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Autometer A/F Ratio Gauge

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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 12:39 AM
  #1  
scooter's Avatar
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From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Autometer A/F Ratio Gauge

Is my gauge a POS? I installed it in my car, black=ground, red=switched power and purple=signal to the correct pin to the ecm rather than to the O2 sensor in the engine compartment. I did some data loging and it shows that I am rich (I think over .45 volts is rich, right?) But the gauge shows that I am extremely lean.
I input all the data I got into VEPHD so I could get a bit closer in my tuning and I am REALLY rich according to that.
So am I wrong and over .45 is lean and the gauge is correct or is over .45 rich and the gauge is way off? Or should I maybe change the location of where I hook up the sensor, better at the sensor than the ecm?

Thanks
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 12:51 AM
  #2  
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From: Southwest Chicago 'burbs
narrowband o2's are only accurate at stoich (14.7:1). So the gauge's guess might be a little better than your own

If it's not to late, I'd return it and get your money back, and then put that towards the wideband you were mentioning in your other post.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 01:33 AM
  #3  
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From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Problem is I bought it a while ago and I just recently got to install it. I am going to get the WB regardless and I wanted to keep the A/F Gauge, I saw someone sells an adapter to convert the WB output to make a NB gauge show the linear output without it "swinging" back and forth. Could the gauge be really "confused" because I am so rich? I am getting like .9v at idle and the INT is at 70 or something. I just went and looked at the CSV after I wrote the thread.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 04:18 PM
  #4  
MikeT 88IROC350's Avatar
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From: Guilford, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 w/TransGo
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt w/3.73s
I would keep the guage. If you have it hooked up correctly to the stock O2 sensor, it can still give you some usefull info. Just don't look at the numbers. Just watch where the lights are when you drive and put the engine thru various conditions.

You can tell when you go closed loop, are in highway mode, decel mode, and in PE mode. When in closed loop, the lights should bounce back and forth around Stoic, that is if your tune is close.

I wouldnt mess with outputing your WB to the NB guage. You will need to datalog the WB.
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 04:51 PM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
....You will need to datalog the WB.

.... or build an LED output>>

Willie
Attached Thumbnails Autometer A/F Ratio Gauge-gauges-10.jpg  
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 09:00 PM
  #6  
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From: Gainesville, FL
Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
Originally posted by Willie
....You will need to datalog the WB.

.... or build an LED output>>

Willie
SES!!! SES!!!!!!!


SES!!!!!!!!!!

Had to, man. AWESOME gauge!
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Old Sep 11, 2004 | 10:37 PM
  #7  
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From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
But the problem is that the gauge shows the A/F to be really lean when in fact the car is running really really rich. Sometimes the gauge swings all the way across from lean to just before the green LED's. So do you think the gauge is malfunctioning, or is simply not able to display correctly because the A/F is so rich?
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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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From: wisconsin
my gauge showed about what i expected when i installed it. when BLMs stable it would show center of gauge(stoich area). AE/PE would push it into rich and deaccell moves to lean on gauge. just another toy in box with minimal value. the values in aldl data stream when dead centered on gauge and CL was .45 at idle.
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