Thought I'd make a thread in which I can post all of my EBL related questions and log my progress.
So far I have three learns done and I'm currently reading and learning to find out what to do and how I should take advantage of this

My engine is an almost completely stock (with the exception of the open element air cleaner) L03.

Up for review:




Thanks for looking!

 

What are your VE Learns looking like?

 

Here's latest VE learn (same as seen on VE low and high speed charts)

 

now show the %%

 

You mean the corrections? Here are those: (from first learn to second learn)

 

It is adding a lot of fuel. eventually it will start to level out with some minus appearing. Change in temperature day to day will cause corrections as well.

 

That doesn't sound very good- especially since I clocked 16.5 mpg before that learn.
I entered 11psi for my fuel pressure because I'm not sure exactly what it is- could this be affecting it in a big way?
I was also running a code 23 (IAT low) because I disconnected the sensor and didn't get rid of the flag until now

 

I woud add a FP gauge. summit brand that is not liquid filled.

No IAT? then change the IAT coolant blend to 100%

 

Well not completely taken out, but moved to a cooler location than my air cleaner, but I'll do that.

 

And you mean 100% all the way down the chart?

 

IAT/CTS Blend filter is what your looking at right?

Think thats what he means.

Also,get a FP gauge, youll need to know what your FP is to really tune for fuel.

By the looks of that you might have a fueling issue. Take a look at my thread and youll see what i mean. My VE table was funky like that, had my injectors cleaned, did a few more learns and correct AE and it smoothed out great

 

Yes all the way. all cells in table. If the IAT is not functional then we need to bias 100% to coolant. I would get the IAT repaired. It is helpfull when air temps vary day to day. In meantime you can uncheck the IAT flag so no CE light appears. Check EBL malf for any flags. I keep malf up on laptop while tuning.

 

Actually, I can still plug the IAT into the air cleaner but I'm going to replace the stock air cleaner base pretty soon (I cut the sides off of my stock air cleaner but to remove the spacer ring I have to cut up the junkyard air cleaner top I bought). Yes, I do regret cutting up the OEM air cleaner now... should have just bought a whole unit at the junkyard and hacked that one.

But anyway, I'll plug the IAT sensor back in (I was following the Ultimate TBI guide) and I'll see if my friend can weld the sensor plug into the new base.
Now to change back all the CTS% values.

 

I would get the IAT repaired. It is helpfull when air temps vary day to day.

Especially since we have been in the mid 50's this week, tonite will drop to low 30's

 

Definitely. Baltimore weather is pretty fickle year-round. Btw, where in Baltimore are you located?

 

Car's running much smoother now- no more "pulsing" at idle and it just runs better all around. The last VE learn with the IAT attached really did the trick. I'll try to send my Injectors out to fuelinjectorconnection.com next week for a clean and rebuild. I'm pretty sure that no one can beat $25 for cleaning/flow matching a pair of TBI injectors.

Now I've heard some talk about getting rid of the EGR function- what does EGR do, should I do this, and how is it done?

 

ttt- EGR

 

http://autorepair.about.com/od/gloss..._egr-valve.htm

We removed the hardware(added headers so ext no longer supported) and turned off egr in the .bin(set enable temp to max)

 

Exhaust Gas Recirculation.. well that sounds performance oriented (10). Just modded the .bin to get rid of it. Thanks

 

Another question: what do you guys mean when you talk about "smoothing VE tables"?

 

say you have a specific cell that is much larger or much smaller than the surrounding cells. It will modify that one as well as the surrounding to make it a smooth transition. See the graph function. Avoid peaks and valleys . Think of it as body putty?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...help-asap.html

Here's a link to the thread I created previously about the situation I had with, what I found out to be, my 30 degree advanced timing.
Now it's been running a lot better, but I plugged in to get some datalogs and logged a SA that looks like this over a 4.2 mile trip (city)

Also, my gas mileage seems to have gone down a bit since I fabricated my CAI. It draws air from a filter located where the cruise control module used to be. Then again, I don't have the IAT hooked up properly yet- going into the TBI hat. I know the TBI likes the intake air to be little hot, but I don't see why CAI would cause roughly a 2mpg drop.. especially in the summer when the air is already hot.

 

Sorry to bump again, but are there any suggestions on what to do about the large amount of spark knock I'm getting? This car is my daily driver so I can't afford to mess it up.

 

Pull some spark pugs out and check them for signs of detonation. See this link:

www.dynamicefi.com/SparkPlug.php

That will show you what to look for. If it is false knock it is killing your performance and mileage.

RBob.

 

did you pull a significant of SA incrementally? You should see improvement as you pull SA.

I would pull 15% at a time until you see an improvement. If no improvement then odds are its mechanical.

I did just that and saw no improvement. My KC are at 2400 rpms 35 to 45 MAP and no wheres else. They appear out of nowhere one in 5 logs. During moderate accelleration like an xway ramp. My plugs looked normal cept cyl #2 had oil fouling last year. I am at 2 deg max retard during event. If fact I may just zero out the retard table. Not sure if it will still show in datalogs then?

 

@RBob. Pulled 4 spark plugs and none of them have peppering like the pictures you have. There's some discoloration, but I'll assume that's from normal engine wear after nearly 1000 miles, with a handfull of those miles being with bad timing and rich conditions. I'm going to try filling up with 93 octane to see what happens. I'll also look for sources of false knock-could be my exhaust for all I know- I haven't been tightening that like I should.

@Ronny- What exactly do you mean by pulling SA? Obviously, I haven't done this so please tell what you can


Edit: Took a second look, and I can see some peppering (yes, purple too) on the spark plug from cylinder number 2. This is most likely due to a hot spot I created when I scraped the heavy carbon deposits off the top of the cylinder with a screwdriver.. idiotic, I know now. However, this peppering is very light and barely noticeable. How should I go about dealing with this?

 

After work I took the valve covers off and checked the preload on the lifters. I tightened two up, but for all I know I could have 14 more loose lifters causing false knock. Since I have nothing better to do tonight, I'll try to re-check the load on all the lifters after I change the oil. 3/4 tank of 93 octane doesn't seem to have helped much either.

Oddly enough, looking through my old datalogs, even when the engine was stock (and in pretty bad running condition), it was recording a lot of knock.

 

Should I be using the L98 SA tables instead of the Vortec tables? The combustion chamber of the 059 Vortecs is D shaped, rather than heart-shaped