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major VATS/gm security problems

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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 12:29 PM
  #1  
Grafx00's Avatar
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From: Kentucky
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305(blah)355(real soon)
Transmission: Whatever is in there now
major VATS/gm security problems

Okay, let me catch you up to where I am at now. My camaro came with that vats system installed. There was also a GM security system installed by the dealer that allowed for keyless entry etc. It also included a starter diable (I assum since I have to mash the right button on the remote in order for the car to start).

Well my car for a while wouldn't start on ocasion. I would hit the key and nothing. I narrowed it down to a hot no start problem but it started to do this even when it was cold. This has happen since I have owned the car and has progressed. Now it is dead in the water. I also had an ignition problem and replaced the igntion module 3 days after the death (The car died in a parking lot from the bad module and wouldn't restart at all. Hit the key and nothing,wouldn't turn over).

I got the car home (it decided it wanted to start, the first and only time in a week)and to rule out a bad starter cylinoid I checked the voltage to it,all fine. So the I jumpered the cylinoidf and it hit and turned the car over. Of course with the key turned to on it wouldn't start because the VATS system will diable the fuel delivery also. Also I noticed that when the key is inserted and I am attempting to start the security light comes on and stays on. There is also a red light that flashed that say INFL REST. Don't know what that is. Also intermediately the power locks will go nuts and beging flipping back and forth 2 or 3 time and then quit.

Now that the cylinoid is ruled out I suspected the security was the problem. So I went and did some research on the VATS system. I found some other posts with people having similiar problems. The chip in the key is actuall a resistor, GM had 15 values. Other peoples problems where that the contacts in the key cylinder were worn out. The system is deactivated when the resistor is inserted. Ah ha, that has to be my problem, so I thought. I found some other articles on how to defeat the system. The wiring codes for the system are white and white/white and purple.

Now I got my key and read it with my multimeter. 890ohms, if the key contacts were bad a trip to radio shack was in order. Other people had wired in a resistor between the 2 wires to permantly disable the VATS and it worked. Once back in the garage I looked down the key cylinder and the contacts were a little grody so I cleaned them up inserted the key and nothing. So under the dash I went and found the ignition harness and the 2 wires for VATS system. I traced the 2 white wires to a plug. The plug conected the 2 white wires to a purple/white wire and white/black wire. I tested to see if the cylinder whas making contact with the key at the plug with no key, 0ohms, 890 with key inserted. It appears the VATS system is OK. The circuit is being completed anyway.

Does anyone have any ideas. I believe the problem is the GM security system the dealer installed. I did have to use the remote in order to start the car and it appears the box for it under the dash has been messed with ( the tape holding it together is a give away) Not to mention the siren had been disconected. If you have any ideas please let me know. Feel free to send me and email. GeorgeD99@msn.com. My car absolutely will not start.

Thanks David



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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 06:10 AM
  #2  
Everett#2390's Avatar
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From: Va Beach VA USA
Car: Several
Engine: A good heart
Transmission: Long legs
Sounds/reads like you need to do a complete reset of the security system. There is a way to do it with the remote.

Obviously, you would have done this had there been instructions given.

I would visit an alarm/audio store and ask for a reset. Or maybe, hit the website of the manuf of the alarm. Oh wait, you said GM dealer, hmmm, might be more difficult.

Usually with VATS, I have found if one attempts to start, and no start, wait min 3 minutes, and try again with same key, 98% of the time it will start.

If worse comes to worse, you can always wire in a remote start button, a #10 AWG from starter solenoid BAT post to the switch to the SOL terminal on the starter, leave IGN key in the IGN position. After cranking, oil pressure switch will close, allowing fuel pump to come on, should start.

If one where to remove the fuses from add-on alarm, it should revert back to OE condition. I did this to my 91 300ZX with aftermarket alarm & remote start and I have no problem with the car.

Ask for a schmatic of the dealer's add-on alarm system.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 11:58 PM
  #3  
Black Beauty's Avatar
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From: Los Angeles, Ca, USA
Car: 90 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T56
i believe that the key resistor can wear down so that it no longer equals the original resistance. (its 890ohms now, but maybe when it was new it was 950?)

not sure....anyone else?
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Old Nov 15, 2004 | 04:00 PM
  #4  
Calico's Avatar
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From: Eastside
Car: 1985 Buick Regal T
Engine: 87 3.8 turbo/lc2 drive train
Transmission: 200r4brf
My trans-am is throwing this weird anti-theft code...the car will start then shut down! Mine is an 88 what should I do?
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Old Nov 16, 2004 | 12:04 AM
  #5  
DENN_SHAH's Avatar
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
Grafx00, when you tested under the dash for the 890 ohms, did you check it with the key in the run & crank positions?
the VATS wiring at the key cylinder in the column starts breaking down & can loose contact when the key is turned but check good in the off position


Black Beauty, the part that wears down on the key is just the contacts, them being worn doesn't change the resistance of the resistor pellet itself



Calico, code 46? the same as Grafx00 has done.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 04:39 PM
  #6  
Calico's Avatar
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From: Eastside
Car: 1985 Buick Regal T
Engine: 87 3.8 turbo/lc2 drive train
Transmission: 200r4brf
Mine is pulling up a code 46 also...I checked 2 keys both tested good I tested the 5 v0lt input on the computer and the 12 volt on the power input...this is gettin ridiculous NEED HELP ASAP
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 10:53 AM
  #7  
bobdole369's Avatar
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From: South Florida (NW_Broward)
Car: 1989 Firebird
Engine: 2.8L V6 MPFI
Transmission: Beat to heck 700R4
Had the same exact problem.

Does your alarm box/remote start, etc. say GM goodwrench on it?

Mine didn't even have power to it, but by being connected with 4 wires it acted as a VATS bypass.

Essentially if you just want to start the car, you need to get 890 Ohms across those two wires. Remember to unplug the VATS wires coming from the cylinder down the steering column. If its shorted in RUN or START it will be shorted even with the resistance hooked up.

Your problem completely solved forever is to get 890 ohms of resistance across those two wires. Use a resistor, or better yet a potentiometer set to 890 ohms and duct taped up there.

Of course that only is true if you don't have another VATS problem like a bad VATS relay or a VATS module.
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 09:21 PM
  #8  
Calico's Avatar
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From: Eastside
Car: 1985 Buick Regal T
Engine: 87 3.8 turbo/lc2 drive train
Transmission: 200r4brf
It was the vats changed the ignition cylinder and key cranked it over and went cruising thanks guys The Don appreciated your help no more bumming rides from my little sister
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