Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

Installed new dash & car won't start now!

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Old May 11, 2003 | 06:16 PM
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From: Houston, TX
Installed new dash & car won't start now!

All the lights, gauges, buzzers work. Put the key in the ignition and not getting anything. Car won't start, crank or anything. Fuel pump won't even prime. By bro-in-law checked out the computer harness with his nice Fluke. Looks like the ecm is getting voltage. I know a faulty ignition or loose wire can cause the car not to start. But can it cause the fuel pump not to prime? Would a faulty ecm cause the car not to start and pump not to prime? Any help would be appreciated as I would hate to remove the dash...AGAIN!

Thanks,
Brandon

Last edited by 84 Challenge; May 11, 2003 at 07:34 PM.
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Old May 11, 2003 | 07:33 PM
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From: Houston, TX
The ecm is kicking out an error code, don't know what it is (don't have a scanner). The SES light blinks twice then stays on after ignition is turned on.
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Old May 11, 2003 | 07:57 PM
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The reason why the starter will not engage is either a failure to complete an electrical connection to the starter selonoid or the starter must be replaced. Since you replaced the dash and possibly disturbed the electrical connections, start by checking the neutral safty switch. Verify that the harness is still plugged in and check that the switch is operating properly. After the nuetral safety switch the next most likely problem is the ignition switch. These are the primary items in the path between the battery and the starter selonoid. If both of those items test OK, drop the starter and bench check that it still works. Good Luck.

I cannot tell why the fuel pump is not working. What year is the car? Is the electric fuel pump stock? If not, where does it tap into the electrical system for power?

Steve

Last edited by Steves91z; May 11, 2003 at 08:02 PM.
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Old May 11, 2003 | 08:50 PM
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From: Houston, TX
Where is this neutral safety switch?

Brandon
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Old May 11, 2003 | 08:58 PM
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Brandon

That depends on auto or stick shift. If the car has a manual transmission the switch will be under the dash and activated by the clutch pedal. When the pedal is fully out (your not touching it) you will find a switch that the pedal is contact. As soon as you begin to press the pedal down the switch is released. If the car is an automatic, you normally can engauge the starter only if the car is in park or neutral. I am not certain where this located on your car but its most likely to be around the shifter.

What year, make, model, and type of transmission are we discussing?

Steve
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Old May 12, 2003 | 11:23 AM
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We're talking about my 1984 2.5 Camaro with a 4-spd manual. Here's what it's doing again.....fuel pump does not prime when ignition is turned on. Car does not even crank. ECM is kicking out code 12 and 34. Disconnected a few other things under the hood. ECM does not produce anything other than 12 and 34. Is the ecm going bad? BTW, I did not disconnect any other wires during the dash swap. ECM was only thing disconnected other than speedo, etc.

Brandon

Last edited by 84 Challenge; May 12, 2003 at 06:25 PM.
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Old May 12, 2003 | 09:15 PM
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Here are a couple of things to check. First, the fuel pump on your vehicle is controlled solely by the ECM. Since the pump is not running with the ignition in the on position, I would try and reseat all of the connections running into the ECM. According to the Haynes manual code 12 can occur for two reasons. If code 12 blinks out 3 times followed by code 34 (as you indicated) then code 12 is normal. If it blinks only once, this can mean that the ECM is not receiving a signal from the distributor. Book suggests checking the EST connector (plugs into the distrubutor). Code 34 is the vacuum sensor circuit. Book suggests checking the wiring going to the ECM.

The common thread here is the connections to the ECM. I would pull them off, check the terminals making sure they are clean and will make a good connection (none bent), and finally plug them back into the ECM. I might even wiggle the connection a bit to make sure that all of the connections make contact. You may also wish to check all of the fuses.

Let me know how you make out.

Steve
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Old May 12, 2003 | 10:16 PM
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Transmission: auto
Just for the hell of it--when you grabbed the metal ecm did you give off any static electricity? did you get a shock from the metal ecm? Also--not sure if it makes a difference but did you disconnect the battery? I replaced my dash also and before the swap my car ran too, since the swap it refuses to start--but it does crank w/fuel pressure-so that's where we differ.
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Old May 13, 2003 | 10:40 AM
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From: Houston, TX
Originally posted by Tonyrodz
Just for the hell of it--when you grabbed the metal ecm did you give off any static electricity? did you get a shock from the metal ecm? Also--not sure if it makes a difference but did you disconnect the battery? I replaced my dash also and before the swap my car ran too, since the swap it refuses to start--but it does crank w/fuel pressure-so that's where we differ.
I did not disconnect the battery during the swap. As far as the ecm, don't remeber any static.
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