Installed new 58mm TB and added 2% to PE,
New best 11.62 @ 119 MPH.

 

Here is a pic of a pic.

 

opps

 

What did the 58mm TB replace? What was the best slip with the other TB?

 

DUDE!!! So you got the starter fixed? That's a great time!

I need to get my 400 block assembled and done. I'll see if I can squeeze a bit more power out of your old heads.

 

The 58 replaced a 52mm BBK. Best time with that being 11.76 @ 117
Yeah got a new one on,The other one busted the nose cone off! but was my fault because I used regular bolts on it instead of shoulder bolts. I guess that warning on the side was telling the truth.
Thanks, I'm pretty pumped but still have more to do.
Still using short headers and hyd roller.

There is surely more power left in those heads,I can't wait to see how they work out for ya.

 

87_Ta,

Looks like your making some nice improments.

Why don't you take it to the dyno to see what the exact power output is and WB data?


What was the DA readings. The past few weekends have been really nice race weather for July timeframe. Its killing me to be booted off every strip in central PA

The roll bar is getting put in on NJ this weekend/week. Then I'm sure we will see each other at Keystone. As that is the best track we have to run at around here.

My D44 is giving up the goat already The limited slip is out, and both back wheels are locked 1:1. I am running it in NJ this weekend and hoping for some decent weather, but I have to run my restrictive exhaust and doubt I will do very well. Its down to below <2" in spots where its bent. But at Keystone that one weekend it still did 11.3@120+ MPH with it on, so maybe I will run OK. its just going to suck to be at 11.0x and know that I could have hit the 10s with the exhaust off.

Oh well. Good to see your still crankin away at it. Those AFRs are the cats azz aren't they.

Do you have the 190s? Are they ported.

We had a very good discussion on the vette forum with regards to MR vs SR. Now don't everyone kill me for saying this. But there are several members that are very good engine builders/racers that slowed down in the 1/4 with the switch from the SR to the MR.

It would be neat to see if you would benefit from the SR and I would from the MR.

Beach Bum is working on getting a HSR to try. I have another guy offering to give me one to try. I just hate to abandon my original plan of getting this car into the 10s like this.

Good talking with you again and hope be back in action at Keystone in the near future.

 

ugh.... thats EXACTLY where i want my car to be at......










i have soo far to go......

 

Well I plan to get it on a dyno soon,but i'm still making some changes. I have a solid roller on the way from TPIS 242/242
570 / 570 ..
The DA that day I believe was 2600 ft,not to bad. I'm sure on a cooler day I will hit 120mph.
Yeah ,i'm sure people have slowed down with a Mini Ram,especially if their car is set up for a super IE: smaller stall,less gear. Thats the beauty of the super ram that torque is soo good and you can run a hwy gear.
I think for my car to run the ET it should I will have to go to a 4.10 gear and a larger stall... but TPIS seems to think my low end torque will raise with the new cam.
But all in all I am very happy with the current HP.

 

ahhh...Nice cam choice.

Just make sure your springs are up to the task for that lift, with 1.6 RR you will be at .610 lift and the ramp rates for these solid rollers are quick/aggressive. Also it will be a larger issue with you since you will be revving it much higher to make that MR work.

Just as a side note...Be sure to degree that cam, and double check the part numbers and mic each lobe, TPIS is noted for having mistakes. They sent me the wrong cam the first time around

Good luck......You're easily in the 120 mark in better weather. The day you saw me run in Keystone the DA according to Corky's weather station, was 2300-2600 ft'.

I think that cam will help you out...

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

87_ta,

Here are some dyno number that I compiled during the MR/SR discussion. The MR really cranks up past the 5000 RPM mark, but below that the SR is all business.

Just from my own point of view I am leary about more gears as you will eventually, as my dad experienced start holding yourself back as you will be trapping at super high RPMs, but for your MR you might be able to get away with it.

Here are the graphs. I'm only sharing them for informational purposes, and I think both intakes shine in their own way.



I would like to hear what you have to say. That 383 I believe had the same exact cam that we are running, with pro ported 190 heads, MR. The best ET it laid down was 11.5@127 with 1.8 60'. It was a standard so don't be fooled by the very high MPH, as they will always trap about 4-6 MPH faster than our autos.

Hope you don't mind me posting this information here. I thought it was intesting. And we all had a very good discussion about it over there.

Later.

 

Cool Thanks ski..
Don't mind at all,that was a pretty interesting comparison.
I would really like to see a more even one though,also would like to have seen the pull start around 2500 RPM to really see where the SR shines over the MR.
I am very impressed with how long the SR retains its torque ,also equally impressed with how flat the MR's torque was.

 

87_TA,

Really the comparison is pretty good when all the stats are lined up. The 383 has every advantage in air flow. Ported AFR heads, MR, and still maintains a pretty high CR 11:1, and the same cam.

Mine is well what you see in the signiture.

I am really torn between the two intakes. On one hand you can make 100+ HP and TQ down below 3500RPM with the SR over the MR, which for a street car is awesome. Or the MR can make more HP ~above 5500RPM.

I would love to see the dyno from your car, and be able to add it to the comparison here for conversation sake.

The biggest ticket item I can see as a clear cut benifit of the SR over the MR is the RPM difference needed to make good power. With the MR you can spin the motor 1500-2000 less RPM and make nearly the same or better HP/TQ. We all know that RPM is the number 1 killer of engine components. You strain everything from the crank to the valve springs at higher RPM.

Manditory spring checks at regular intervals are eccentual to ensure you don't have catastrophic engine failure.

For that reason alone, I am personally bias towards the SR. Even through the MR is a much simpler and more easily assembled unit.

But there is the making for a HSR to be installed on Beach Bums 383/219 setup that I can't wait to see! That I believe is going to be the ulitimate hybrid of the SR and MR. Good Torque numbers and the added HP elevated RPM.

I will be sure to post the results that he gets!

Oh yeah...I couldn't get the reading for <3000 RPM due to my converter stall speed

I would imagine the TQ on my motor would be through the roof and so would the HP down that low. You can see the trend of where they might fall on the graphs.

Keep in ming also when viewing those results that the MRs numbers were SAE corrected. While both of mine were not. I think the first ones DA would have been about 2400-2600 based on the type of day it was, while the other run (lower) numbers I knew from the weather station that the DA was 3400'.

Not realy sure how to go through and correct each entry. Its all relative anyways.

 

Yeah it seems there are alot of pros and cons to each,actually for a HI-PO street engine the MR is much more street friendly. I can run pretty much the same ET on the street as I can on the track thanks to lack of low end torque. But then again for a not so potent combo that torque is really fun on the street.
Simple design is very right , I can change inj. in 5 minutes and have the whole intake off in less than 10, Also the intake is not really affected by heat soak.
But regardless of those the one with the most always wins in my book.
Actually once I get my new cam in we will have a pretty good comparison, But I will still be giving up to more compression and
Long Tube Headers.
If I ever get long tubes on we will have a great dyno comparison for the books.

 

87...

I don't think you will pick up a whole lot with the headers. Corkvette1 is only running 1 5/8 headers on his 406. I gave him mine for a weekend to try. The car didn't even pick up anything. I think the gains many people see from headers are also as a result of changing the entire exhuast system with the addition of headers. And as a whole the entire system benfits.

I don't think when you get to our level of HP/TQ your going to gain much more than maybe 5 hp or so with Headers, if your already running well. You know what I mean. Corky's headers look like spagetti compared to mine, and he realized nothing from them. Maybe .04 sec, but that could have been anything.

If you have 3" exhaust pipes after the shorties or the headers those gases are into that large chamber so quick its rediculous. There might be some scavenging that happens better with longer tubes, but nothing to write home about. Now going from the stock manifolds to shorties or headers I think you will gain some.

I would love to try the MR sometime, but all the other items that are needed to get it to work well, just isn't worth it. And I really doing think I would pick up anything. I would need new rear gears, and a higher TC to make the setup work.

I have been talking with many guys that had both intakes on the strip, and nearly all of them went that extra mile to ensure that they are running matched setups and they all said they went slower with the MR. I can't figure out why. A few magazine articles stated that with a swap and altered gears and TC the results were a wash at the track or the SR was slightly ahead.

As for the installation of the SR, sure its more time consuming to do than the MR, but I can have it off in no time and back together now that everything is tweaked to get it back together quicker. Hell I think the last time I put it on it was in under 30 minutes from the time we started. And really how many times do you need to pull the manifold/intake off an engine? Hell the valve covers take longer to pull off my motor than the intake! With the AC and tight fitting these things have.

I look forward to seeing your dyno results and how that cam works out for you.

John mackey on the vetteforum is running a MR with a 350 stock bottom at 11.5@120 MPH, he is running I believe a 4400 stall converter and 4.10 gears. So perhaps your on the right path with the need for steeper gears and higher stall converter. I would up the converter to about 4000+ and go for the gears. But for the street I would imagine that much stall would suck.

Talk to you later!

 

Well I might say you are right but currently im running from my shorties to a 2.25 in Y pipe to a single 3" outlet !
Right now you have 2x plus the outlet area than I do.
Larger cube engines like ours need a minimum of a dual 3",especially mine because I rev alot higher than you placing much more demand on my restictive setup.
Actually next time at the track I am going to uncap the shorties
and see what happens.

 

Oh I thought your shorties were running into 3" pipes that is why I mentioned the 3" pipes.


Well I will tell you, after this weekend if dropping my exhaust is helping also, as I have to run it this weekend in NJ due to sound level restrictions. My exhaust is down to 2
in spots where they bent it. I was able to down at Keystone that day get 120 MPH trap speeds and 11.3 ETs, but then I dropped off the exhaust and then ran 11.1Xs.

There are several runs where I ran out of fuel from too low of levels, so those runs were tarnished. I am anxious to see if the exhaust was really hurting that much. I am hoping I turn as good of times, and I don't have to drop 1K on a new exhaust system this fall.

I personally like the way the car sounds with the exhaust off, it makes you feel more like your in a race car

I bet you gain some, but not a lot from the uncorking. Also make sure you leave the exhaust on the car, as the weight difference will tend to skew the results. That is where I think I might have gained some from dropping the exhaust. Hell that weights about 50-60 lbs. So for best comparison of what the exhuast in the sense of a restriction is, you should leave the weight there and just uncork them if possible.

Not sure on shorties, but are you concerned with getting cool air after a shutdown on your exhaust valves? I have heard bad things happen if they get cooled too quickly. I am not as I said real familiar with shorties, but you might want to check into that.

Again, Looking forward to seeing the results.

I will let you know how I do in NJ this weekend. I just have a feeling that rear is going to give it up this weekend out there, especially if the weather (DA) is good!

Talk to you later!

 

Cool, another great thread started by 87_TA. Keep up the good work! I just had one q. Is your 230/230 cam a hydraulic or solid roller? I was reading the new Popular Hot Rodding mag and they were giving away 7 easy power secrets. They were going on about how much better solid rollers were and that on a 400hp 350 they were worth about 25hp more than a hyd. roller that had a little bit more duration. It's making me think about sending my hyd. roller back and getting a solid roller.

 

Sorry 87_TA, I just noticed you're getting a new solid roller. I'm sure that'll help out big time with your intake.

 

Yeah my current is a Hyd.
Thanks for the good new about the solid roller,I really hope to see some gains.
By the way ,how does your car run Joe? looks like a pretty nice combo in your sig.

 

My cam and bottom end stuff is all sitting in my garage waiting to be installed. Right now I'm running the lpe 219 cam and I'm having problems with blowby and the car isn't running worth a crap. There's for sure somehting wrong with my rings or cylinder bores. I'll have the engine out by the end of the month and I"m going to have a reputable race shop do the bottom end and then I'm going to do a leakdown test before the engine goes back in the car. The best time with the 219 cam was a 13.2 at 102 on street tires.

 

Camero,

Think we talked about this before. But your having the same exact problems I believe that I had, with nearly the same ET/MPH.

It would be interesting if you find all the top rings broken in your engine to get the build numbers somehow and do some investigative work to see if maybe GM had a bad set of rings through that time period that is causing the broken ring problem...

My car only had 30K miles on it when I got it and I NEVER felt a big decrease in power or anything, so I think that the problem was present before I was the owner.

Let me know what you find when you pull it apart.

 

Ski, we did the engine last fall and my dad assembled the bottom end with a new set of cast stock type rings. These went on a set of hyperu..TRW pistons (junk) and I used 400 rods with a Scat 3.75 crank. We were told by the machine shop to grind the piston skirts so they would clear the crank. This is known to lead to ring failure another , plus there could be a number of other reasons why these rings failed. There could have been dirt that could have been in the oil that my dad dipped the pistons in, or here's what I think, the bores weren't finished (honed) properly for the pistons to seal. The bores could also not even be the right size, they may even be bored to 4.035 for all I know. There's even the possibility that all of these things contributed to my rings not sealing. I'll find out in the next couple of weeks.