OK people, went to go to the store, and got in the car and it wont start. everything works like normal- SECURITY light comes on for about 2 seconds, then turns off- is that normal?? this is very frustrating as i'm sure you all can imagine. I just got done doing the T-5 swap and i cut all the wires that go to the harness that went to the automatic shifter. I spliced in the neutral safety switch and everything. I even spliced the wires together and still nothing. There were 2 thin wires 1-orange and 1-black are they important? i wired up the blue and green reverse lights and they work fine. the big head scratcher is that after i was done with all the work, the car cranked up fine and i drove it home from the shop. then about an hour later, i went outside and it wouldnt crank-- PLEASE HELP!!! I did a search but noone has had this problem!!

 

come on people, i'm dying over here!!

the security light comes on for 2 seconds, then goes off- thats normal- so what else could the problem be??

 

Here is what the car is doing(not doing)

when i turn the key to RUN, everything works like normal
gauges come alive
fuel pump starts to prime the system like usual
the SECURITY light comes on for 2 seconds, then goes off

when you turn the key to the START position, nothing happens
the temp gauges pegs to the right side
nothing happens..

PLEASE HELP!!

 

well, im not a VATS expert, but to my knowledge the car will still turn over if vats is bad, it just won't start. Does it even click like a starter soleniod or anything?? Double check all your connections at the battery/starter and solenoid. My solenoid connection was loose once, had the same problem. If all else fails, shoot me an e-mail and i'll give ya the PH# of a great mechanic and my best bud who lives in ALB's. He's really awsome with GM stuff and he's ex- air force too.

 

Its the vats system, i have a 91z that did the same thing today. Security light comes on for 2 secs and then rotate key and nothing. Mine is intermittent, sometimes starts and sometimes doesn't. Either the 2 wires going into the column are getting frayed/broken or its misreading the resistance of the pellet in your car key. I'm doing this tomorrow..https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml

Good luck!

Dan91Z28.

 

how sure are you that its in fact the Vats system- i dont want to order the new ignition if thats not the problem- ALSO, what do i need to do to the computer to make it read the new ignition and "take to it"

 

its not the computer that reads the key, its the vats module.

 

Hey I just reread your post and noticed you said the security light goes out after 2 seconds but then it doesn't start. After doing some more reading on the board last night i found out that if vats is messing up the secutiy will stay on. So sorry man my bad. Its something else. Have you checked the starter relay in the drivers kick panel? Also found in another post...If the light(security) is off, you may have a dead spot on your starter motor, meaning it's not going to crank all the time. Just replace it and you should be good to go.

And in a different post "If the security light goes out after approx 2 sec then the decoder and the pellet contact are OK. If the light stays on, VATS is malfunctioning.
"

Ditto "There is also a starter enable relay located behind the driver side kick panel. That relay is driven by the VATS system and basically opens up the solenoid voltage if it doesn't see the correct PASS key. " IF you have too just jump that relay, should have 3 wires going to it.

hope that helps

Dan91Z28.

 

can you give me a little better description of the relay? when i took off the kick panel by my left foot/clutch foot- there is only one "relay" looking device that is connected with some sort of pin to the side of the wall? is that it?

what about fusible links? could they be bad? i need to get this fixed, but spend as little amount of money as i can.
Dan91Z28, i appreciate your help, keep the advice coming :hail:

 

i ve had 5 cars with the VATS in it and none had the starter disable, i believe there are 2 different kinds of Vats. One disables the fuel and the other disables the starter and/or fuel???

 

It could be a number of things...but first, find out if the starter itself is dead or not.

Make sure the car is in neutral. Lift the car, get underneath, and apply 12V to the lonely wire by itself on the starter. Does the car crank?

If it does not crank, then your starter is dead. If it does crank, then we have a different problem.

Post back with results.

And PLEASE DONT FORGET TO KEEP THE CAR IN NEUTRAL. We dont want you getting hurt.

 

Yeah if the security light goes out after 2 secs then vats is cool. Omar is on the right track by just bypassing everything and jumping the starter directly. Now if that works and the starter cranks next is to see if we have 12v at the starter w/the key in the start position. So just have a friend w/a 12v test light hold it to the connector on the starter while you crank it. Good luck!

Dan91Z28.

 

any other suggestions? TTT

 

i would just build a 50 hertz generator from a 555 timerand elininate the VATS all together. then you can run vette chips or camaro ,trans am chips from various cars. To the VATS Engineer Demi *** @ GM :hail: :rockon:

 

I meant to say, VATS Engineer Demigods at GM, I guess you cant say *** in here? Hook that 50 hertz timer circuit to pin B6 on the (165) and equiv. computer.

 

umm, ya, thats all GREEK to me-- care to explain?

 

hey i am having the same problem and i pulled the relay, then i ran the part number at gm parts it says that it is a body wiring relay. The part number is 12065122, can someone check to see if it the correct part number for what you guys are talking about. Thanks richard

 

really guys look, we should all do these Irocs a favor and eliminate the VATS, i have to get it done tomorrow. Do you really think that a thief would really know if you've eliminated VATS or not? If i were a thief, i would cut wire (B6) from ur harness and hook my little generator up to it lol. But seriously, you should check the small wire going to the starter,(closest one to the block) and see if its tight. Oh yeah, i eliminated the cold start valve on my 87 Iroc and the car did start, as it did in the 89 formula. I hear the chips in 89 have the ontime Built in to the programming when the car is cold. I have a jet stage 2 chip for the 87 Iroc and the 89 Vette chip i have is more radical(more agressive fuel and timming) curves. Must be cause of the aluminum heads. And i think the aluminum heads have smaller chambers too. Ill have to build the VATS eliminator circuit tommorow so i can run those VETTE chips i have in my 87 IROC. Bros stock 86 VETTE ran a 14 flat . Not bad for a stock vette with the 3.07 gears. I have the computer, chip and fuel injection off that car. I put that in my formula 305 car and it ran the best with that setup. Stock, the 305 89 Formula with the vette stuff on it ran 14.6. Now i have it on the 87 Iroc. The thing wont start yet with the vette chips till i get that circuit built. Someone stop me, I've gone mad!!!!!!!!! You have to thank GM for the VETTE:hail: and are the corbras Really spanking the Z06 Vette? a brand new cobra at our track with no mods ran three runs at 13.0x @ 114? I think the vettes ran 12's.

 

i have an 89 rs camaro with the vats and about 6 mounths ago i spent 90 bucks putting a new vats system in my car. now my car will not turn over agian, but everything else works fine. when i pull out my guages fuse my car will turn over put when i pluge the fuse back in the car will not turn over. i don't think that it is the vats it self but something else.

does any one know how the get read of vats alltogether? i don't want to have to mess with it any more i just want to get read of it.

 

dude, im workin on it right now

 

I've got the same problem! My security light stays on! I read the vats bypass, but I was curious if it can be bypassed w/o soldering in a resistor. something like just snipping some wires and leaving it at that.

 

i Built this circuit and it works. build it and connect it to pin/wire B6. and never wory about that VATS. Email me if you want that circuit.

 

some sonofa______ jerry rigged an alarm in the car, and then removed SOME of the components, but not all. he had wired a relay into the Crank wire and that relay gave out. so that sucks but its fixed now!!! finally back on the road THANK YOU TO EVERYONE FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!!:hail:

 

Vats is very effective at keeping your car at where you parked it. The type of theft you're most likely to encounter is the amateur joyrider variety that smashes the steering column and drives off. This type of theif probably doesn't even know that vats exists in the first place, never mind to avoid cars with the feature. Thirdgens are old low dollar value cars and no professional theif is going to waste time & effort stealing an $2000 thirdgen when they can steal a $20,000 vehicle with a similar level of effort.

 

put a hidden switch in the dash somewhere and turn it off and it will never start. beats messen with the VATS crap.

 

Ok here is the story. I have an 89RS Convertible and It will not turn over. I have a Good battery, Brand New starter, Replaced the Ignition switch, Anti theft relay (one in Kick Panel) also I replaced the neutral safety switch. I have checked the voltage At the starter and I am getting 12V to the side furthest away from the block and I am not getting any voltage on the on closest to the block (with ignition switch in any position). Any Ideas. Does anyone have an electrical diagram of the starting circuit? Thanks for any Ideas. Richard

 

what does the security light do when you turn the key to start?
if it comes on for about 2 seconds, and goes out, your VATS is fine- and its gotta be something else-- most likely your ignition wiring, or starter wiring-

I had the same problem in mine and it turned out to be a bad relay in the crank wire. some schmuch added an alarm and then didnt take it out the right way..

 

also i forgot to mention. I have purchased two new keys, about two or so weeks ago and ran just fine. My security light does not come on. Thanks Richard

 

if the security light doesnt come then its either a blown bulb, OR more likely- your VATS is messed up. bottom line. If check the resistance on the key and see what it reads. also, do a search for VATS and you'll find anything and everything you could ever want to know about VATS

 

Y dont you just buy a chip from the dealer, 60 bucks,for an 88 350 Iroc broadcast code (ABWN). This wil eliminat ur VATS problem.

 

This might sound silly, but did you make sure the car was in park? lol

 

the damn ignition switch (mechanical) was bad. Kiss that 270 good bye. Thanks for all the help anyway. Richard

 

i don't have a computer in my car and it still wont start with the key but i have been able to make it start in the past with out an ecm so i don't think that the ecm has anything to do with the vats system.

 

Yes the VATS has to do with the computer. The VATS with the right key in ignition, sends a 50 hertz signal,(50% duty cycle,+5 volts) to pin B6 (which is cranking fuel enable input to the ecm). You could be right, ive never tried to fill the plenum up with starteing fluid to see if it would fire. B6 cranking fuel enable input of the ECM is located on the small connector.

 

another question for mrt89rs, how did you get fuel into the motor to run with no computer (also no on time for the injectors) is quite puzzling. also, the 87 Iroc 5.7L chip i discribed to get from the dealer WILL start the car with no VATS. The cranking fuel enable input for the VATS is not used cause the car had no VATS. also, the 89 vette chip i had wouldnt start cause of VATS, i built that circuit and hooked it up, now i can drive anywhere. disconect my ciruit and the car wont start, imagine that.

 

if your having problems with VATS, and you have an 86-89 TPI z-28,iroc,trans am, formula,corvette, the car WILL start and run fine with or with out VATS working if you buy the chip i discribed (87 Iroc 5.7L (ABWN). If you arent sure if the VATS is the problem, buy the chip, if you never wanna be bothered by VATS, BUY ThE CHIP AND QUIT DOUBTING ME.

 

every car ive had, the starter worked no matter what. strange

 

with a $80 carter fuel pump form don's hot rod shop that went to my 650 holy cab and ingnitions came from the hei distrabuter that i got from a 72 chevy pickup. the only problem my car has is that the starter will not turn and that when i pull the fuse for my gagues the car will turn over fine. I have pulled the ecm out of my car when it had the lo3 setup and it turned over but would not run. so that is why i don't think that you need your ecm in order to turn the starter over. buyt i will pull the ecm out of my 88 l98 iroc and see if my car will turn over ( i guess it is worth a try)

 

the ECM for a 88 L98 wont work for the 89 rs. You say the starter does engage with the computer disconnected? and it doesnt work if you have it connected? wow

 

the starter would turn with out the ecm and then one day it just didn't want to turn over. i put my old computer in and the starter still wont turn over. i know that the starter is good but i don't know why it will not turn over with the key. i have tryed it whit and with out the ecm pluged into the car it it does not work. I just put a new vats system in my car less then a year ago and i don't want to spend any more money on fixing my vats. i just want to yank it out of my car and wire something up that will work

 

do you have any kind of aftermarket alarm on your car?
if so, check the crank wire and see if it is getting juice- does eveything act normal up to the point you try and crank the engine? if so, the crank wire might be messed up somewhere, i just got dont having that headache in my car

 

I accidently started my car with the Code reader in the diagnosis port. It ran for a minute, and then died. Any one know why?!? I replaced the ignition module, ecm, and prom chip. Normally, when you turn the key, but not the car on, the brake, seat belts and check engine light. The check engine light wont come on, and the car cranks, but refuses to start. Any ideas? I need a car. I have 2, but the other one blew a rod, so I am messin with this one

Thanks for any help...

 

well i found out what my problem was, the vats relay that is down buy the kick panel was lose and it was not getting any power, haha any ways thanks for all the help

 

I cant figure out y you all dont just cut the relays out and get that chip, u would be a lot happier.

 

i am going to splice into the green and white wire that goes to the nutural safty swicth and the yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch and then trough my computer in the garbage and never have to deal with vats or having to have a ecm in my car.

 

ur better off that way if u have a modified motor.

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but now i am in need of help.


Car is 89RS 305 TBI L03. Has VATS.

After searching like crazy, Ive located the starter enable relay, and the vats black box (pass key). I've located the purple wire thats supposed to get 12V when the ignition is switched.

Problem is, it doesnt.

I used a Volts meter on the Start enable relay, and this is what I get with the ignition turned to "run" (one click from "Start")

Four wires total:
Yellow Wire1: 12V
Yellow Wire2: 12V
Green/black wire: 12V
Solid Green wire: nothing.
when switched to "start" nothing changes.

the starter always got 12V before I Ripped out the L03 and it's ECM. I Dont care about the vats, <b>I just need the car to start when i turn the key to "start".</b> What wire off the ignition switch needs to go where to make this work. It now has an aftermarket ECU and wiring harness in it, but i was hoping the vats would still work. guess not, now i just need to crank it over. right now i used a push button on the purple wire to crank it, but i want it to start when i turn the key, not some ghetto button.