Let me first make a few things clear. I relocated the switch into the ash tray area by using CAT5 network cable. There was never a problem with the switch just in the socket. Now that it's relocated I can only access 4 of the 8 codes.
When the switch is in the 0 and 1 position I only get what's on the 0, when in either 2 or 3 I get what I stored in location 4, when in either 4 or 5 I get what I stored in location 2, and when in either 6 or 7 I get what's stored in 6!!!
I have a feeling that a wire is touching another but I have no understanding on how the 6 pin switch controls 8 programs!!!
I'm going to take it apart tomorrow but I'd like to know if this might be a problem with something other than the switch.

 

I am also having "issues" with the switcher and what you descrie is almost what I am seeing, except I haven't relocated the switch.
Just so you know you aren't alone in this, and Craig is looking into the problem of data "straying" on the chip.

 

Okay, so what exactly is your problem because I think we are the only 2 that have a problem . If you're having the exact same issues have you tried flipping the switch around? Not sure if that's the case but I just have a good feeling that there is a wire crossed somewhere. I'm going to go fix it now and post an update later tonight.

 

My problem is a bit more involved than the worng bin in the wrong position.Mine is more like data bleeding across the "boundries" on the chip. If I burn the chip with all the same exact bin, it works fine. But if I make several different bins and burn the chip with them, the car won't start or if it does finally start and I switch to a bin that is just the same as the one that was just running the BLM's will be very different and the idle quality and performance will be markedly different.

 

Well I tried a few things tonight. First was to just slap the switch right back onto the adaptor and it works. So I figured it's not the switch, gotta be the wire. I went and laid each wire strand out so they wouldn't have any interference...forget it, doesn't matter.
THEN I figured out how the switch works. I proceeded to isolate the switching at the adaptor by useing transistors (4 switching PNP is all that's needed). It worked when the switch was close but I was still getting problems with the wire length so I ditched the whole switch relocation.
It was for the best because right now the car feels completely different, much snappier, go figure. I guess the length of wire has something to do with either the latency (slows down the rest of the ecm) or there was just too much interference and the ecm was having to recheck the eprom for valid data!?!?!
Either way I'm just going to end up relocating the whole ecm somewhere closer to the drivers seat so I don't have to reach over while driving.

 

Did you get this straightened out?

I might have a lead on the 040 switcher issues. Tried an AMD chip and it works flawlessly with the 730's. That's news...

 

Any testing with the 165's yet? Still using the 040 chip filled with exactly the same bins in every spot, this seems to work but negates the switching ability.

 

I still can't get the switch to be more than 10 inchs and keep the 8 way, it just goes to 4. I guess the only way to relocate is to move the ecm.