Anybody have and 870 ECU file they could email me????? I have an 870 in my 85 currently and would like to use TunerPro with it.

Captain C

 

Tunercat is the only one I konw of. I have searched far and wide, and nobody seems to have one. At least not one they would give up. Believe me, its easier to swap to a 165 than it is to find that ECU. -thats what I did.

 

I have the 165 sitting on my counter top. I also have an adapter harness to plug it into my existing harness. I have questions about the fan operation with this adapter and I had some A/C issues that may be related to the harness, but more likely related to the bin file in the chip.

I just checked my A/C high pressure switch and it's Normally Closed (NC). I need a bin file for the 165 that is for a NC high presure switch. I have a Prominator ordered and Mr. Bill is going to download a TPIS custom chip I had into it for a starting point. I'm just not sure how to tell in TunerPro whether the Bin file is Normally Open (NO) or NC. If anybody knows how to tell or how to change from one to the other I would love to hear about it!!!!!

Once I get all the bugs worked out of everything. I will convert the harness to 165 and the adapter to 165-730 so I can run a MAP sensor setup. Just not sure how much it's worth compared to the cost for the mild engine I have.....

 

Hi Captain C,
The A/C fan pressure switch for a 165 till 89 was close (NC) above is open (NO).
When you get the PROMinator you can load two BINS one at the position 1 with the switch put on NO and the other loaded at position 2 you put the switch on NC.
You start the car and see what happens, if the FAN starts to run with the A/C OFF that will be the incorrect one. You switch to the other BIN and the FAN should be stop.
See my screen shot to know where you can change the settings.
Under TunerPro you have the section “Flags” for a 165 with the “6Ev011.ecu” is located at the “4Tth Air Flow Mode Word”. You can see at bit #5 the FANNO that is the place.
In TunerPro you can hit the “F10” to get the window with help (information) like you can see on the screen shot.
I hope that this will help you.
Regards,
Cobra289

 

Thanks Cobra 289,

Currently I don't have all my fans tied into the computer which may have contributed to the demise of those many A/C units as well. Tieing all the fans in is something I want to do once I install the 165 ECM. The problem is the 85 Cars only have one fan instead of two. The 165 has two fans that come on and off at different times and for different reasons.

From the looks of TunerPro I will be able to change those settings and when they come on so it won't matter which wire I tie into. Since I currently have 4 cooling fans, I will use the factory relay output only as the trigger wire for the individual fan relays.

Since I still have the cold start injector, I should be able to run the 32 series bin instead of the $6E ARAP bin.

BTW, what's the difference between a 32 bin and a 32B bin? Is one for an auto and one for a manual or is there something else?

 

Hi Captain C,
Only one fan is connected to the ECM, the heavy duty fan is controlled by a separate “heavy duty coolant fan switch” In my case I use one with a setting of 203 F deg. #3053190 and it is located at the passenger head (Factory is rated at 230 F deg.)
4x Cooling fans ?????? Is your engine so hot?
The differences between the 32 and the 32B I thought that was the type of MAF (FM digital vs. analog).
See pictures to see how the fans are wired in an 87 Camaro.
ARAP is a good bin only be care full with Spark Advance, it should be reduced.
Cobra289

 

second picture

 

Yes, the car has run extremely hot! Of course it runs 100*F in Bakersfield quite often in the summer.

I have a BeCool radiator with two 1" aluminum cores, a Brass Works high flow radiator, Mr. Gasket high flow thermostat. A 16" and 10" fan behind the radiator and a 14" fan and a 10" fan in front of the condenser.

Since I swapped to the 30# injectors, the car runs cooler than it ever has by far!!!!! I know the car is running rich most of the time due to data logging, but it's correct at idle wher most of the heating problems are. I can only assume the car was running lean at idle. I've seen headers turn orange with heat on a race car that's running lean.

Being able to modify the programming is going to work wonders for the car!!!!! I might even be able to remove some of the extra fans if things work out.

Thanks for all the good info. BTW, I save all of this stuff for future reference.

 

If that's a low-temp thermostat (i.e. 160 or 170*) then your first change needs to be the fan turn-on and turn-off temps. I've seen cold 'stats cause overheating issues in cars with stock fan temp settings.

 

I would normally run a 160* in the summer and a 180* in the winter. I think it has a 195* in it right now (emergency use). It has run hot(ter) ever since I put the 350 in it 8 years ago. The 305 was ok except on a very hot day in heavy stop and go traffic. If I were to keep it out of O.D. around town it would probably help.

The current wiring configuration for the fans is for the 10" behind the radiator to run at all times. The 16" behind the radiator comes on at 205* and shuts off at 190 or 195* (which means change the Stat quick!!!!) controlled by a thermostatic fan switch in the passenger side head. I also have a manual override on this fan. The two fans in front of the condenser are controlled by the factory relay (i.e. the ECM). I've changed the fan on/off settings in the bin file I'm playing with. Just don't have everything in place yet to use the file......