Anyone have difficulties programming 2732a chips with the PP2.

I can almost never get one to reprogram. I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks

 

Is that the only prom with problems? What OS are you using?

 

Give us more details.
Are you sure you've got 2732A selected as the eprom. Are you erasing them with UV light and doing a blank check first? This is a common reason for them to not reprogram.

 

I am using 2732a as device,

OS is windows 98,

Nothing fancy on the laptop that I'm using and I do not have anyproblems with any other Eproms like 29c256, or the 040b's that the moates switcher uses.

It does seem like my 27C256's have been a bit touchy as well but the 2732a's are just rediculus. I'll buy 5 from Craig (texas instrument chips) and will only beable to program one sucessfully.

I'm even having a problem reflashing stock 2732a eproms. Most of the time the programmer will get to 200 or 800 then quit and say device did not program.

I do start off with a blank check.

Someone suggested me to close all other programs. I will try this. If anyone else have any suggestions please help!

 

A 2732a is not a flash prom so you need to erase them first with UV light. That's the reason you can't reflash them. If they are passing the blank check and not programming then there is something really FUBAR with your setup.

 

I am erasing them with UV light.

I've been doing this for a while now

 

Okay, the only other thing I can think of is that those eproms are getting too much UV. How long are you leaving them in the eraser?

 

maybe 5min. usually when they come from craig they are already erased and still have problems.

Maybe I'll let a set sit for a hour or two and try it

 

I do a 12 min erase time. Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes.

 

WOW! I just timed how long my eraser is set for and it only goes for two minutes & 3 seconds.
Only one or two times has it failed to erase and had to put it in again.
DATAERASE 2

 

I always pull mine out often and check to see if they are done.

I never let them sit for more than what they need.

All you TBI guys do you have problems with the 2732A chips? I would kill for a EEprom version!

 

I have no problems with my PP2 and programming the 2732As
BUT
There is no reason to KILL, just get Craig Moats to fix you up with one of his switchers, not only does it use the FLASH EEPROMS, it holds 8 bins at once, and you can switch to any of the bins as you need.

 

I think I'm going to scrap these 2732a's. Don't know what the deal is, but I can't program them either now. They worked fine before, maybe the cat rubbed up against the box or something.

Anyways, if you have a 2732A from me and it's giving you problems, just let me know and I'll give you a refund, credit, or whatever.

Best alternative I can offer right now is the P2 switcher. Like Chop says, it lets you go to a 29C256 for TBI applications instead of the 2732A. That's a significant gain in convenience, speed, and (apparently) durability.

 

I think the texas instrument 2732's are just dookie,

Maybe other brands work better.

I'm begining to thing that maybe the PP2 isn't switching to different voltages like it should. Maybe its still stuck on 5v?? I don't know.

 

I am having the same problems.
My old PP would do them fine. Sent it in for repairs and they sent a new one instead....and now the problems.
My friend has the old one, I take the proms to him and they program fine.?????

 

I've got the old one and it won't do em either. Also tried on the EPROMER5, won't work either. I'm going the convinced-it's-the-chips route on thinking.

 

P2 switcher? I'm confused.. I have a 746 that uses 2732A's and am trying to find 2732a eproms to burn, does this p2 switcher somehow allow me to use a 29C256 chip in my 746 ecm? how does it do that?

has anyone tried any of these 2732a's from Jameco?

http://www.jameco.com/cgi-bin/ncomme...Go.x=30&Go.y=7
I don't know which one to use there is 3 different ones.


Also JDR has some..but again they have 2 diff 2732a's and not sure which one to get

2732A-200
2732A-250
http://www.jdr.com/interact/item.asp...-epromcircuits

and I don't see any 2732a's listed on craig's site(I saw he said he was dropping them)
I was planning on getting a PP2/Winbin/2732a eproms(if I can find the right one) but after reading this I'm not sure

 

Any of those listed should work fine. I bought 250's and have never had a problem

 

I had a problem like this. I called PP2's support and after he talked me thought some diagnostics with the software and a voltmeter he had me send it back with one of my prom chips. A few weeks later I received it back with a software upgrade and I haven't had a problem since.

 

Might use Alt/Cont/Delete and make sure nothing is running in the background.

 

Great! thanks

 

I have a question for you 2732A experience dudes... Mine has this plastic holder on the chip. I want to copy my stock 2732A for a baseline before I start doing cutom bin's. from the looks of the PP2 the plastic 'holder' on my 2732A will have to be removed before I can put the chip on the PP2 is this correct? I tried to see if I could push the chip out from its plastic holder thing with a pen but it didn't budge and I was afraid to push harder is this thing glued in or something? can I push it out of that plastic holder without breaking it?

thanks

 

That bastard ****ing piece ate my stock chip. Push one side of the feet type things in, make sure you get all of them, and then just push it out and straighten out the side you pushed in. If you get one that's still seated when you try to push it out from the top its done.

 

Sometimes taking out the stock chip from the holder is tough, I broke my first one too. Since then I have it down now. I have heard people say just squeze it and it pops out, well that ain't always the way it goes.
Here is the method I use.

1) hold in your fingers like your rolling a j.... cigarette and push it into the holder. it takes a bit of force to feel it move. This kinda frees up the pins.

2) While still pushing the same direction with one hand but not as hard, push out on the plastic side walls easily one slot at a time. You may feel the pins free themselves of the side. you may have to do this back an forth a few times.

When one pin gets stuck, this is where you break it. Push the chip into the socket harder to free the pin as you push out on the side.