I am about to purchase this wideband 02 sensor and controller for my system and I'm wondering who has run this setup. I'm on a budget and I want to spend some money on a reliable, quick 02 sensor, along with controller, that I can wire up to my EBL computer system to dial in my AE, DC, fuel tables, etc. Anybody had any problems with them? Is the setup reliable for a few thousand miles? How exactly does it work, does the VE learn automatically use the wideband over the narrow band and use them to make perfect VE learns? And then I can take it off and watch my BLMs perfect all day long? Then I can use the WB to work on the finer parts of my tune afterwards, like dialing in the AE, PE, DE, etc...?

Also, does anybody have any serious issues with advancing the timing a few degrees a few cells at a time until I get knock, then retarding it one or two degrees? It would seem that this would work for high power and WOT sessions, but not be so reliable when it comes to cruising speeds, because the engine can take a lot more timing past its "optimal timing", but before the point of knock, than the engine can at WOT. Is this accurate engine theory or am I way off? I just kinda thought out the concept of spark advance and managed to get that out of it. Does it make any sense?

 

I have the LC-1 hooked into the EBL. I did the WB learn first, then the BLM learn. The wibeband is instrumental in getting your AE, lean cruise, and WOT fueling dialed in right IMO. I also have n2o, so it helps me with getting the system bugs all worked out. I have the n2o controlled by the EBL also. I can't say I've had much luck with my LC-1 though. I've had it less than 8 months and the first one was bad out of the box, the second went bad in 2 weeks, the third crapped out after about 2 months, and this one has been giving me the fits lately. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. This may bring in some other opinions, but if it worked all the time for ME, I'd be happier. My friend has the LM-1 with absolutely no problems.

 

Hmm. I was under the impression that the LC-1 was just like the LM-1 minus all the goodies?

What exactly "went out"? The sensor itself? The controller? How did it fail?

 

For me it was the controller. The DRAC, whatever that is, went bad. I had no analog outputs. IOW, the EBL couldn't read it. The first time it wouldn't even calibrate. I tried my buddies sensor, all 3 times it was the unit. The wiring is and was done right. I ouwld hit the innovate message board and read the posts in the LM-1 and LC-1 areas. What happened to me is nothing new. You may even see some of my posts. In any case, these are my experiances. The only thing the LM-1 and LC-1 share is the VW bosch sensor.

 

I ran mine most of last summer with no issues. Scaling was my biggest problem because I kept changing it for different bins. The unit and sensor work fine though.
Allot of the problems I have read about concern voltage differentials that can happen when cranking. Mainly due to the grouds ending up at differentials higher than the outputs could handle. I thought I had read they fixed that problem on later units but do a little reading on the Innovate forums to see how the grounds should be done to avoid the problem. Even if they said it was fixed, its still best to avoid the problem.

 

I had an LM-1 wired in semi-permanently to a 16197427 PCM for two years and about 6 months ago switched to an LC-1. Works great but I also sprung for the XD-16 gauge which I really like. The sensors lasted for about 15k miles each before they died. I have posted before where you can find replacement sensors cheap, like $42 on the net so that takes the sting out a little. The one area that I have found that is a weak spot is the Innovate cable. Every sensor I had die, died because water got in the connector. I have since put vulcanizing tape around the exposed area of the connector and have had no more problems. HTH

 

I had the LC1 attached to the EBL as well. I went through three control units too, before getting a full refund.

 

Sounds like they are quite problematic. Should I go for the ZT-2? Whats the cheapest version of it I can buy? I dont necessarily need the display, so if I could just buy the controller and sensor and save some money that would be cool.

 

I know that with my LM-1, it doesnt work well when Im cranking the engine. The screen scrambles and the thing locks up. Just a WAG, but it may be an issue of voltage spikes due to the inductive kick-back of the starter. Maybe try a relay that doesnt allow it to power up until the engine has started.

 

Innovates site recommends that you wire the unit to power that is off during cranking. On most GM vehicles, radio power is off during crank due to the radio's sensitivity to voltage spikes. Just FYI

 

I remember that as well. Every now and then when I use it, though, I forget to switch it off while cranking and it really screws it up.

 

Just installed the LC-1 in my car last night and the problem seems to lie in the 2.5mm stereo connection. When I was in "program" mode it kept saying to turn on the unit when if fact it was on, then moving the junction around it would suddenly work. Since the serial cable that came with it is only going to be used with the wbo2, I considered hardwiring the serial to the controller.

 

I have the ZT-2 plugged into an A/D port on EBL. Works flawlessly. Make sure you have unit properly grounded.