F-ing Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: NE florida
Car: 1992 Z28 and 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: both L98s one with SD and one with MAF
Transmission: both 700R4s
F-ing Starter
Ok heres the situation. I have a 92 camaro Z28 with 350 and 4spd auto. I am on my sixth starter in six months! my car is completely stock save for flowmaster muffler and K&N air filters. I turn the key and nothing happens,nothing! I have plenty of battery juice, the radio comes on, the lights work and my fans which are wired to always run, turn on. my father and I think the heat coming from the motor is frying the solenoids. Im not sure after reading some of the troubles other people are having. I will check the starter relay. Umm how exactley do I do that. there is some sort of brace on the back of the starter to support it right? if so mine is missing do you think that could be the problem?
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 4
From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
The brace on the back is to reduce stress on the nose of the starter... I feel your pain about multiple starters... I went through plenty of lifetime warranty o'reilly starters until I finally bought an ac-delco starter (it was like 50 bucks more)... Never had a problem then...
Not having the brace won't cause your problem, and it can't be getting heat soaked if you still have the stock manifolds... I'd say upgrade to an ac-delco reman unit...
Not having the brace won't cause your problem, and it can't be getting heat soaked if you still have the stock manifolds... I'd say upgrade to an ac-delco reman unit...
if all your acc's work than id check your park neutral safety switch that is beside your auto shifter. and another thing i would also check is to make sure you have +12v on the purple wire going to your starter, that is also the same wire that comes from your p/n safety switch. i would also recomend a heat shield for your starter as well, i know their such a pain in the *** to work on, but after a while you get good at chaning them
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: NE florida
Car: 1992 Z28 and 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: both L98s one with SD and one with MAF
Transmission: both 700R4s
thanks for the advise man, but it seems like every time I threaten to do anything to the car it starts behaving again. LOL oh well I cant diagnose something thats not messing up! just my luck.
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 333
Likes: 20
From: South Jersey
Car: '16 Camaro SS, '88 IROC
Engine: 6.2 Gen V
Transmission: 6 spd TR6060
You're not really giving us much info to work on. No start conditon causes can be many, you just have to eliminate them. You said you are frying starters? Usually the only way to do that is if you crank the crap out of them or if they are engaging onto the flywheel much too tight. Cranking too much is due to problems not associated with the starter. Engagement problems are eliminated by using shims. This can happen each time you change a starter since they could each be a little different.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: NE florida
Car: 1992 Z28 and 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: both L98s one with SD and one with MAF
Transmission: both 700R4s
well my timing is set where it's supposed to be, it does take a while to start sometimes, hmmmm. I would suspect a cold start injector , but, I dont have one as it's a 92.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, Az, USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: T5
Also check your security chip. If the system doesn't detect the right resistance, your car won't start. No click, no nothing. Just something to look at. See if you can do a quick bypass. And if the car starts after that, it's the security system. The bypass is in the tech pages of this website.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 81
Likes: 7
From: Chino Hills, CA
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I had an issue like this, especially after driving for a period of time and then turning it off to run into a store. By the time i got back the car would not start. My starter was getting heat soaked. I end up getting a remote silenoid that has solved the problem for me. I was talking the guy at http://www.madelectrical.com/ He was very knowledgable. Basically he told me that the wire coming from your ignition key is not able to provide enough voltage to activate the solinoid especially when it is hot. Hope this helps.
Steve
Steve
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