I just finished my new 383 today and started it up, but the car sets a EST failure code. I do have the est wire connected and I set my base timing @12* and programmed my chip for it as well. Should I back it down to 6*? I have no other codes. And she does alot of bucking @ low speeds. I know Ill have to play with the timing and fuel tables a bit, but other than that it seems to run ok. Thanks in advance.

 

Well today I set my base timing to 8* and I burned a new chip for it and Im still getting that EST failure, Im not sure whats going on?

 

Is the SES light on solid while the engine is running? If not the code is probably left over from when the timing was set (w/EST connector open).

Al.

 

The intial timing, ie EST disconnected is only used when the engine first starts, and is under ~400 RPM. 6-8d, is fine, more then that, and you can have troubles with hot starting.


Do a chip with all the idle/ low rpm timing, set the same.
Then, hook up your scanner and see what the computer is commanding timing wise. Then, hook up your timing light, and see if the numbers are close. Yes, there's a fair amount of *flicker* in the timing, but you should see if your at least close.

BTW, this is the time to get one of em dial back timing lights if you don't have one.

 

I did clear the code for inital setting of the timing with the est wire disconnected, so no, thats not why the ses light is on.

I Will check out what you said Grumpy, and I do have a dial back timing light With the EST failure code set, what is the computer going to do with my timing? Thanks again.

 

OK, just wanted to make sure. A lot of folks don't know that the EST code stays after setting the timing.

With the EST code set the ECM will lock the timing at the distributor. It will stay at the base setting until about 1600-1800 RPM where the limp mode advance will kick in.

As for the EST error it may be the ignition module is bad, or the wiring between it and the ECM is bad. The ECM is getting the DRP's otherwise it wouldn't be running. So I'd look at the EST and BYPASS wires and connectors/pins between the distributor and ECM, then the ignition module.

Al.

 

Well it turns out that during the install of the 383 I must of gotten the fan switch and the knock sensor wires mixed up. Thats what was the problem was. Switched them back and no more code. (dk. blue is knock sensor and gray is fan switch ) Thanks to all who responed.

 

You realise that this would have set an ESC code (43), not an EST code (42). With the result being the above advice isn't really much help at all.

RBob.