I'm trying to figure out what the 4th digit in the VIN number indicates on the L98 cars. The reason I need this is because the Auto Xray I have asks for the 4th digit in the VIN when I go to scan the car. I can't use my VIN because I have an '86 LB9 car. The engine and PROM are '87 L98 though so I need to setup the Auto Xray to scan an '87 L98. If it helps any the option are C E F K and Y.

My assumption is that it's F for F-body, am I correct??

 

Nevermind, for some reason the Auto Xray won't let me scan it as an '87 even though the PROM is an '87. It will scan fine as an '86 though ... go figure.

 

Right.. The 4th digit indicates the platform of the vehicle. For example, an LO3 could be had in Monte Carlos, Camaros, El Caminos, Silverados, etc. so the way for the AXRY to differentiate between those is to ask for the 4th digit or "Truck Yes/No". use "F" for f-body.

 

For what it's worth, use "Y" for Corvette (in case you have a Vette BIN).

 

It's not a vette bin I'm sure. Ed Wright doesn't use anything other than one of the bins for the specific year of Fbody that the chip is burned for.

 

Possibly...But you didn't say anything about an Ed Wright chip...

 

Very true I didn't, my bad.

Guess people don't read signatures anymore

 

...Sure they do...

But your post says "I can't use my VIN because I have an '86 LB9 car. The engine and PROM are '87 L98 though"...

...That could mean anyone's car...

And for what it's worth, the most used BIN for modded F-bodies, the ARAP BIN, is from a 1989 aluminum-head L98 auto trans Corvette...

(see http://holman.cs.uml.edu/~sdurphey/bccfind/)

...But I digress...

 

Sorry if I seemed like an @$$. I guess people aren't always referring to their cars when they post on here so I apologize.

BTW, that website has some good info but Shannen Durphey is an @$$hole.

 

Not necessary! When posting here, everyone's mind is 10 miles down the thruway...

Ah, well...If it weren't for @$$holes, I'd get pretty lonely...

I'd be interested in hearing what changes Ed Wright made to the chip/BIN...As compared to the GM BIN...

 

I'm not too sure of the details of what he changed but I know the spark curve is changed to a more aggressive one that requires a 60 degree thermostat, he readjusts the shift points to more "optimal" positions, he adjusts the tuning as low as 400rpms and does part throttle tuning which most companies don't touch anything below 1400-1600 rpms and don't do part throttle programming either, and he eliminates the top speed fuel cutoff like most aftermarket chips have done.

In 1998 Ed Wright won a "chip programmers shoot out" beating out Hypertech, Motorsports Technologies, and Superchips Inc. You can see a paragraph on the specs of the car used, etc on his website. http://www.fastchip.com

I've just heard good things about Ed's work and alot of people are going with his chips. Just seems like my best choice since I don't have the time and money for learning to burn my own chips.

 

I disabled sigs when I'm on dialup because of dumbbutts with sigs longer than the browser window. So I rarely see them.

 

I don't mean to be harsh/critical, but is that your direct observation from comparing the Ed Wright BIN with your OEM BIN??? I know what he advertises; I'd like to know how much is bull$h1t...

I don't either...That's why I don't waste my money on Hypertech, Jet, Ed Wright, etc chips. If I can't drive my car to their dyno and watch/tell them what to do, then I'll do it myself...No matter how long it takes to get it right; I'm not going anywhere...Except six feet under...

And even if I get it dialed in (or in your case, buy the perfect chip), I'll change something and need to dial it in all over again...

It's the old story: If you want it done *right*, you have to do it yourself...

But I'd like to hear from you if you think Ed Wright chips are an acceptable compromise...And exactly what it is he changes...(not his ads)...

...Just my $02...take it for what it's worth...

 

Easy there!. I don't like that comment. Shannen has always been very helpful. Best bet is to keep your opinion of another individual to yourself.

Tim

 

You could very well be right about his advertisements. However, I was stuck in a dilemma. Run my stock 305 chip like I was for the past 3 1/2 months and change my plugs every time I change my oil becaus I was fouling them out from running to rich (even at 36psi fuel pressure) ... or buy an Ed Wright chip for a 350 that's a little "closer" to being right for my application so that I'm not running "as rich" and not having to change my plugs so often. I know the chip I have is not by any means "optimal" for my application but I feel it's better than running my stock 305 chip with a 355 using 24# injectors.

Even if I could take my car to their dyno I wouldn't have a clue as to what to tell him to change and if I started burning my own chips I'd probably just mess with something in the wrong way and destroy my engine being my luck. I've searched archives and read articles and these "parameters" in the chip just aren't making sense to me. I learn better through one on one, hands on experience than through reading and I'm not sure just yet if toying with an engine that I put so much money into is worth it or not. Maybe someday.

 

Sorry, I just tend to have a problem with people that act like they're better than you just because you don't know quite as much. But I'll keep my opinions to myself from now on to please everyone who might be offended.