I recently put a custom stereo in a 1992 Camaro RS 3.1 L v6 with air conditioning. I have a 300 watt bass amplifier in the trunk, and whenever I get deep bass, the voltmeter drops about 3 or 4 volts and the lights dim, but when the bass stops, it goes to normal. I know this is normal, but does it mess up my alternator, battery, or anything else like fuel injection? Please let me know.

I'm a novice when it comes to highpower audio, but I've heard my sons talk about installing a 1 microfarad capacitor to combat that problem. The ones they got were about 3" diameter and 9" long. They were fairly expensive, around $90-$100 if memory serves. One son has about a $600 alternator and special drycell battery to power his system.

I don't know about permanent damage, but a voltage drop like that surely must affect performance.

They're probably talking about 1 farad capacitors, not 1 microfarad.

Big stereos eat batteries and alternators on a regular basis. Get yourself a 1 farad capacitor-it will hold a charge so that your stereo draws from it instead of the battery. Those prices are about right and they're very easy to install.

You are correct sir! My bad, I guess I'm just too used to dealing with micro and pico farads

Yup, you need a cap. It might be a good idea to step up to a 140A alt. also.

My system ain't the biggest in the world, if maxed the head unit and amp to peak performance I could probably get around 500 watts, but I keep it at about 200 for highs and roughly 150 for lows.

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1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS
Purple w/ T-Tops
3.1 Litre 140hp/185tq V6
700-R4 Transmission
Custom Sound System
Website: http://hometown.aol.com/tuffguy610/index.html

I have a 480 watt amp for the 8 speakers inside, and a 750 watt for the subs. My lights only dim when the car is at idle, and the sterio is set on deaf.



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Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28


350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust,Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake

If the dimming headlights disturb you, a capacitor will help. But it probably won't do a lot to improve the sound, or make any of the other parts last longer.

But, of course, that's only my personal take on the issue. If you want to read a lot of different opinions, go do a search in the Forums at www.carsound.com.

Thank you chris, I will have to consider if it is worth it now. You probably just saved me a lot of money, thank you. I was under the impression that my electrical system would completely go haywire if the headlights and everything keeps dimming. But if it doesn't hurt it, then I will keep it the way it is.

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1992 Chevrolet Camaro RS
Purple w/ T-Tops
3.1 Litre 140hp/185tq V6
700-R4 Transmission
Custom Sound System
Website: http://hometown.aol.com/tuffguy610/index.html

For a 300w (even if it is really 300w) amp - you car will be fine. Do some research on caps and if you want one then go buy one, but you don't need one. Dimming of the lights is normal. You should probably be more worried about protecting your hearing.

I think the cap Idea is a waste of money unless you plan to compete

you are better off getting a bigger alternator and possibly a second battery

a cap does not magically provide power all it does is provide current fast but the cap needs to recharge that power has to come from somewhere IE the exact set you have now


you need to provide a constant source of current beef up your altenator and then get another battery


I have competed for years trust me spend your money the right way

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1986 IROC 350 5spd
just installed a TPI from a 1988 IROC, 24# lt1 injectors,165 ECM MAF, custom sub frame

I was just about to post on the same subject when I came across your post. My car has the same problem, I have a 305 tpi with a 500w amp and a 12" sub in the back. I bought a new alternator when I installed the system and it lasted 2 months. I just got another one and it is already starting to squeal when I first start the car. I'm going to get a bigger alternator to try to solve the problem. I would recomend the same for you because the small one is just going to get ruined because it can't handle the watts.

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1987 WS6TA
305 tpi, 3.23 gears,3" flowmaster catback, suspension upgrades, cam, 160* stat, 1 1/2" drop springs, 500w system.

hmm,
well, lemme tell you, not bout the little engine that could, but the ALT that wont die,
ive had my system in for two weeks on a stock alt with a new dual fan setup, random lighting.
a jlaudio300/4
a fosgate 800a2
custom alarm
and omg, the lights, not dim, flash to the beat of the music.
occaasionaly youll hear whine, in the background.
but ive been asking where to get a new alt,
an alt will help for the bass hits, butit is not a solution, i have to be careful because i wanna do lt1 swap next year.

thnx
OH, Check the pics in my SIG!!! please VOTE!

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91 FireBird 305 V-8
Edelbrock Catback, Custom Alarm. Fourth Gen Console. i have six cupholders. all for starbucks!
Go|)Created The Earth, And Then Turned Up The Bass.
Here's My Audio Install!

"Honda's FOR ME TO POOP ON!" -Triumph...

Although a cap will probably work short term, there is a larger problem here. Under normal circumstances the lights should not dim and your voltage drop 3-4 volts with a 300 W amp. There's no way it could draw enough amp's to cause that kind of voltage loss. Look at the fuse in the amp, my guess is that it's not higher then about 20 A. It will almost never reach that point. Most of the time you will be drawing 50-60% of the fuse at most. That means right around 12 A. If your electrical system can't handle a 12 A load, then you better have your car looked at. In other words your alternator is probably on the way out and you would be better suited to replace that first.

lets do a little math 12 volts right?

drawing 25 amps? using a little ohms law

presto 12/25 = 0.48 OHMS

you hook a 0.48 OHM resistor to ground in you electricall system ans see what happens to your lights



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1986 IROC 350 5spd
just installed a TPI from a 1988 IROC, 24# lt1 injectors,165 ECM MAF, custom sub frame