hey all,

i have a 66 el camino that i have install a tpi setup in i have some major issues that i can't seem to figure out.. this is my first time tuning a gm so i dont know the ins and outs yet, i tune hondas and acuras, so first thing is first hopefully someone can shed some light on this for me.. first thing the check engine light is staying on with the key switched on never goes out, i can;t get my autoxray to connect to the ecu, says vechile not responding, the changes i make to the ecu with my ostrich doesnt seem to make a difference at all other then vats was able to disable that, car is running rich, sometimes it will run at idle for alittle while and others it wants to die out, if i give it any gas it wants to choke out, if i give it gas slowly then i can get it to rev out, i have the timing set to 0 so tdc, (let me know where they run best and ill adjust that), also i did adjust the timing by pulling the jumper first. hopefully someone here can help me out this is really starting to get to me, it should be a easy swap but its not looking that way for me, my biggest thing to start with is why my autoxray will not communicate with it, i only have three wires going to the aldl is this my problem, terminals A, B, and M thanks to all

 

Not sure about the other stuff, but your base timing should be happier around 8* advanced. Make sure your timing light adjustment is set to 0 of course.

 

Post up the motor specs/combo information and what starting bin are you using?

I cant remember for sure, but key on, the engine light should come on and I dont think its suppose to go away unless you are testing for engine codes with the jumper in the ALDL port. Then it will flash.

You will need 10K ohm resistance I believe to connect to the ECM in ALDL logging mode. Does your scanner have this feature?

I'd have to dig up the wiring diagrams and pinouts for the ALDL port but is there a reason why you only have 3 wires going to the port?

 

With VATS enabled the CEL turns off once the VATS box is happy, but with it "shut off" in the PROM I'm not sure.

 

ok while waiting on responses i did up the timing to 10 advance i will back that back to 8 thank you.

 

10* could easily be just fine; every combo is a bit different.

 

the engine is a zz4 roller gm crate engine, 700r4 tranny, (out of a vette) if it matters, timing is now adjusted to 8 degrees, the aldl port only has three wires as it is how i got it from a place on ebay, dubbed like painless wiring i assume and hope, i will add wires if that is what i need to do will just need to know which ones to run, the autoxray ez-scan 5000 will data log or show alot of readings if i can get it to read the computer.

 

ok ill see what is better, 8 or 10

 

First thing we need to know is which ECM are you using.

Then you need to check the SES/CEL light, not the VATs (security light). At key-on, engine-off, the SES/CEL should turn on briefly, blink off, then turn on solid. Can repeat the test after at least 10 seconds of key-off.

If the SES/CEL doesn't blink off then the ECM is in limp mode. It is not running from the PROM (or Ostrich). The ALDL won't work while in limp mode either.

Base timing: set it to 6* BTDC. This is also set as the initial timing is the calibration, they need to match. Then make all further spark changes via the spark tables in the calibration.

RBob.

 

It sounds like you may be in Limp Home Mode (LHM).

When you changed the VATS bit to disable it, did you save the bin and then upload, or just changed that one bit while emulating?
The reason I ask is because I suspect that if you check the codes (Paper clip code check), you will likely get a code 51, which is MEMCAL/PROM error.
While the ECM is in LHM the datalogging will cease.
What you need to do to emulate is disable checksum by changing the code mask to "AA".
What program are you using to tune with? I suggest downloading Tuner Pro RT, because it was first designed around tuning GMs, but has been adapted to other manufacturers. There is also a lot of support for that program here.

 

ok so i found that i had a bad ground or lose ground got that fixed and the cel is no off quick blink when i turn the key on and then its off and remains off the engine is running decent. still cannot get my autoxray to read from the aldl says vehicle not responding also i can still smell alot of gas so i am assuming its running rich but i still have not adjusted the tps

 

Check your spark plugs after idleing for a bit. See what they look like. You can be lean and still smell like gas.

 

Ok. So I think I am in limp mode not to dis agree in my early post but I had the cel go off. But now it is back on and it us solid will not flash or blink. I jumped the a and b terminals and get nothing. I am using the 165 ECM. I don't know what else to do. As far as getting it out of limp mode. The complete out fit is a painless wiring look a like kit from eBay. A 165 ecu from a 88 camaro 350 tpi. I have deleted the 9 th injector. Using runners that did not have the 9 th injector. I have unplugged the 9th injector timer. I have relocated my fuel inlet to the hole where the 9th injector was so that I could have the fuel lines in the back. Also I don't have the two wire oil switch so the plug is empty and not plugged into anything. I had a jumper wire on it at first but I relized that, that made the fuel pump run all the time on the key forward position. Is this or could this be a problem. Thanks to all

 

The limp mode is within the ECM/MEMCAL/Ostrich. Basically the ECM isn't running from the PROM/Ostrich. If you have the stock MEMCAL try the blink test with it. This is just to get it going to prove out that the ECM is OK.

The '7165s are notorious for going bad.

With the Ostrich need to make sure that the BIN is being loaded correctly. I don't have a lot of experience with them so am only of minor help. The '7165 BIN is 16 K and needs to be loaded into the top of the Ostrich memory space.

ALDL connector. With the '165 need to have pins E & M wired together. Pin E is used during 160 baud comm then switches to pin M for 8192 baud comm. Not all scan tools will do the 8192 baud comm on a '7165 ECM.

RBob.

 

ok good morning to all so upon coming in this morning i have loaded the ecm with the factory memcal and prom the car will not run and i still have a cel light staying on but my autoxray will scan now. so whats next. i use my ostrich to tune imports so is it possible that the ecm is trying to read a import bin and not the gm bin.. how do i reset my ostrich or move the gm bin to the top of the memory? also does the scanner reading the ecm mean the ecm is good or because the cel light is still burning all the time mean it is bad? thanks again all you have been a great help thus far

ok edit the cel is blinking when i first turn the key on but of course no run because of vats im going to try to burn a factory chip with no vats and see what that does also i seen a post on the fan n/o what does that do and do i need to do that so the ecm will control the fan and also for the a/c i am using the same fan a 1400 cfm figured it can do both is this correct.... sorry i just keep updating as i do some trouble shooting i have also found now that my autoxray is working my intake air temp sensor is bad im assuming as i am getting -40.00 on the scanner. am i missing something or does this mean its bad??

 

OK, so the ECM and the stock MEMCAL are OK. Just need to work on getting the Ostrich set up correctly. Check that the switches or jumpers are correct for a 28-pin PROM.

The MAT at -40 means that either the sensor or wiring is open. It may be that it isn't plugged in.

RBob.

 

What base bin are you trying to start with? Try to program a factory ARAP bin with NO vats and see what happens. If the wiring is correct, and the engine isnt that highly moddifed, theres no reason it shouldnt start. From what you posted it sounds like wiring issues and ostrich setup problems.

I have had near stock bins with only changes to commanded idle speed and injector size start big heads/cam L98's and highly moddifed 383's. You really dont need to do much to get a car to start with a stock bin...its the WOT thats always off with MAF. Most of the time, part throttle and idle are "close". Now closed loop idle may have issues with big cams and open loop may be better option, but i've had both work, although idle doesnt command BLM of 128, it runs stable and on the lean side which is ok for idle.

 

the sensor is pluged in i tried two old sensors i had laying around with no luck so i am going to ohm out the wirings make sure they are making it to the ecm. before i go with a new one.. also i have found that my homemade chip isn't work that is my problem. i guess when i reinstalled the chip in the factory memcal socket i, didnt get the connections good or crossed them up one of the two, we have a moates g5 on the way so i have to set aside the tuning at the moment until it comes in unless i am missing something or anyone knows some tricks..lol thanks to all

 

It may be the ADX import was not correct.

I had that problem with my MAT sensor, using $59. I would import the ADS to V5, save it as an ADX, and for some reason the MAT settings wouldn't import properly. The import issue has been fixed, but you may have an ADX that was imported back when it was a problem.

 

Also does anyone know if and how to change the speedo from 2 pulse to 8 pulse. I am using a vdo gauge. I know I need the vss. Signal for shifting reasons or so I do with imports. So I am assuming. Is this correct and is it possible thanks

 

The VSS doesn't effect shifting on the mechanical trannies, though it does effect TCC, and helps with overall drive ability.

 

Ok today. I burnt a factory bin to a chip. After getting the moated chip it works fine. I am going to put a wideband on it so that I can street tune it. Also one thing I am having a problem with is the fan cutting on and off with the ecu. I have it wired from the ecu to a relay. But no matter what temp I have the fan come on at it will not give power to the fan wire. So other then the tcc lockup The vss has nothing to do with the ecu tune??? Thanks again all

 

ok got a major problem, the car was running fine for a little while until i ran out of fuel, now i added fuel and then nothing, i have fuel pressure when i turn the key forward and then when the fuel pump cuts off the injectors open and all the pressure is gone and it is dumping the fuel into the cylinders, it has done this enough to have fuel in the oil...... what would cause this problem, is it bad injectors, is it the arap bin i am using, im lost and need some major help....

 

ok so, might have a big issue...lol pulled the spark plugs and discovered that some cylinders had large amounts of fuel.... i am assuming that this is the mat sensor reading -40.00 so it is dumping alot of fuel because it thinks is cold the gas problem started when i was turning the key on and off to check autoxray readings while car was off, when the fuel pump is running i have 40-45 psi, when the pump turns off the computer is opening every injector and dumping all the fuel in the cylinders, i have run down all the wires to the mat sensor and they are correct, the adx import that six_shooter was talking about how do i do this??? im new to the gm tuning and not 100% on the importing of a adx, thanks

 

The import issue only affected the display in Tuner Pro RT, the ECM still used and recognized proper readings from the MAT sensor.

If you can find a newer version of the ADX, that should be fixed.

Otherwise you will either have to manually correct the ADX, or import an ADS, then save as an ADX. You will find this option under the Acquisition tab.

 

so any idea why my ecm is reading -40 on the mat sensor

 

If you have an effected ADX, that would be why Tuner Pro is displaying that.

Have you tried connecting V4 with a known working ADS? That is how I was lead down the trail to find the import issue a while ago.

 

ok, i found out what it was or so i think it has been a uphill battle with this tune... i have to say i am a noob when it comes to gm so i am lost when you say v4 however i am not using tuner rt pro to datalog... i was using my autoxray, and i had the autoxray set to 1986 gm vin 8 body f, but was using a 1989 bin so when i changed my autoxray to 1989 vin 8 body f everything pulled up right, so far so good for today, i will check for a clean cold start up in the morning and hope for the best, right now it is running on my ostrich, so i am hoping to burn the exact program on my ostrich to a chip and be done with it. thanks, all the comment and advise has helped though this, my timing for this engine likes to be a 9.2 advanced with the dizzy jumper unpluged. with it pluged back in the car is advancing on its own like it should, however advancing 37 is alittle high i think but at idle it is doing fine so i am ok with that.