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6E hell on an 88 Iroc

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Old May 25, 2005 | 06:41 PM
  #1  
Mike86Z28's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 137
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From: Midwest City, Ok, USA
Car: 98 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
6E hell on an 88 Iroc

I have recently been having a problem with my 6E bins loaded on my PROMinator. The car will start up fine but then almost immediatly die and I cannot get the car started again no matter how hard I try. The only way I can run these bins is if I switch over to my 88 bin, start the car and then switch back over to my 6E bins.

Things I have done:
My cold start injector is unplugged
I have tried reloading my 6E bins multiple times
I have changed the Crank Fuel tables - both with stock and modded CF tables the car starts up and then dies
My bin switcher works and I datalogged to prove that
PROMinator has to be working if I can change over to my 88 Bin and start/drive all day long w/o any problems

The weird thing is the fact that my ARAP bin (w/ untouched S/A tables) starts up and at least the car stays running.

Could TunerPro 4 be causing a problem? I was using TunerPro 3 and didn't have a problem. Since I have changed out my HD in my laptop, I have been running TunerPro 4 and that seems about the time my 6E bins started giving me on and off trouble.

When this problem first started up, I would reload the bin and then the car would start right up. Now reloading the bin doesn't help at all.

I don't know WTF to think!?!

Can anybody help me out?

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Old May 25, 2005 | 09:39 PM
  #2  
Slow89Iroc-Z's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 888
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From: Oswego, IL
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350ci SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Did you disable VATS in the 6E bin?
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Old May 25, 2005 | 10:22 PM
  #3  
Mike86Z28's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 137
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From: Midwest City, Ok, USA
Car: 98 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by Slow89Iroc-Z
Did you disable VATS in the 6E bin?
I swear I did but I'll double check.
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Old May 25, 2005 | 11:21 PM
  #4  
JPrevost's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
What does a spark plug look like? That'll tell you what your starting problem is. Usually a start, stumble, stall but CAN restart immediatly is a lean problem. When it starts, stalls, stinks like fuel and doesn't restart for a while you're too rich. So I'm already leaning towards too lean which I HAVE had trouble with on the stock ARAP bin on any "hot" 350's. Vortec heads, AFR 190's, hot cam, LPE cams, super ram, SLP runners, you name it, it's always been too lean at idle when in closed loop. Just a little tweaking of the 1st MAF table and she they all pure like a kitten... well maybe a little nasty but still stable .
As for it being the prominator, have you tried using the "AA" mask ID to disable the checksum routine? Also, if your cam is bigger than stock in duration and overlap then you'll want to add more timing at idle. Is the min idle set properly? The $6E mask with the ARAP needs a low TPS voltage but the engine needs an higher min idle so that becomes a balancing act to get the TPS voltage down below .6volts.
Double check your base timing and make certain it matchs your "spark reference" in the chip.
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Old May 26, 2005 | 12:03 PM
  #5  
Mike86Z28's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 137
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From: Midwest City, Ok, USA
Car: 98 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Thanks for the replies guys. It ended up that my VATS was somehow enabled. I disabled it when I first started working on the bins but I guess something could have gotten crossed up in the mix. If the VATS was enabled the whole time, kinda weird that before I changed out my laptop hard drive my car would start fine with the exact same bins. Weird.

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Old May 29, 2005 | 12:51 AM
  #6  
Captain C's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 466
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
What does a spark plug look like? That'll tell you what your starting problem is. Usually a start, stumble, stall but CAN restart immediatly is a lean problem. When it starts, stalls, stinks like fuel and doesn't restart for a while you're too rich. So I'm already leaning towards too lean which I HAVE had trouble with on the stock ARAP bin on any "hot" 350's. Vortec heads, AFR 190's, hot cam, LPE cams, super ram, SLP runners, you name it, it's always been too lean at idle when in closed loop. Just a little tweaking of the 1st MAF table and she they all pure like a kitten... well maybe a little nasty but still stable .
As for it being the prominator, have you tried using the "AA" mask ID to disable the checksum routine? Also, if your cam is bigger than stock in duration and overlap then you'll want to add more timing at idle. Is the min idle set properly? The $6E mask with the ARAP needs a low TPS voltage but the engine needs an higher min idle so that becomes a balancing act to get the TPS voltage down below .6volts.
Double check your base timing and make certain it matchs your "spark reference" in the chip.
Started datalogging today for the first time since I changed the injector size to make up for the higher than 40 psi pressure. Everything looked very good up to 3K but 1200 and lower which is lean (140). Engine temp 205* Will do higher RPM stuff later...

Last night it died on me when I let off the gas on the freeway off ramp. Engine temp at the time was 210-215* (102* outside temp A/C not on) I almost didn't get it started.... I can tweak the 1st Maf table, for the idle, but what effect is that going to have when the engine is hot. I will probably be running 230-240* with the A/C (when fixed) and it being 105* outside. I can only imagine how bad it's going to get.... What direction should I go in? Do I need to add or remove timing in Startup spark advance vs coolant temp or correct the lean condition first?????
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Old May 29, 2005 | 08:03 AM
  #7  
Grumpy's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 1
From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by Captain C
What direction should I go in? Do I need to add or remove timing in Startup spark advance vs coolant temp or correct the lean condition first?????
Both, one is as important as the other. You have a Prominator, so load up several different .bins, and keep notes on how each does. You need ~10 mins in each position for temps to stabilize internally, so go slow, take good notes, and you'll get there quickly.
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Old May 29, 2005 | 10:31 AM
  #8  
Captain C's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 466
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
I hope to have a chance to correct the lean condition later today, after that I will change the timing if needed. I'm just not sure what adding timing will do or what removing timing will do.

The PROMinator was a great investment for a time challenged individual such as myself!!!!

Thanks for the help Grumpy!!!!!!

5/31/05:

Looked thorugh my chip again and saw where I had changed some off the wall stuff from base (for who knows what reason now) Changed them back to the baseline setting and everything is ok as far as the stalling issue goes. I think I have the lean issue at low RPM taken care of as well.

Now I want to look at the O2/IAC/knock counts to just to see what they look like and what they should look like. Time to go back and look at my notes again.....

Last edited by Captain C; May 31, 2005 at 04:12 PM.
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