ballen

The problem is with an 89 RS, 305 TBI. OK, I'll try to start my car like normal, but sometimes when I turn the ignition switch all the way nothing happens. I can still turn it half-way and get power to the guages and radio, so I thought the ignition switch itself probably isn't the problem. I decided to run a wire with a switch from the starter to the battery. That didn't work, the engine turns but wont start. I figured its not getting fuel or a spark. The confusing part is that this happens every three or four times i start the car. If it doesn't start, i have to wait about ten minutes and then it'll start right up; this is consistent. It is hard to diagnose because most of the time the car starts just fine. The check engine light has never come on. The car is completely stock except for flowmaster exhaust. Does anyone know what's wrong?
This is very frustrating and any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

RSpeed

does it only do it when it's hot?If so, you might want to try the starter solenoid.If it's old and gets too hot,(since it is close to the exhaust manifold),then it may be causing you the problem. Just a thought.

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'91 RS 5.0 TBI
New paint-solid black
ROH Snyper wheels-17x9 wrapped in 275/40/17
Eibach sportline springs
ASCD SS hood, high-rise Z-28 spoiler
Flowmaster cat-back
TBI mods
383 implantation soon to come.

jjstealth2000

Hey I know the Feeling Well. Have your VATS system Checked. I lost my 89 Fbird for 3 months to that blasted System Needless to say I rewired My entire ignition system. PUSH BUTTON BABY If your wondering its the Thick purple wire in the upper wire loom near the firewall. just slap 12 volts to that and you should be all set
Oh Before ya try that check the linkage in the steering column to the actual switch. The switch is down under the dash on the top side of the steering column its kinda hard to get too

JJ

Omar

When you tested this, did you have the key in the run position?

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L

thunderstick

I had a very similar problem a few months ago... it started when it wanted to... What I ended up doing was disconnecting the battery and starter wires and used a wire brush and dremel w/ a wire brush and cleaned every single terminal, stud, etc. Got 'em all nice and clean, hooked it all back up and haven't had a problem since. I found out that was the problem when the last time it happened I reached under the car and was able to wiggle the wires on the starter enough to make a decent contact and get it started up. It did it to me for about 3-4 months, and I fixed back in September - not a problem since.

KAM

griffbsmokin

your problem should be fixed by getting a new ignition lock cylinder an a new key with the proper resister. plug it in at the base of the column to bypass the factory alarm or change out the cylinder completly.

Muehlbauer

I, would be willing to bet your problem is with the 'security' aspect, that is factory designed, into your ignition.

There are two little 'bushings' inside your ignition switch, these may be worn, or, you may need to replace your key, because it is worn.

Does your 'security light' on the dash stay on when your car (won't) start? If so then wait for the light to go off before trying to start your car.

If the light won't go off, then your problem is with the security system, you'll have to address that problem first.

You may, (I did), get by, by very carefully taping your key so that the 'chip's' shiny metal part is isolated, though exposed. Then, take a small piece of foil and very carefully tape it to the key's chip part, making sure there is a good contact between the foil and the shiny (conducting) part of the chip.

What this does is increase the surface area so that the 'bushings' inside the ignition get better contact with the chip. This enhances the security systems ability to read through the chip.

If you find this works, then you may need to replace your ignition, because it is worn out. I, have no idea what it would cost you to have it done, but, I do know you will need a tool to press down on the locking plate, after removing the steering wheel, so as to remove the ringlet, thereby allowing the turn signal apparatus to come out exposing the ignition locking screw.

Do this first-it is simple to do-just be sure to watch out for the 'horn' part inside, which is two little pieces that can be tricky to reinstall.
Mule

Fast-Formula

I had the same trouble awile back,Replaced the ignition switch $50.00through GM plus
new key $25.00each.It took care of the problem but what a pain in the A$$.Also you
can make a tool to help with getting to the
ignition cylinder once the steering wheele is
removed.