I have stock 89 305 TPI w/ a 5-Speed.

My plans and ideas for the car change day to day; however, for the most part it will end up with a beefier rear, trans, and more cubic inches 454smallblock or possibly a supercharged/nitroused rebuilt small journal 327 (I love the sound), as well as a Mini-Ram or Holley Stealth Ram.

My 1st priority is the computer. I don't have the tools yet, nor the knowledge on reprogramming the memcal. With a 15 month old and another on the way...time has to be spent wisely. Based on reading some posts and the Traxion article...it appears the process of diving into the stock computer seems daunting for a beginner. Is it a user friendly method? From some posts there appears to be a big learning curve...especially for heavily modded engines.

Possibly I'm answering my own question...but do I need to go aftermarket for computer tuning?...or is using the stock ECM software sufficient for my needs? If aftermarket...are there any posts or articles for which is best with price comparison?

I'd like to dive into this as soon as possible. Just need a little guidance.

Thanks,
Any help or direction is appreciated.

 

The stock stuff (i.e. the '7730, or even the '165 MAF ECM that's in your car) is GREAT for driveability tuning. The programming is more complex than the aftermarket computers, but they can do a lot more as well.

Everything I've seen (including my own experience) says the best way to learn is to download a bin editing program and just play with it. Read and research things and play with the software...that'll help you get a feel for what can be changed and maybe what will need to be changed. It's also cost-free, so if you decide it's too much then you're not out any cash.

Then, when you're more comfortable with it, get set up to log data so you can see what's going on. Then get a chip burner or emulator and start changing stuff, and see what it takes to get the desired effect. The learning curve IS quite steep, but there's a lot of satisfaction available when you can get in your car on a 30* morning and bump the key and she fires right up and idles smoothly.....especially when it's a 216,000 mile engine.

That's my opinion....here's where I'll guide you: www.tunerpro.markmansur.com and www.moates.net

 

You need to better define what you want to do. For some real high HP applications the aftermarket SEFI ecms would offer an advantage, but for most about everything else one of the oem ones could be made to work well. You'll notice the aftermarket ecms is getting more and more like the oem ones, as far as complexity goes.

To be successful at either reguires a learning curve, and the higher levels of success, all require more commitment. Luck is rewarded to those that work hard enough to attain it.

 

Dont be afraid to print some of the articles, and read, and re-read them in your spare time.

Its nice to sit and read while not infront of the PC.

Ive had a list of questions, that I thought I would never find answers to, but youll be amazed, that in a short time things will start making sense.

 

Play with Vipers, run 9s in the qtr, silver state classic, when trophies in my class, draw attention of all the good-lookin gals, and envy from all...the usual.

So its not going to be easy with EFI, huh... No wonder most stay carbed. Well...I will get started with the cheap stuff since I don't plan to change the 305 till bout last anyway.

Here's my list: (Honestly...I don't know what the hell I'm looking at on these websites)

Option 1-
Pocket Programmer http://xtronics.com/memory/EPROM.htm#programmer
Tuner or RT Tuner (?) http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html
Some eproms Not memcals?
Eprom Eraser from digikey.com (couldn't locate it)

Or get an EEPROM and not use Eraser (Not sure where to get it).

Option 2 -

AutoProm Package (Version ?) and a chip adapter and ZIF (which one)? This comes with TunerPro?

Option 2 is $325+....not exactly cheap...but I'm ok with it if it will get me started real good and easy.

I also don't have a laptop, yet. I figured I'd get this stuff first, then get a laptop that would be sure to hook up/work with them.

I've tried reading beginner's posts, but I'm stuck. Moates website isn't very friendly to me...too much computer lingo. I need the STOCK ECM Tuning for Dummies.

So...what do I buy?

 

Read the stickies. The "Hardware: Adapters, Test Bench, Driver Boards, etc." in particular should help you decide on what interface you want to use.

I'd really recommend downloading a tuning program to play with and familiarize yourself. TunerPro is shareware (although Mark likes it when you donate) so it's a good one to go with. The "Software: BIN, Def, Source Code Editors, etc." sticky is a good place to start looking for software.


Read, read, and read some more. Eventually, things will start to connect and the more you learn, the easier it is to figure stuff out.

 

An eprom is inside the memcal.
If you want to eliminate the $35.00 price of an eraser, you can program EEPROMS, (electronic erasable prom). That way you can program over and over with these proms...This is THE way to go IMO. Maybe we should take this to the DIY prom board, before we get moved....Tom

Sorry, I did not realize where I was....I responded to this thread from my E-mail....Duh..Strike my last "maybe we should" comment

 

Option 3:
Burn1 and associated cables.

Option 4:
Prominator

For a fair price comparison, you should include the price of the Romulator since the Autoprom will emulate also. Don't recall if the Prominator will.
Emulate means your laptop is emulating the eeprom. So you can tune while the engine is running and get immediate results.
The Prominator is a great bang for the buck approach. But you have to leave it in the car.
The burn1 is the cheapest route IIRC. AP is the top of the line for multicar car tuning.
You need the memcal to match your engine and ecm as a base.
The adapter has to match your memcal. Craig has plenty of pictures on his site. So just go through them all and figure it out.
There's not that many adapters.

 

Start slow...

Buy
- Burn1 85$
- GP3 55$
- buy or make a ALDL cable
- Buy a cheap old laptop for scanning, a little bigger around 300mHz if you what to use it for emulation later.
-Download Tunerpro

Now you are set up to burn your own proms.

Then you could buy the
- romulator or
- Ostrich
and do real time tuning....

 

I had sent Craig Moates a general email, and he was kind enough to reply with the following:

The only difference between Craig's comments and gta324's post is the GP1 versus the GP3. Any particular reason why?
This seems like the best approach.

Also...what does (yours with USB) refer to by Laptop?


Appreciate all of the help. I'll continue to read the stickies at work..., uh...I mean spare time.

 

You should do ALOT of reading up on how the systems operate and what the sensors are and the values they are telling the system controller (ECM)
Without a pretty good understanding of the components of the systems you will still be guessing about what you are doing. Frustration will set in heavily at that point.
Burning the chips and such is the step AFTER you know what is is you want to change. The subtle details of the interactions of the operation is what takes all the time of reading and understanding. Then having the hardware to make the changes and seeing the results gives you the satisfaction of accomplishing something you set out to do.
Same thing goes with the "carb" guys. you could just put any old thing on and run, but if you understand how they work and how to adjust them then the benifits multiply.
The stuff available to program and emulate is great!
If you have limited funds to get the ultimate setup, then just start with the logging cable, cheapo laptop, Chip adapter, and a simple EEprom burner like Craig's "burn1".
If you have the extra cash available, by all means a Prominator, Ostrich or the AutoProm are a great convienence from removing chips during tuning, they each have thier place depending on the user.
The aspect of building a monster motor and just starting with EFI tuning will be a most difficult task (at least for me it is) Play around with your stock 305 and see some gains. You'll learn a ton before jumping up to a monster that will require alot of in depth knowledge to make "perfect".
Good luck!

 

I'm buying the list shown above by Craig Moates. I'll take it one step at a time.

This must mean the end of my Madden 2005 career!

Kind of like how the Crimson Tide keeps losing... I figured out they need to join the Sunbelt Conference. (Just in case your a BAMA Fan being in Tuscaloosa and all) I feel your pain though. I have a family member there pretty high up the food chain who gets a lot of flack. He's brought respectibility back to the program there, though.

War Eagle! And thanks to all who replied. It was all beneficial.

 

Honestly, the only thing Bama games mean to me is more traffic to deal with on the way home from work. I could care less about which kid can run down the field the fastest.....he can run all he wants and he still won't be as fast as my car.


So where are you located anyway? Close enough to visit? It would be nice to have someone to tune with.

 

Aftermarket vs OEM is like briefs or boxers. Both have their selling points but considering OEM is cheaper and more tailored to your vehicle ALREADY... and boxers are just more comfortable, nuff said.

 

I was also new to efi tuning about a year ago. I started out with a prominator instead of burning chips. It has been a very steep learning curve but I am finally getting good results in my tuning. Still room for improvement though. I would highly recomend using something like the prominator or autoprom so you dont have to mess with chips for each change if you go the OEM route.

 

That would be a great if I could do that. I'm from Dothan. Currently living in the Panhandle area near the Beach (Florida).
Never been to Tuscaloosa...Was always told to stay away from those Bama folk.

How did you know I wear briefs

I didn't like the Prominator idea because you can use it for only one car. I liked the AutoProm, but I think what I bought will allow me to buy the Ostrich and I would have the same thing. It will work out to only $15 more to go that route...or decide to go aftermarket. Also saves me some cash to spend on a laptop. I'm taking the "Go Slow" approach in that respect. If I'm wrong I still have time to change my order.