pwdbychevy
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I datalogged today using Datamaster and during a WOT run I noticed that my spark advance only reads 32.7 deg at WOT at any rpm above 3000 but I have 35.86 deg in the main table. Why is it doing this? My base timing is set to 12deg. My PE spark table is zeroed out and I am using the main spark table for all timing. $8d 7730 saujpv4. Thanks in "advance"
pwdbychevy
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anybody?
pwdbychevy
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Any takers? Could it be that knock is detected and no allowing it to go to 36deg?
JP86SS
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Check the table bias value and the temperature compensation.
Could be one of those or knock like you said.
Could be one of those or knock like you said.
does idle and cruise timing show correct?
pwdbychevy
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The idle sort of matches the SA closed throttle table. It's set at 22.50 and the spark adv fluctuates between 19 and 24deg. The cruise timing shows correct at 45deg at 2800rpm at 50kpa.Originally Posted by gta324
does idle and cruise timing show correct? pwdbychevy
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Could be one of those or knock like you said.
The correction bias temp table is set at 20.04deg.Originally Posted by JP86SS
Check the table bias value and the temperature compensation.Could be one of those or knock like you said.
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Could be one of those or knock like you said.
What does the temp compensation tableOriginally Posted by JP86SS
Check the table bias value and the temperature compensation.Could be one of those or knock like you said.
look like
pwdbychevy
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I have an SD system and this is the only spark temp correction table I could find unless there's another one that I'm missing.
Check your log for any knock detection and spark retard for that knock. It could be false because at your air fuel and that spark advance with your compression/heads, i dont think you'll have any detonation/knock counts.
I use tunerpro rt and when i do a run, i'll have my spark retard function open and read that along with my main timing and see if it matches. Thing is, usually max timing will still be displayed correctly but the retard will show negative spark, which is how much its pulling. May be the same with your datamaster but i'm not sure.
Also, does your engine base timing match whats in the chip for base reference timing? If its not, it may be abit retarded.
I use tunerpro rt and when i do a run, i'll have my spark retard function open and read that along with my main timing and see if it matches. Thing is, usually max timing will still be displayed correctly but the retard will show negative spark, which is how much its pulling. May be the same with your datamaster but i'm not sure.
Also, does your engine base timing match whats in the chip for base reference timing? If its not, it may be abit retarded.
pwdbychevy
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I use tunerpro rt and when i do a run, i'll have my spark retard function open and read that along with my main timing and see if it matches. Thing is, usually max timing will still be displayed correctly but the retard will show negative spark, which is how much its pulling. May be the same with your datamaster but i'm not sure.
Also, does your engine base timing match whats in the chip for base reference timing? If its not, it may be abit retarded.
Base timing does match what's on the chip. There is knock at high rpms but I believe it's from the gear drive. The car pulls very strong(I think I've reached that 400rwhp mark Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Check your log for any knock detection and spark retard for that knock. It could be false because at your air fuel and that spark advance with your compression/heads, i dont think you'll have any detonation/knock counts.I use tunerpro rt and when i do a run, i'll have my spark retard function open and read that along with my main timing and see if it matches. Thing is, usually max timing will still be displayed correctly but the retard will show negative spark, which is how much its pulling. May be the same with your datamaster but i'm not sure.
Also, does your engine base timing match whats in the chip for base reference timing? If its not, it may be abit retarded.
)Ahhh, probly false knock. There is a table you can limit how much timing is pulled when knock is detected. I turned mine down to like 2 degrees over the 10-15 it was. You could eliminate it if your comfortable doing so. Your tune should be ok. AFR's have good chambers, like i've said i've run lean and mean with alot of timing no problems detected. Your tune should be safe so you can desensitize the knock sensor
JP86SS
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That's the one I was talking about.Originally Posted by pwdbychevy
I have an SD system and this is the only spark temp correction table I could find unless there's another one that I'm missing. With a bias value of 20, and the temp table flattened at 20, you'll have what is in the main table (after warmup, not closed throttle) and without retard happening.
Sounds like it is some kind of retard happening.
I get some retard at odd times without seeing any knock counts too and when not even beating on it. I've always figured it was just getting to the KS frequency threshold or something, not sure how much effect there is before a knock count actually registers.
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I was thinking false knock also. I've heard of guys putting copper washers or 90deg bends between the knock sensor and the block to act as a filter. I just went ahead and zeroed out the PE knock retard tables. I'd like to get rid of the gear drive but I love that whine! People think I have a supercharger.Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Ahhh, probly false knock. There is a table you can limit how much timing is pulled when knock is detected. I turned mine down to like 2 degrees over the 10-15 it was. You could eliminate it if your comfortable doing so. Your tune should be ok. AFR's have good chambers, like i've said i've run lean and mean with alot of timing no problems detected. Your tune should be safe so you can desensitize the knock sensor pwdbychevy
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With a bias value of 20, and the temp table flattened at 20, you'll have what is in the main table (after warmup, not closed throttle) and without retard happening.
Sounds like it is some kind of retard happening.
I get some retard at odd times without seeing any knock counts too and when not even beating on it. I've always figured it was just getting to the KS frequency threshold or something, not sure how much effect there is before a knock count actually registers.
I've seen knock counts register with no spark retard and vice versa. It's weird.Originally Posted by JP86SS
That's the one I was talking about.With a bias value of 20, and the temp table flattened at 20, you'll have what is in the main table (after warmup, not closed throttle) and without retard happening.
Sounds like it is some kind of retard happening.
I get some retard at odd times without seeing any knock counts too and when not even beating on it. I've always figured it was just getting to the KS frequency threshold or something, not sure how much effect there is before a knock count actually registers.
sounds wierd...
If you like post/email *bin + log file and I can take a look.

If you like post/email *bin + log file and I can take a look.
pwdbychevy
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If you like post/email *bin + log file and I can take a look.
Here you go.Originally Posted by gta324
sounds wierd...
If you like post/email *bin + log file and I can take a look.
pwdbychevy
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If you like post/email *bin + log file and I can take a look.
Were you able to view the files?Originally Posted by gta324
sounds wierd...
If you like post/email *bin + log file and I can take a look.
JP86SS
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Suggestions:
1.) You have the low octane routine enabled.
Put them back to 00 until you find the actual problem. This may be masking part or all of it.
2.) You have OL idle and CL idle thresholds both set to 00.
If you wish to disable this function just set them low (as they were) so CL idle happens at 500 RPM rising and it will drop into OL if RPM drops below 350 falling.
Those settings effectivly disable the OL idle routine. There is no on/off for it.
You had manual trans selected but I thought you had an auto.Maybe you have a stick??
1.) You have the low octane routine enabled.
Put them back to 00 until you find the actual problem. This may be masking part or all of it.
2.) You have OL idle and CL idle thresholds both set to 00.
If you wish to disable this function just set them low (as they were) so CL idle happens at 500 RPM rising and it will drop into OL if RPM drops below 350 falling.
Those settings effectivly disable the OL idle routine. There is no on/off for it.
You had manual trans selected but I thought you had an auto.Maybe you have a stick??
pwdbychevy
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1.) You have the low octane routine enabled.
Put them back to 00 until you find the actual problem. This may be masking part or all of it.
2.) You have OL idle and CL idle thresholds both set to 00.
If you wish to disable this function just set them low (as they were) so CL idle happens at 500 RPM rising and it will drop into OL if RPM drops below 350 falling.
Those settings effectivly disable the OL idle routine. There is no on/off for it.
You had manual trans selected but I thought you had an auto.Maybe you have a stick??
I have a manual trans. I am running constant open loop, does it matter on the OL CL idle thresholds? I will disable the low octane routine. I am almost positive that the knock is coming from that stupid gear drive.Originally Posted by JP86SS
Suggestions:1.) You have the low octane routine enabled.
Put them back to 00 until you find the actual problem. This may be masking part or all of it.
2.) You have OL idle and CL idle thresholds both set to 00.
If you wish to disable this function just set them low (as they were) so CL idle happens at 500 RPM rising and it will drop into OL if RPM drops below 350 falling.
Those settings effectivly disable the OL idle routine. There is no on/off for it.
You had manual trans selected but I thought you had an auto.Maybe you have a stick??
JP86SS
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The routine runs for idle only, with both at 00 I'm not sure what that will do beside keep conflicting with itself.
I'd say to put them to the 350 and 500 level and use the normal temp enable to keep you in OL all the time.
I'd say to put them to the 350 and 500 level and use the normal temp enable to keep you in OL all the time.
pwdbychevy
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I'd say to put them to the 350 and 500 level and use the normal temp enable to keep you in OL all the time.
What are the names of the tables you're referring to again? I want to make sure I'm changing the right tables.Originally Posted by JP86SS
The routine runs for idle only, with both at 00 I'm not sure what that will do beside keep conflicting with itself.I'd say to put them to the 350 and 500 level and use the normal temp enable to keep you in OL all the time.
JP86SS
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Constants at address 992 & 993 IIRC.
pwdbychevy
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Ok thanks JP for your help.Originally Posted by JP86SS
Constants at address 992 & 993 IIRC. sorry......... my computer cant open .zip files I download from thirdgen???? maybe a known MS vista problem?? (computer is new....)
same here, i cant download zips here either. Not using vista. SOmeone suggested its a Internet Explorer thing
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Yes, IE issue. Try using FireFox for the downloads. I also prefer it for a browser over IE.
RBob.
RBob.
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