Just discovered another wiring glitch that would have given me fits later on. It seems that I had the injector power wire tapping into an IGN feed, no juice in START. That would have been bad. Now, the question si this...would it be okay to just wire it directly to a BAT feed on the fuse box? I have a 7.5amp fuse wired inline to protect the whole thing, but I am kinda wary of running this straight to an ALWAYS HOT tap.

 

You should be fine, other then the fact that the positive side will always be hot i dont think it should cause any problems

 

I run mine directly to battery voltage. You should use a larger fuse though. Either a 10A for each injector or a 20A if feeding both. Both on will peak at 4A each for 8A total.

RBob.

 

Thanks. I guess I could wire a switch in the circuit too to take power out when the engine isn't running. Could be useful for troubleshooting down the line too.
Just saw that last post. The 7.5 amp fuse is too small? Okay. Cool. I have a 20amp fuse outside that I can use. I just used the fuse rating that the wiring diagram specified. Maybe I read it wrong.
Thanks again guys...

 

heh, that could be used as a kill switch

 

Or a REALLY tricky anti-theft device.
:lala:

 

heh thats what i meant

 

Batter->30A fuse-> relay triggered by Pink/Black key on power source-> injectors.

Fuse with 6" of battery.
10 ga wiring.
Shortest lenghts of wiring, and routing possible.
BOSCH Relay Only.

Disect all the relays you can, and you'll see why I say Bosch Only.

If you want to really bullet proof things, you'll do the same for the ignition.

The oem routing is dictated by the assembly line, and leaves alot to be desired. While you might read 0 ohms resistance there are high instantaneous loads, and changing the wiring on some cars makes a huge difference.