Now in missouri it's getting about 20f now .Now its cold ,my car is feeling like the choke is malfunctioning.Starts ok but is rough until warmup.What table in tunercat will help?

 

There is a table in the $6E called "Injector PW Cold Cranking vs Coolant Temp" (or something like that) in the new $6E TDF. Someone did a post on this subject during the summer and that was the table that was needed, and TunerCat has in the new TDF has it.

Do a search on "cold crank" on this board and you'll find the post relating to this with the ARAP BIN. It's one of those tables where it is a "multiplier" and generally adding a little more to the "multiplier" at various Temps will richen the mixture and make cold starting easier.

 

So I'm not the only one! It's getting down to 8deg. F at night here now; it'll start up fine, but then tries to die. If I put it in gear it does die.
I've been working on a couple of tables that are helping-open loop a/f ratio vs. coolant temp, and cool compensation spark vs. load. I've added more spark in the low temp ranges-thats helped.
I've also tried varying the a/f ratio vs. cool. temp with some improvement there.
Now a question-to help with tuning a/f ratio at open loop low temps after first starting it up-how long does power have to be applied to warm up a wideband o2 sensor to the point that it's giving you good info???? This is when it's realll cold out-my dog doesn't even want to stay out too long!

 

I'm running the arap code in my car WITH the cold start injector. And it starts on the first revolution of the engine. I don't think I've ever had a car start so well. The guy that parks next to me at work drives a 2002 mustang gt convert. His don't crank near as fast. I tease him all the time, it won't start or run with the old bird!!

 

Hey what color is your car? I've probably seen you around, just didn't know it was you. Do you cruise Hwy 94 in St.Charles ever?

 

I dont go to st charles too often.But this spring I would like to meet with everyone from the net in my area at gateway international.We can all drool over each others rides and get some legit timeslips.I like your van,it looks like bada$$.Would you like to come?

 

Hell yeah. I'll be there.

 

Hey I'd like to join ya I'm quite a ways further SW than you guys but I don't mind the drive. Won't be the bird though

 

Hey Clutch, where is Marionville? Close to Springfield or no?

Back to the original topic. I had an MSD 6AL, but it broke. I noticed that after I unhooked it, it was real sluggish in the morning. I'm gonna play with the SA cold bias table and see if I can't restore a little bit of the "pep" it had before when stone cold.

 

Yes actually it's very close to Springfield, just about 25 miles west on Hwy 60. Is Oakwood pretty close to Springfield? In fact, since Marionville is such a dead town I spend most of my time in Springfield

 

Just an update-I've added more timing advance to the cool comp. vs load and that seems to have done the trick for the cold open loop idle stall outs. From 32 to 112 load at -16c and -4c I'm up to 18deg; at 8deg c up to 15.2, and 20 and 32 deg. c I'm up to 12 deg , and 44 deg c it's 10 deg advance. This is working great for me now-it doesn't stall out-still doesn't idle quite as high as the "target rpm" when cold but otherwise doing good. I'll try fine tuning some more. I know that sounds like a lot of timing, but keep in mind I'm at 7000ft.-it likes more timing up here- for a compromise with lower altitude I'll probably back it off and then enable stall saver.

 

cp87GTA, you may be running too rich at startup, with that cold-start circuit still hooked up. Remember, the 89 ARAP code adds fuel to the 8 injectors to help cold startup. There are now 4 "crank" tables in TC's latest $6E TDF. These tables can be "fine tuned" to your help your own engine start better.

The cold start circuit runs for 8sec max (i think), depending on coolant temp. How does your car start when it is warm? I just pulled the fuse for that circuit, but plan on removing the 9th injector when I start tearing into the intake this winter. I think it helps on the electrical system at startup, by NOT having that circuit energized. By adding fuel to the 8 injectors, you get a more even distribution of fuel, compared to shooting fuel from that "9th" injector.

I think that anytime you can "fix" a problem within the PROM code, you are better off doing that than with "hardware" fixes.

Just my 2cents!!!

 

Yea, I changed the crank tables. I then pulled the fuse for the cold sart injector. Morning 1 it started ok, I just thought i'd see if it made any differance by plugging it back in. Morning 2 it started better, and I've just left it that way. Warm starts are ok too. I haven't been tunning too much lately. Son-in-laws building a house. Maybe get back to it in a couple of months. I think I may try something other than arap code though. My car seems to run much better on the lean side according to the ecm, but the plugs don't reflect it. I only have about 1000 miles since the rebuild.

 

i have a problem.....on a cold start up when i go to start it up and i try and rev it up it pops like back fires threw the intake/throttle body, and it acts like a carberatored engine...mine is a tune port by the way, but ya when i try reving it up it acts like its chocking...idk what else to say but ya can u help me?

 

i didnt know maybe if the cold start up valve had anything to do with this?