeter to check the power leads on the ECM they are good.
- Checked the ECM grounds, there good
- Checked for codes got code 12 (ECM ok)
- Checked every pin twice, there all in the right spot.
- Tried a memcal out of my bro's 92 that has VATS disabled still didn’t start

What should I check now?

 

The more and more I work on it I think it may be VATS. I hooked a scan tool up and with the key in the ON position the scan tool has a 1 next to vats fail. I have an 89 IROC, which came stock with VATS. I just burnt a chip with VATS disabled. It still does not work. The security light does not stay on when cracking, doesn’t that mean the VATS system is okay? I am very confused.

 

I'd hook a scanner up to see what information you get back from the sensors especially the MAP. It doesn't sound like your car has that many mod's so it should at least start with a stock AUJP with VATS and VSS disabled.

 

The scan tool says the MAP is at 29.75 Hg, What should it read with the car off. I think they may be something wrong with the MAP. I used the MAF wiring for the MAF this is how i hooked it up:

730 A4 (MAP +5v ref.) --- MAF pin B (165 ecm pin A11)
730 B6 (MAP GND) --- MAF pin A (165 ecm pin D1)
730 F15 (MAP Signal) --- MAF pin C (165 ecm pin B12)

MAF pin B to pin C on MAP
MAF pin A to pin A on MAP
MAF pin C to pin B on MAP

For pin B6 I just spliced off D1 so D1 goes to BB6 and D1

Did i do this right?

 

I would expect with engine off the MAP would be close to 100 KPA or 5 volts.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=kpa+volts

Try disconnecting the vacuum hose from the MAP and scan it again to see if you get a different reading. If it reads close to 100 KPA you have a problem with where you hooked your vacuum line up at. If it still does not register correctly I'd check your wiring again.

 

Okay my map is fine then..

 

I have checked the pins on the ECM 5 times now, there all right... What else should i check?

 

not to be silly but does the fuel pump kick in when the key is turned?

 

Yes, I can hear the pump prime when key is in the on position. Thanks for asking.

 

never mind this, read below it explain the spark problem more in-depth

 

I was look at stuff with the scan tool hooked up and at WOT the TPS sensor only reads 1.35 volts which is 13.3%. Something is messed up... At rest the TPS reads 0.57 volts which is about right... Man i messed something up..

 

Oh I forgot to mention when I was repining the ECM I forgot to unplug the battery and the ECM power must have shorted with some other wires and blew the ECM fuse (which I replaced). So I probably blew a sensor or something.

Maybe this is why my car won't start? Or why my TPS reads 1.35 volts at WOT. Ahhh, this just gets worse by the second.

 

Disconet the connector from the TPS, you should have 5v across the outside pins.

No 5v?.
Double check you power and grounds with the ecm diconnected. If things are right and no 5v you've killed the ecm.

Put a light across the an injector connector and see if it flashes during crank. No flash means injectors aren't firing.

If the ecm has a ref signal and no injectors foring during crank then sounds like a VATs problem.

 

Okay I found out that the ECM is not reading the sensors right. The ECM was reading the coolant temp as 108 when it was 80 and the TPS at WOT as 1.35 volts when it was 4volts. I put in the ECM from my brothers car (92 tpi) loaded up the scan tool and now it reads the TPS right and the others sensors correctly. Car still will not start!

 

Can anyone help me out on the no spark issue as stated above? That may be my problem.

I hooked a bulb to the injector pin out on the ECM, like Grumpy said. The bulb light up when I put the key in the on position but did not flash when I cracked the engine it just stayed light. Does that mean my injectors are not firing?

 

I think I may have figured out the problem. When I am cranking the engine the tach reads 0 RPMs and the scan tool reads 0 RPMs.

I think I may have blew the HEI Distributor module, here is my logic behind this:
(Note: This is all assuming that the ECM should read some RPMS on crack)

Okay I wanted to see if I have spark so I hooked a wire from the frame and put it a few centimeters away from the output of the coil (I took off the wire going from the coil to the distributor cap so the coil output is exposed). Then I started cranking the engine and it didn't arc (Which it should).

- There is 12v going into the coil
- I checked the coil with an ohm meter it was ok
- I tried a spare coil I had lying around still no spark

Correct me if I am wrong but the HEI Distributor module outputs a plus to the coil to fire. So if the HEI Distributor module is broken the coil will not put out spark right??

Do you guys think that is the problem?

Is there a way to check the HEI Distributor module without buying a new one?

Note: I may have broken the HEI Distributor module when the ECM power wire shorted with one of the other wires and popped the ECM fuse.

 

"Is there a way to check the HEI Distributor module without buying a new one? "
I believe Auto Zombies can check the module seperately. You would need a square pulse generator,power supply, and a DVM to check it off the car. Kinda long to explain in detail on how to check it at home, cheers, Bob

 

Makes me believe your ECM is toast. sorry cheers, Bob

 

Does your brother's chip use VATS when you swapped ECM's? Id make sure VATS is off just to eliminate it as an issue.

 

Well I am using my brothers ECM and a custom chip I made with VATS disabled

 

Is the ECM supposed to read RPMs on crank?

 

I put in the HEI Distributor module from my brothers car into mine. My car started right up, but I got a code 43, which is ESC failure. How should I go about trouble shooting this?

Can that happen from using the stock 165 Knock sensor??
I put a 3.9 k resistor on it like is says you can do here:
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28..._730/165KS.txt

 

make sure that you didn;t knock the connector for the base timing loose when you changed yr ignition module.