Hello everyone!
My alternator is going bad and I wanted to upgrade it to a 140amp alternator. My car is an 82 transam with a 305 4bbl in it, my point is everything is stock.
I went to an electrical shop today and asked if my alternator could be rebuilt to put out 140amps and they said that it just couldn't be done because it would burn up and if they do it it would be about $500 to $700 with no warranty. That's when I told them "the hell with you guys" and walked out.

It can be done right?

Any sugestions are welcome.

Thanks

Chris

 

Just replace it, I've seen 160A on ebay, and if you need to sell it as all stock then swap the old one. Not that changing an alternator is going to change the value or collectibility of a car (in my opinion).

 

Rebuilding the stock alternator to 140A spec is quite a feat, tho 700$ and no warranty sounds like a royal rip-off to me. Not to mention, the cooling isn't adaquate for 140A in a sub-100A casing...

When I replaced the 63A alternator on my '72 C10 I bought a 105A version off ebay for $12+SH, came off a '93 Suburban. I had to machine down the pulley a little and swap fans, but otherwise it worked well. I'd say spend some time on ebay, you can get all kinds of nice chrome alternators and high output ones for pennies on the dollar compared to what napa/carquest would charge.

 

If you want the stock look just buy A/C delco 105 amp one. It should have more output then your old one.

 

Powermaster makes several options for a stock looking high-amp alternator. I currently use a stock satin finish 140-amp from powermaster. You can pick one of these up from Summit, Jegs, or whoever you prefer for under $200. Mine has been running strong for around 5 years now. If you don't mind spending the bucks (over $400), Powermaster has also started making a CS-130 style alternator that pumps out 200 amps.

 

If everything is stock, then why do you think you need an 140 amp alt. Until I switch over to the TPI motor in 98, my 82 Firebird ran on th orginal Alt. I believe that I had to replace the bushhes one time.

If you want the 140 amp PowerMaster would be the why to go.

 

Look up motorcityreman on ebay, he sells them for about 160, and they make 70-80a at idle. also come with a lifetime warranty. I am getting 2, one for my z24 one for my formula.

 

just so you know, the "140 Amp" powermaster alternator puts out about 105amps at idle, and right at about 157amps at highway.

for $150 from summit... a reliable source.

sounds like that ebay guy is a rip

 

I relize you may not be looking for the ultimate alternator.
but if you want to buy one altenator and forget about and never touch it again i would get an ohio generter.
Ive used and sold every kind of altenator out their at my shop. and they all have thier short commings but the only bad thing about the ohio's are their price. That size would run you about $500.00 but they are hot rated meaning if they say they put out 140 amps they will do that even your your third gen is 220 degrees under the hood like our cars like to get. and more than often youll probable get more like 165 175 out of it under nicer conditions. and you wont have to worry about burning up your diods from the underhood heat like the factory and factory altinators.
as i said it might be over kill but i figured id let you know the real deal from another thirdgenner.

 

CS144 from a mid '90s full size GM or lumina van.
I made the exact same post about a month ago.
$50, if you want new bearings etc, $90. No shipping costs or other garbage.

 

Sonix, what kind of amperage would you get from that CS-144 from the mid-sized van?

idle/max

 

Not sure, haven't done it yet.
If you get the right year, they're 140A max, and i've heard idle is around 100A.
Do a search with my name, and "higher output alt" and you'll find the thread, ended up with a lot of info in it, including which exact vehicles have this alternator etc.... It's pretty common.
In my eyes it's the best choice for needing more amperage.

 

What do our 105's put out at idle? by my calculations, its about 30amps, because when the headlights, foglights, engine fan, blower motor, and A/C are on, my car drops to 11.8-12.2 volts at idle... (when the alternator is hot,) when it's cold it can typically hold 12.8 volts.

If I turn off the engine fan, or A/C, or the foglights, or headlights, (any of them,) my voltage goes back up to 13.2-13.8

That's why I believe it's right on the limit of the alternator.

that CS-144 from the van, (if your rough estimate is close,) sounds fairly close to the output specs of the powermaster 140... but for much cheaper...

hopefully easy to install though.

 

Sorry to everyone that had answered in this post. My computer had gone to "computer heaven" right after this post so I was unable to answer and clear a bit more my post.

When I said it was stock all I mean is that it is stock at the moment, eventually I plan to do a couple of upgrades and the alternator is one of them.

I bought the powermaster alternator model 47294. I was told it would be a direct bolt on but when I tried to install it I ran into the problem of the alternator being a bit smaller than the stock alternator and therefore I'm not able to reach the bracket on one side when trying to install it.

It is anything I can do other than return it? Is there a bracket that I can use for this application? My car is 1982 trans am with a 305 engine in it.

Thanks again for all the help.

I hope I'm a little more clear this time.

Chris

 

damn, that's annoying.

 

Hi Chris,
When putting in the 350TPI motor, we was not able to use the orginal alt braket. So I I end up using one of the chrome universal brackets. Had to cut the end off of the chrome bracket to make it fit at the water pump. Have had no problems with using the chrome bracket.

 

Which crome bracket are you referring to? Are you using your stock alternator?

Thanks

Chris

 

Its a chrome bracket. they are available at most auto parts stores. I am now using one of the Power Master alternators