Ima make 3 pulls and im going to datalog on my EBL Flash. Then ill post a copy of my BIN so that maybe someone can give me some advice on what settings might be helpful. Ill disable highway lean cruise and EGR, thats all that needs to be done before the pulls, correct? Should I pay the 10$ extra to have them hookup wideband? Or would that information not really be helpful on the datalog?

So if anyone would be so kind to take a look at my BIN/datalog and recommend what should be changed that would be great!

 

For WOT dyno pulls no need to disable hiway or EGR.

Absolutely get a WB reading.

Log the first pull, have them operator back off the pull if the WB AFR goes too lean, too rich, or knock counts become excessive. No need to hurt the motor.

Then look at the WB AFR from their log and match it to your log of RPM and MAP.

Make corrections to the VE table for AFR.

Make corrections to the SA PE table (or main & extended) for any knock.

Flash that calibration.

Make another pull and repeat.

Once the AFR is in line and the motor isn't knocking, you can then make spark timing adjustments to test for max power.

Add 2 degrees and see if it make more power. This gets to be fun as there may be an area that makes less power and another area that makes more power. The area being the RPM based.

Note the MAP reading in the log. It won't always be 100 KPa even at WOT.

If an area makes less power with the added spark timing, back it out there.

If an area makes more power with the spark advance then leave it. Or, try a degree or 2 more in that area.

If knock occurs then back out the timing. Roughness in the motor is also a sign of too much timing.

It is a process of adjusting the AFR and SA for best power. A safe AFR for power is 12.8 to 1. Anywhere within 13 to 12.5 is OK. Although tending to the rich side is safer.

If running a cat then the AFR should go a lot richer in the mid-range. This is to put it out for protection. Folks always mention how rich GM runs the calibrations. This is a major reason why.

Let the engine cool a bit between pulls. They can wait while you peruse the data and change the calibration. Flashing only takes a second or two. Try to stay calm and concentrate on what you are doing.

I always have the "Set Bank Active" option checked on the Flash screen. Important as it makes sure that the next drive/run/puull is on the bank just flashed.

Don't forget to seatbelt the laptop in. It gets hard on them if they go through the rollers.

RBob.

 

Hmm, I guess ill just pay the 125$ for the WB and 1 hour unlimited pulls then.

Thanks man, ill post my numbers, my terrible tuning skills ill be happy to get 5hp out of the tune, lol.

 

146rwhp, 269rwtq
On a dynopack. Only had like 130hp stock and like 190tq.... They said dynopack is like 10% less then a lot of the other dyno but the numbers still seem low after all that work i put into tuning it

 

SO....you gained 79rwtq? Don't seem so sad about that. Torque is what moves you......

The hp sounds a bit low for even a peanut cam motor from what others have reported at dyno days.

How did the afr read?

 

It started off like 10 or 11 afr, now its like 12.5 i think? I cant really remember, lol.

All I know is with my big fuel pump and big fuel lines it was running super super super rich at first now its running pretty good far as afr goes, I just dont get why my hp is so low

The tq is only like 240, we just got it so high when i took the air filter off and just had the opened up throttle body to get the 269

My rwhp is very very flat though, which is good, at like 2700rpm i went from only 50hp too 130, so my numbers went up, just not really my peak.

tq peaks at 2500rpm [with the air filter off] and the peak with the air cleaner on is like 238 or so at maybe 3050 or 3100rpm. hp is within 5hp of peak from 3100rpm too 4100rpm which is real good i think.

 

If anyone wants to take a look at the bin i came up with that would be great, maybe some advice on if i can get a little more out of her?

I had the guys at the shop help me tune it, and someone changed the checksum too near the max, up from 451? No idea what the checksum is but should I put it back or what?

And the shop had a 1991[?] 305TPI camaro with only a cat-back and he was only making like 5 more hp then me and about the same tq wise. And their rated for like 35 more hp stock. So maybe with my exhaust and tune im not doing so bad?

 

Sounds like you had a good time at the dyno session. I wouldn't worry about the absolute HP & TQ numbers from a chassis dyno. They will vary from one dyno to another way too much.

As for the checksum being changed, Tuner Pro (TP) will calculate and update that value each time the BIN is saved. TP also creates a log of what calibration entries are changed for each BIN. You can check that to see what the guy changed. If it was the checksum don't even worry about it.

The tq is only like 240, we just got it so high when i took the air filter off and just had the opened up throttle body to get the 269

This is something to look into. A 29 ft/lb loss from the aircleaner (and a dual snorkel at that) seems to be too much. If the heat risers & heat flaps are still in place they may be interfering with the intake stream.

I've seen where the flaps stay in the full heat position. Which not only heats the incoming air but is also a more restrictive path.

All in all it was a successful trip to the dyno. Getting the WOT AFR in line is a good step toward a better tune. Can you post a picture of the HP/TQ/AFR graph from a later pull? Maybe the one with the aircleaner off.

I guess the other question is, how's it run now? It should just keep pulling & pulling.

RBob.

 

i also would like to see the dyno graph thats a big loss off of an air cleaner.

 

They just gave me the dyno graph, but they keep all the information saved on their computer, so I think its like 5$ or 10$ and they will print out additional pages of information.

Ill take a picture of my hp/tq chart and upload it

Also it wasent just the air cleaner the changed we did edit the bin before that last run [purple], also i checked the flaps they stay open all the time, ive never seen them let hot air in. And I have a K&N xstream top so it can get air from the top [especially when the hoods open like a dyno run]

here it is-

 

i used to work at a shop with a dyno and 4 times we removed those k&n tops and put a stock lid on. it picked up every time. been a few years now but i believe it was like 10hp ish, they were all carb'ed cars but still.

if you still have the stock lid, it may be worth bring with you the next time you go to do some pulls. just swap it in and out to see if it helps or hurt.

 

Well im going to go with a Wynjammer supercharger, so the air lid and stuff isent much of a worry to me.

but thats interesting.

 

Well im going to go with a Wynjammer supercharger, so the air lid and stuff isent much of a worry to me.

but thats interesting.

 

delayed double post

 

Nothing to say about my dyno sheet guys?

 

The reason your hp is so low is because the rpm at which peak torque is made is at such a low rpm. Rember hp is tq vs rpm, more or less. And rpm is a multiplier. If you where to retard the cam a few degress it would shift the torque up a little higher in the rpm range and hp would raise significantly.

 

Retard the cam? So when I get my new engine goodies I should see a huge boost in power?

 

you got to remeber everything works as a package, your intake and heads have to be made for higher rpm power too or esle your going to have a mix match of parts and things are going to be fighting each other.

 

Yeh im not too sure 100% about everything im going to get, but whatever parts i decide on ill try to match their rpm power as best i can.
Thanks.