You know the buzzer that sounds when u leave the keys in the ignition? i think that switch is making a bad contact and makes my buzzer sound like a dying animal. if the buzzer is sounding because of something other then the key, like the lights being on, it sounds fine. so im pretty sure its just a bad contact in the ignition. what do i clean off to fix this?

 

As strange as it sounds, I had a similiar problem with a very worn key. I used a new spare one day and the problem was 'solved.'

JamesC

 

makes sense i guess, key gets worn and slightly smaller, probably not making full contact. how much is a spare key from a dealer that has the VATS resistor thing on it?

 

I've seen them anywhere from $30 - $70

Shop around and call dealerships to get the cheapest price....

 

why dont you get one cut? for a buck...

 

because my key has the VATS on it. if i got a duplicate key without it, it wouldnt work unless i bybass the VATS. are there places that do keys with the resistor already in it?

 

i doubt it.. you will probably have to go to a GM dealership. unless you can pay extra for a locksmith* to get one.

* = if that would be a place to get keys cut

 

i believe you can buy an uncut key with a selected resistor from Ecklers.com and they just take it to wal-mart and have it cut.

 

here it is from ecklers.com

Part# A9129-1

1986-96 Ignition Key VATS Code 1

$14.99 EA.

Quantity Needed:



Specially Coded

Because 1986 and later Corvette have specially coded ignition keys, it makes good sense to have a couple of spares. To order a key, have your local GM dealer measure the resistance on your key (it will be a 1 thru 15 value code) and add that code to the part number A9129 (i.e. A9129-1, A9129-5, etc.).

 

Try just sticking any other key in and see what happens. Just as long as it's a GM key. It doesn't have to be one for your car (remember, you don't have to turn the key for the buzzer function).

Also, another idea. Sometimes, there are two separate buzzers in one module. One for the key, and one for headlights. you can tell these by opening the door with the key in, and by turning on the headlights. If there are two buzzers, you should be able to hear them both. In that case, it would mean one of the two buzzers is getting bad, or a bad connection.


this is kinda OT, but buzzer related, so I'll ask here. Does anybody know of a replacement buzzer that makes a different sound? I find the ones that are more of a chime, or an intermittent repetetive "bing" sound to be much less annoying than the buzzer, but I've never bothered to try and replace it.

 

sorry for digging up an old post, but I am also searching for an answer to this ^^

anyone know of a more pleasing chime that will fit right in?

 

You can have my buzzer it sounds like a dying cat in heat.

 

Back on topic, if I recall, the buzzer is activated by a +12V signal. Just find it, and replace with a light, or a different buzzer. You could make something yourself, just need a 555, an op amp and some caps and resistors and a speaker.

 

My buzzer doesn't work at all. Any idea where it's hidden at so I can replace it. It's not like I can follow the sound.

 

The warning chime on a Firebird is located on the Convenience Center. This is a small panel that swings down from under the dash in the far right side of the driver's lower bolster, just to the left of the radio pedestal. The chime unit is plugged into that.



However, the chime unit relies on an input from the contacts in the steering column. If the contact in the steering column is marginal, a new chime unit may act just the same.



A new key may or may not solve the problem, since wear in the lock cylinder itself may contribute to the problem.

A new VATS key can (with cut) be had at a locksmith for $9. They used to be about $7, but prices are increasing. Dealerships are about three times that price. Periodic lubrication of the lock cylinder (and all lock cylinders) with graphite (DON"T use anything but graphite) will prolong its useful life.

 

Thanks vader, I've been trying to find the stupid buzzer for a while. As much as I hate hearing the noise, I like knowing when I leave my dims on, when I leave the car.

 

It is called SILENCE. Yank the buzzer at the base of the column and no more problem.

 

Exactly right and when changing out lock cylinders you can KILL the buzzer by removing the Clip looking thing that snaps in place just below and at the inboard end of lock cylinder.

 

It is called READING POSTS CORRECTLY. I don't want silence.

 

Calling me an idiot, you are the one wanting the door buzzer to sing you a song. You are probably all of 21, go F yourself and next time you call someone an idiot you might duck. Jerk...took the time to type a smartass comment...no other name for people like you. How many other comments telling you to disconnect the damn thing and shut up ?

 

Maybe you should have shown me respect in the first place and not given a smartass answer to a question I didn't ask. I'm a jerk? How did you expect me to react?

lol