BIN changes before starting new engine
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 82
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From: Gold Coast, Australia
Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: Nothing but air
Axle/Gears: Four stands
BIN changes before starting new engine
Hi guys I want some help getting my bin ready for when I start up my new engine. I have read, re-read and read again all the tuning articles and just want a check-list of things I should change before I fire up my engine.
I'm tuning with TunerPro RT and starting with a standard 89 camaro bin with the 6E.XDF. My engine is an L98 350 with GM HOT cam kit and Patriot alloy heads. The intake has a BBK throttle body, ported plenum, SLP runners and edelbrock manifold and Ford 24# injectors.
I know I will need to change my injector constant to suit my 24# injectors and disable VATS. What else should I change before I start up my motor?
I'm tuning with TunerPro RT and starting with a standard 89 camaro bin with the 6E.XDF. My engine is an L98 350 with GM HOT cam kit and Patriot alloy heads. The intake has a BBK throttle body, ported plenum, SLP runners and edelbrock manifold and Ford 24# injectors.
I know I will need to change my injector constant to suit my 24# injectors and disable VATS. What else should I change before I start up my motor?
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2002
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From: California
Car: Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Re: BIN changes before starting new engine
I'm assuming you are running headers and probably do not have a heated O2 sensor yet?
You might consider disabling closed loop (set the enable temp to 255) so that you don't have to deal with it right away when you're breaking in the new engine. The combo of cam + headers + non heated O2 might be just enough to start causing some (probably minor) issues.
You might also consider bringing the idle speeds up a bit, 6E has idle speeds down to 600 IIRC whereas the HOT cam might want to be around 700 or so to smooth it out a bit.
just a few thoughts.
You might consider disabling closed loop (set the enable temp to 255) so that you don't have to deal with it right away when you're breaking in the new engine. The combo of cam + headers + non heated O2 might be just enough to start causing some (probably minor) issues.
You might also consider bringing the idle speeds up a bit, 6E has idle speeds down to 600 IIRC whereas the HOT cam might want to be around 700 or so to smooth it out a bit.
just a few thoughts.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 82
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From: Gold Coast, Australia
Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: Nothing but air
Axle/Gears: Four stands
Re: BIN changes before starting new engine
Thanks for the reply. I am running headers but before I start I was planning on getting a heated sensor. I was just reading about disabling open loop last night. I will do this until I run the engine in and get my closed loop running right.
Good point with the idle. I hadn't thought of speeding it up. That should stop it stalling until I get it running right.
After many hours of reading I made a few changes. Here is a list of what Iv done so far:
-Disabled VATS
-Disabled EGR setting the disable EGR if MAT<X to maximum temp and I set the two EGR enable if TPS>X & EGR duty cycle=0 to 0.00. Is that right or should they be set to max as well?
-Set single and double fire FI size @ 40psig to 24#
-Changed MAF tables and scalers to ARAP ones. I read that ARAP had the better tables and scalers.
Changed fan on to 180 and off to 178. I will adjust that latter to suit which ever thermostat I end up using.
-Changed crank fuel PW multiplier vs. ref. pulse. I changed ref. pulse #3 to #8 to 0.50 to help it fire faster.
Hopefully this will be enough to get me started. Than it will be a matter of tunning my fuel and ignition.
The amount of info I find on this site never fails to amaze me. It takes ages to sort out all the info you don't need but if you take the time you can always find the answer your looking for.
Good point with the idle. I hadn't thought of speeding it up. That should stop it stalling until I get it running right.
After many hours of reading I made a few changes. Here is a list of what Iv done so far:
-Disabled VATS
-Disabled EGR setting the disable EGR if MAT<X to maximum temp and I set the two EGR enable if TPS>X & EGR duty cycle=0 to 0.00. Is that right or should they be set to max as well?
-Set single and double fire FI size @ 40psig to 24#
-Changed MAF tables and scalers to ARAP ones. I read that ARAP had the better tables and scalers.
Changed fan on to 180 and off to 178. I will adjust that latter to suit which ever thermostat I end up using.
-Changed crank fuel PW multiplier vs. ref. pulse. I changed ref. pulse #3 to #8 to 0.50 to help it fire faster.
Hopefully this will be enough to get me started. Than it will be a matter of tunning my fuel and ignition.
The amount of info I find on this site never fails to amaze me. It takes ages to sort out all the info you don't need but if you take the time you can always find the answer your looking for.
Last edited by AUS-IROC; Feb 16, 2008 at 03:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Gold Coast, Australia
Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: Nothing but air
Axle/Gears: Four stands
Re: BIN changes before starting new engine
Unfortunately I didn't know about DIY prom tunning when I had my car running so I didn't get to test all this out on a standard engine first. I Know someone with a TPI firebird so I might try data logging his car before I start mine.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: Gold Coast, Australia
Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: Nothing but air
Axle/Gears: Four stands
Re: BIN changes before starting new engine
Just to clarify would I run the engine in with open loop or closed loop? I will be using a heated O2 sensor.
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From: CT
Car: Used to drive a camaro
Re: BIN changes before starting new engine
Get in going in open loop first. Then when you start dialing it in set the enable temp for closed loop back to the original temp.
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