OK, I KNOW THIS MAY BE MOVED...BUT>.........> I have got no help on the tech boards so I thought I would ask you guys what is going on? And can I do anything through the chip to fix this?

I have recently rebuilt my Z with AFR heads, compu can 2032, headers and flowmaster exhuast. I had put the new engine in and it seemed like it was plugged up for a week, then it opend up? After about 100 miles, i was going around an off ramp on the freeway and all of the sudden, it felt like a wire contacted and boom power...or it unplugged?
ONCE it was opened up, it was way faster that the stock engine WITH the supercharger I put my supercharger back on and blew an intake gasket, and the fuel pressure regulator went bad and dumped a but load of fuel into my oil. So now i have torn down the engine, replaced all gaskets, torqued everything right and it is running like it is plugged up again? Or a wire is not grounded? Really strange . I have new cat's, no codes, it sounds like it runs fine, however, it's lacking power? My Tps is showing normal voltage as is my O2 sensor..no codes?
I went to the track and put the supercharger on for a run and I ran the same as last year with the stock engine? I have no IDEA of what the heck is going on with the car? Can anyone HELP?????

Can i do anything via tunning the chip to fix this? My BLM"s are between 126-132 at part throttle?

 

Your not even close on the tune.
You'll be lucky if you don't kick the rod bearings or a rod thru the side of the block, assuming a piston doesn't fail first.

I S/C needs a whole lot less timing, and a whole lot more fuel then a N/A engine.

You need a new hobby like learning how to burn chips.

 

grumpy,

I thought you wanted the blm's to be 128 at part throttle, Right?

By the look of my plugs, they are showing black! Black = rich right! and my exhuast is showing black on the tail pipes.

I have no idea what is going on? ONce i put the rebuild in, the car ran good with ok hp..but it felt like it was plugged? then, i went onto an on ramp, the car felt like it unplugged..then i had tons' of HP. I have no idea what happend, but it ran great after that!

After I replaced the gaskets a second time ( intake gasket blew and the fuel psi reg. went south) the car now is running like it is plugged? It's runnig rich per the plugs and exhaust and scan software.

I have no knock and understand that supercharges need more fuel, that's why i have an adjustible FMU! right now it's at a 4/1 ratio and running rich. I have take off the s/c for now until i can figure out what's the problem.

And as far as getting a hobby of burning the chips...
I FRIGGIN GO THE STUFF>>>>

 

At least on TPI, there will definitely be a "learning curve" for the ECM when it's first fired up and it'll run a lot better than a brand new start. I didn't notice mine "on an onramp" but I sure did after a few start ups. This is probably all you're noticing.

What Bruce is saying is that your PROM is way wrong, or else there wouldn't be a massive improvement after driving 100 miles. I cannot explain the BLM's being near 128, but until you figure that out, start tuning via O2s...

What is "I FRIGGIN GO THE STUFF>>>>" ?????

 

Maybe i have not described what is going on clearly? I do not know how to describe what is going on with my car?

After i put a new engine in the car, it ran fine, however, it seemed to be lacking power. At this time i had done nothing to the chip. I went from a stock engine (5.7) to a rebuilt engine. Forged pistons, crank, rods, balanced, cam @.50 208/222 on 112 lca, AFR heads, ported intake with slp runners, ford svo 24lb injectors, crane hi6-s ignition, tes headers and 3inch cat back exhaust. Timming is at 6deg advanced, fuel psi is at 43.5psi.

It was running like it was plugged up for the first 100 miles. then, it acted as if it...unplugged. bam tons of hp! like it woke up from a dead sleep? I have new cats so i know they are not plugged. after i put 1000 mi on the new engine, i put the sc on...later my fuel reg went badand i blew an intake gasket. i tore the engine down, replaced all gaskets to the head gaskets. I beleive that you should always do the job right...or you will be doing it all over again! Anyway, since i put it back together, it is runnig like it is plugged up again? No codes, everything checks out on my xp240 and the CM software. O2 sensor values are good Mv but the only two things i can find is that the plugs are showing sighns of excessive fuel ( i have set the VE tables and it runs cleaner) and that advancing the timming to 20deg makes no detonation??? I am wondering if the ignition module is bad? It runs fine but lacks power? SUpercharger is off now, I have no knock counts when i run it at 12 deg advanced.

as for my final coment...grumpy pissed me off! I gladly welcome postive and constructive critism but worthless insults do no one anygood. I mean, I could flame Grumpy back on his comment, however, that would do no one any good! And it would make me a hipporcrite.

 

I had my go-arounds with Grumpy about suspension parts years back. And I know that being right and being grumpy about it doesn't endear others to ya, even if the Global West parts are the better option LOL.

Even if he's being jerky about this, he is telling you you need to do some PROM burning, and seeing how you're running good heads and non stock cam now, you definitely would benefit from some PROM burning... Weed through the anger of the jaded, and you shall find some wisdom.

The way I'm reading it (and I'm waaaaaay green to prom burning) your car took a while to bring BLM's into spec, or run right at all, and you saw a noticable increase in power. If I unhook my battery and drive it a few stop & go trips, I see the same thing (see sig for mods; I'm running an 86 auto. prom) But, your S/C install is gonna *require* major tuning, not just a "run it until it develops the power" like it did when it was NA.

And I'm sure if that last paragraph is off, someone can correct me.

 

I agree that i need to do some tuning via the prom, however, i do not think this is a prom issue since it resolved itself last time? I have the BLM/INT values close to 128 across the board with PE disabled. My BLMs are around 126-132. I would Be GREATFUL if those of expertise would point me in the right direction:hail: TOday, I'm going to check my spark..wondering if my CRane Hi6 is working? From there...any help would be, well lets just say:hail:

 

Too bad, you interupted things that way. And it was your problem. There was nothing insulting about what I said.

All the people all the time, yada yada, truer now then ever.

And chip'ing is an excellent hobby.

 

Grumpy,

It is hard to hear the tone as to how you quoted

" You need a new hobby like learning how to burn chips"

To me, it sounds a bit sarcastic, but then, you could have been sincere? Hard to tell, If i did take it the wrong way, I appoligize.
Guess i was a little pissed because It did come off sarcastic to me and the fact that my family and I put you up in prayer durring you health crisis, well, I kind of felt like I was slappedin the face. Far as I"m concerned, a miss understanding.

I was looking for some help. and hoping to bring it to this fourm to find out what to do next? So where should I go from here?? I have the VE tables right! What is my next step?m Two things i found: one was that my car is not having any knocks at 12or 15 deg advanced. It seems like i can run a ton of inital timming and it will not knock? I'm gonna mess with that today...and yes, all plug wires are on right and it was set right TDC. Also, the plugs are dirty? I ran a few runs and shut it off and checked the plugs and they were showing excessive fuel. not as much as before the VE tables were modified but still is running rich?

Any takers?

 

Craig, while I know you have gotten actively involved into eprom burning; Bruce does not (or did not).

I can sympathize with Bruce in that there are a LOT of guys (and many recently) so it is tough to keep up with all the new people. Some Bruce has been helping (privately) and more aware of their setup (and problems). While others (like yourself) I have been helping a little on the side, so I am more aware of your setup and problems.

And even then, I often forget EXACTLY the setup everyone I talk to privately. MAF? SD? Formely MAF and now SD? 350? 383? 415? 434? Supercharger?

I probably chat with 100 guys and I know Bruce is at least 10x that. So it is IMPOSSIBLE to keep everything and everybody straight.

So don't take it as an insult from Bruce for suggesting to get into "eprom burning". I often don't know EXACTLY the setup each person has also.

As for a TON of initial timing, be careful. Too much initial timing can result in "backfiring" during startup and cause problems. Timing is power (to a point), but too much is also hard and even dangerous to the engine. The name of the game is to develop as much power as possible with the LEAST amount of timing as possible. Makes for a much happier and long living engine.

Also, if you are looking for "fun things to try". Try getting your engine to perform optimally in ALL elevations and a wide range of ambient air temps. It is always humbling to me when I get my engine just running "perfect" at Kamloops (1,200 feet) and then I take a trip to the Coast (sea level) and detect "ping" at WOT.

 

Honestly, I wouldn't be driving it without doing any chip tuning. That cam isn't insane, but it's definatly going to need to be tuned. And I'm sure you know that putting a S/C on top of isn't going to make things better!

When I first got into PROM tuning I found that even the stock chip with minimal mods had PLENTY of tuning to be done.

I would trust the plugs. If they are black, then you KNOW at some point it was running too rich.

 

Im not sure if you guys are clear of the symptons of my car? It seems like it is plugged up? Last time this happended, it all of the sudden woke up? As if a wire was not contacting or the exhaust unplugged? Now, If i run a lot of initial timming, it does not detonate? I have put it to 20 deg initial timming and slowly acellerate..no ping?

What could cause this? I have checked to see if my timming marks on my timming chain are correct and they are correct.

Firing order is correct.

I am wondering what would cause this..lack of power, and the timming issue? Maybe a bad ingition module? I don't know? Maybe I should take it on a road trip and hope the ecm will recallibrate?

I realize that modifying the chip will make a huge difference, but i am just wondering why ever since i tore the engine down it is acting sluggish?

thanks for all of your help..........and grumpy.....I hope i have not offended you.

C-

 

Craiger,

I'm not sure if I missed this or not, but what kind of ECM do you have? What is the vacuum at idle? Does timing advance OK (revving in neutral)? Your part-throttle BLM's seem OK, but were they measured before you disconnected the battery for your rebuild? Did you degree the cam when you installed it? Are you sure you're going into closed-loop mode? etc. etc. Is the FPR that you're running the one that came with your S/C? Sounds like something basic isn't quite right.

good luck,
Frank

 

frank,

idle vacume is a steady 16, cam was deg TDC, fuel psi is 43, and the timming advance is working.

 

I noticed 1 thing that popped out at me. You said that the fuel pressure regulator went bad... what did that do to your fuel pressure? If the pressure dropped it would have leaned out and given you more power, assuming you were running WAY too rich to begin with!!! From what I understand (please correct me if I am wrong) the computer can kind of tune itself under idle and part throttle only. Not WOT. So this may explain why the BLM's are fine, but when you really get on it things get rich. I believe the SVO injectors are rated at something around 36 PSI, jsut something to consider. Also I would double check the O2 sensor, if things are getting that black something is screwy.
Hope this helps.

 

thanks for the effort slowta! However, My o2 MV's are fine at WOT. The ford svo 24's run around 26ish. I have changed the constant and tunned the BLM's so it is running OK, just a bit rich. I appriciate the effort! Maybe a sledge hammer and a 6 pack will do the trick

 

I was kind of wondering about the fuel pressure regulator myself, as I thought that some s/c kits used increasing fuel pressure as a means of getting around the stock MAF/MAP sensor limitations.

 

Well if it is still running a bit rich I would take out 1 psi of fuel pressure and make a few runs. Even if the computer thinks it is fine you may have to work around it a bit. The supercharger fuel pressure adjuster thing is only supposed to increase the pressure when the motor is under boost conditions. So it should be fine without the supercharger. Is it possible there is something wrong with the fuel pressure regulator? I know that has hapened before.

 

Craig, your ISP just decided to "block" my ISP as a Spammer. You better get your ISP to change that block or you won't be receiving any more e-mails from me.

Glenn

 

Sorry Craig. I tried to forward it to your ISP at the e-mail address given but YOUR ISP STILL BOUNCES IT as a SPAM. Tell them to give an e-mail address that DOES NOT use their ISP domain. It's your ISP that's the problem. If you have a "Hot Mail" account, then I can FW it there and then you can FW it to them.

But there is NO WAY I can send anything that is part of your ISP Domain.

 

glenn,

try the same email address with the domain = netzero.net

 

I checked with my webmaster and he said that the person sending you the msg has a invalid dns lookup. That is why our spam filter is bouncing the mail back since the senders isp does not have their reverse dns setup correctly which is a internet standard. I would have your friend see if you could have his isp set up reverse dns lookup for him which should be standard which should fix the problem

 

Yeah, well tell your ISP "hooie". Everything is the same as before, it all started last night. I've been down this road before. I've forwarded this to my ISP, but the bottom line is your ISP is "bouncing" the e-mails. It even identifies it as "no spam".

Bottom line, your ISP doesn't want to receive e-mails from Shaw.ca. Guess we can't e-mail anymore unless your ISP stops their "blocking" of shaw.ca.

But tell your ISP to "get real". While Shaw does have "spammers" on it (just like all large ISPs) and is trying to identify and get rid of them. Your ISP has chosen to stop receiving e-mail from the largest ISP for Cable Modems in Western Canada. The only other high-speed internet service avaiable in BC is Telus and they have spammers too.

 

Glenn,

Guess I'm gonna have to pull my Jujutsu skill out and open a can of WHOOPAS$ on my ISP:rockon: I work over the next few days and I will contact them on Monday! Sorry about the troubble!

 

I've always found "I guess I will have to consider alternative ISPs" works really well.

The solution is for your ISP to identify the "spammers" and report them to Shaw.ca for disipline/removal, not bounce all e-mails from shaw.

The "spam" is the ISP's problem, not "your's or mine" and we shouldn't be victimized by some "pimply faced computer geek" that is too lazy to stop the specific e-mails or "pre-scan" the emails for what appears to be advertisement (**** most likely).

Trust me, I have bitched to Shaw on this matter myself and they want to know who these people are too. It's just that when you are the largest/only Cable Modem company in Western Canada, guess who the spammers want to use?

Canada has the technology of the US, just not as many alternatives (because we are only 1/10th the size of the US in population).