According to TunerProRT, after i recorded myself driving the car regularly, and going Wide Open Throttle with it, the oxygen sensor is supposedly reading anywhere from 17.0 mV up to 950 mV..... its like all over the place. When i open the car up, it stays in the 900 mV range.... then when i let off, it stays in the 800 mV range, then after the car slows down it jumps down to like 17 mV, and keeps jumping from 20-800 sparatically. is this normal???

i'm only asking b/c in TunerProRT when anything is bad, or abnormal, the text turns RED instead of being the normal BLACK color. if anyone can help it would be really appreciated. thank you

 

The 950 when WOT may be a little high, but that's based on your tune. The jumping around while normal driving is completely normal. That's the way it's supposed to work.

 

Oh alright cool. thanks a lot.

 

Also the red text you are seeing is called "Alarms". You can set them up in the .ads editor to alarm high or alarm low at any given value. For example:

I set my TPS% to alarm high at 62% (where i had PE set to start) that way when i was in PE mode i could easily tell by by just looking at the TPS% and seeing if it was red or not. Thats just an example. There are several other things you can do with the alarm high and alarm low option.

 

Oh, awsome, that sounds like a really useful tool. thanks!

 

dont mean to thread jack here but what is "PE"

 

PE=Power Enrichment=More Fuel and Usually more timing.

 

ok thanks

 

haha i was wondering that too actually LOL thanks

 

My 02 is around 972 at wide open throttle.

 

hmm that sounds about the same, btw your ride looks freakin clean, also 3rd gen's freakin rock, just look at that beaut' hell, mines got 250,000+ miles and its still holding up just fine best 900 dollar purchase i've ever made

 

Mine is around 950-1000mv at WOT.

 

well alright, i guess this is 'normal'

 

I know this is an old thread, but why reinvent the wheel.

Should the O2 sensor reading be constant at idle? Mine only fluctuates 20 mV peak to peak. I've read on the net that at idle the O2 reading should have a large peak to peak voltage swings, like 0.9V. The O2 reading is the top line in the pic.

 

Depends if feedback loop is opened or closed. A coolant temp of 160*F w/724 O2mv indicates a part throttle AFR (13.8) at an 850-RPM idle state. Either Open Loop idle, or an Open Loop tune.

- Rob

 

I remembered last night that I still have WinALDL installed from a while back, I started WinALDL up and it shows the O2 sensor voltage oscillating as it should. I then ran TunerPro and it showed it steady. TunerPro must average the O2 voltage.

I have locked out closed loop in the past, but in that screen shot it is in closed loop. BLMs are just pegged at 108. Started doing that with the new throttle body. This engine has never run right since I put on a 52mm BBK throttle body because the stock throttle body's bearings went bad and had to be replaced. Was hoping my new Bosch O2 sensor just happened to go bad at the same time. Now that I know the O2 sensor is operating properly guess I need to start looking at other things/threads. I'll look at that part throttle thing you mentioned for sure, that would cause the running rich issue. The bin is the 6E APYM bin off a reputable site. I've compared the tune to a WT1500 tune and everything jives.

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

BLM's are at 108, but the INT appears to be locked at 128, so you don't have any O2 correction which is why the O2 sensor is steady state. A 108 BLM should be a lot higher than 724 O2mv, upwards of 900mv plus. Very possible your O2 sensor is not getting hot enough. Are you running headers, 160* thermostat, or a constant fan by any chance...?

- Rob

 

Yeah, I have the Hooker shorty headers for our cars and a 160 degree thermostat, the fan isn't constant though, I actually haven't adjusted the fan parameters, they are still stock at 226 on and 221 off.

 

Might try a acdelco afs74

 

I'll give it a try, just ordered the acdelco afs74 and plug,

 

update? how did this new heated O2 work out ?

 

They work great if you have problems with dropping into open loop at idle in cold weather, etc. Had one when I was still using a stock/modded-stock ECU (yuck).

GD