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10deg retard STILL

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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 08:39 AM
  #1  
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From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
10deg retard STILL

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I keep getting 10 degrees of retard from 3200 - 4200 rpm with kpa values in the 95+ range. I've since pulled a total of 15 degrees in that area and am still getting 10 degrees of retard. I've pulled 5 degrees 3 times.
What gives? My WB02 readings in that area are 12.5 & 11.9.
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 09:53 AM
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Re: 10deg retard STILL

Did you reset the computer after pulling timing each time? I beleive it could be the result of residual "learned" values.

Plus I seem to remember if your AFR is lean when you go WOT then it stays lean during WOT but the WB doesn't seem to indicate that so N/M.

Does this happen only while WOT?
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Old Nov 9, 2007 | 07:55 PM
  #3  
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From: Bartlett, IL
Car: 92 ZR-1
Engine: LT-5
Transmission: ZF-6
Axle/Gears: SuperDana 44 4.10
Re: 10deg retard STILL

What do your plugs look like? Are there little black specks in the insulator?
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
Re: 10deg retard STILL

Yes. Only WOT. So even though i'm pulling the eeprom and reprogramming it, I still need to pull the fuel pump/ecm fuse to reset the ecm? I take it that the "memory" is on the memcal and not the eeprom?

I just pulled 4 of my plugs, 2 in each head, to check 'em out. They look brand spanking new. There are only ~150 miles on them at the moment. I'm actually thinking that i'm on the threshold of being lean. According to my datalogs I am a bit lean in some areas. I was hoping they'd be at least a tad bit tan. I know there's a plug reading thread around here somewhere. I'll find it.
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 02:50 PM
  #5  
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From: Bartlett, IL
Car: 92 ZR-1
Engine: LT-5
Transmission: ZF-6
Axle/Gears: SuperDana 44 4.10
Re: 10deg retard STILL

Originally Posted by Viprklr
Yes. Only WOT. So even though i'm pulling the eeprom and reprogramming it, I still need to pull the fuel pump/ecm fuse to reset the ecm? I take it that the "memory" is on the memcal and not the eeprom?

I just pulled 4 of my plugs, 2 in each head, to check 'em out. They look brand spanking new. There are only ~150 miles on them at the moment. I'm actually thinking that i'm on the threshold of being lean. According to my datalogs I am a bit lean in some areas. I was hoping they'd be at least a tad bit tan. I know there's a plug reading thread around here somewhere. I'll find it.
How are you tuning WOT? Are you using a WB? just a hunch but I'll bet you're running too lean which is why pulling tiing isn't helping much.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 10:38 AM
  #6  
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From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
Re: 10deg retard STILL

Originally Posted by Viprklr
My WB02 readings in that area are 12.5 & 11.9.
Yep. Running WB. I want to lean it out a bit up there but the timing issue is preventing it. I'm looking to get about 13.3 or so at WOT.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 11:21 AM
  #7  
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From: GA
Car: '90 C1500
Engine: SBC MPFI
Transmission: 4L80e
Axle/Gears: 4.30
Re: 10deg retard STILL

Originally Posted by Viprklr
Yep. Running WB. I want to lean it out a bit up there but the timing issue is preventing it. I'm looking to get about 13.3 or so at WOT.
Since you have adjusted the timing that much...try adjusting the A/F ratio. Also, have you checked to see if your headers/exhaust is hitting the frame causing false knock.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 11:50 AM
  #8  
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From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
Re: 10deg retard STILL

I'll check the A/F ratio. I just had the final clearancing and welding done for my headers. There's no more chance of exhaust hitting issues.
I just did a short blast yesterday in those ranges and had only 6 degrees of retard. All I did differently was pulling the ECM fuse and it was the first blast after the header clearancing.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #9  
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From: GA
Car: '90 C1500
Engine: SBC MPFI
Transmission: 4L80e
Axle/Gears: 4.30
Re: 10deg retard STILL

Originally Posted by Viprklr
I'll check the A/F ratio. I just had the final clearancing and welding done for my headers. There's no more chance of exhaust hitting issues.
I just did a short blast yesterday in those ranges and had only 6 degrees of retard. All I did differently was pulling the ECM fuse and it was the first blast after the header clearancing.
I would lean it out some and make sure your exhaust still ain't hitting when the engine torques at WOT.

How about the valvetrain...is it noisy and do you have a lot of piston slap?
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 08:18 PM
  #10  
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From: 600 yds out
Car: Bee-Bowdy
Engine: blowd tree-fity
Transmission: sebin hunnerd
Axle/Gears: fo-tins
Re: 10deg retard STILL

I had a problem once where my knock sensor wire was picking up interference from the plug wires thru the dipstick tube. I had recently installed headers and had wrapped the signal wire around the tube to keep it off the primary.
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 07:45 AM
  #11  
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From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
Re: 10deg retard STILL

I do have an exhaust vibration somewhere. Haven't been able to find it yet. Of course it stops as soon as I hit the floor.
Haven't been able to mess around with the retard much lately. The car's surging issue suddenly went to the extreme south. To the point of 800rpms. Bad at stoplights. Died a couple of times. I believe that surge is finally gone. The replacement Ostrich AND the new distributor shaft seems to have limited my surge to 50-100rpm. I'm getting there.

My KS wire is behind the starter.
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