i have a ro rs 305 tbi, and my alternator is not charging the battery, both are brand new. im going to check the grounds but both of my manuals dont even have the alternator in the wiring diagram. thanks in advance

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player, soon to have 90-91 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, and all new lowered suspension.

 

The alternator is self grounded through it's case to the motor.

 

is there a way to self ground it i mean wiring it to something else, the reason its not groundingis probably becaude i painted the block

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player, soon to have 90-91 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, and all new lowered suspension.

[This message has been edited by killer305 (edited November 18, 2001).]

 

You could run a ground strap between the alternator and the negative terminal on the battery.

 

Forget the ground strap.

Just sand the boltholes, the flats, and the reinforcement bracket (not the whole thing, just where the parts come in contact with each other) so you have nice shiny metal-to-metal contact.

 

I'd guess that the lack of a ground is not the problem, since the mounting screws thread into the heads & "bite" into the iron. Check the voltage at the brown & red wires at the alternator plug & verify that there is power (about 12 volts) at both when the ignition is on. Also verify power at the large lug at the rear of the alternator.

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Tim

1992 Z28, 305 TPI 5 speed, 12.0 sec @ 114.8 mph

1984 Berlinetta 305 TPI Auto, 13.8 sec @ 99.7 mph

 

hiho hiho its off to the mechanics we go. it sucks i can build an engine, but i hate the electrical sheit.

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player, soon to have 90-91 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, and all new lowered suspension.

 

That's only half the game. You gotta learn the whole picture . Electronics are great but if you only know one or the other you're loosing money. Last time I was at a mechanics was for my diff gears and posi. I just didn't have the time or tools to do it. Besides, that is probably one of the only things that requires lots of experience. Same thing goes for eprom burning.
If you think about electronics and have access to a multimeter you can self teach yourself everything. That's what I did.

 

yeah i know what you mean im young (17) and want to learn it all but that takes time. i first learned about engines and am pretty knowaldgeable at this time. im also learing alot about suspension due to that being my next mods. however i have heard transmissions and rear ends are not things to screw with. but yeah i will eventually learn about electronics, and have learned a good amount due to this adventure. I can wire stereo's both home and car, and can wire houses. i guess i just need a good wiring diagram. afterall i have both a hanes and chiltons manuales but neither even had an alternator in the diagrams. like i said eventually i will learn. and one more thing, building your first engine is awsome, i could not stop smileing for like 5 hours after i started her. people thought i couldnt do it, and know i find the same people asking me if i can fix there cars

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player, soon to have 90-91 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, and all new lowered suspension.

 

It sounds like you have a bad fusible link. I had a similar problem on my old RS I had. I was changing the valve cover and accidently hit the alternator with the cover and shorted it out. Long story short my alternator would only charge the battery up to 9 volts. So you could have a fusible link thats bad or going bad.

Brendan


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1987 IROC-Z, engine, tranny, and other "stuff"

 

fixed, the wire that goes to the accesory's wasnt hooked up

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90 RS 305 tbi, 4 3/4" cowl Hood, Edelbrock TES headers, Flowmaster exhaust, Crane roller cam, comp roller rockers, vortec heads/intake, ported tbi, w/new injectors, MSD probillet Distributer/ coil, 1 inch tbi spacer, air foil, 14x4 k&n flat base air cleaner, Rebuilt 700r4 w/ B&M shift kit, B&M Megashifter, 3.23 posi, 2 12 RF's with mtx amp, top of line alpine cd player, soon to have 90-91 gfx, z-28 wing, new paintjob, rims, and all new lowered suspension.