Does anyone have the wiring diagram to show how the rear hatch pull down motor is wiried up? When I put my tail lights in I kinda cut the wires going to the motor, and being the moron I am, can't figure out where they were supposed to go again. It seems like it should work, I have the power and the ground hooked up, but it's still not working. My hatch is currently tied down with a piece of rope just incase the catch decides to let go. Thanks in advance.

 

Posted in here:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...postid=2512716

 

thanks a lot

 

Perhaps these will be a little more informative.

 

And now for page 2. Sorry I didn't respond to your PM sooner. Had a problem with the server.

 

no problem. just one question, where's the hatch release relay located? i know the extend relay is on the inside where the tail lights mount.

 

maybe you guys can help me with this without actually seeing it. I put in the trans am lights and cut my old harness. in doing so, i had to cut the red/white wire, and 2 black wires in addition to the ones that went to the lights. when i wired them back up, i connected red/white to red/white, and since i figured all the blacks were grounds, i just connectors to attach all of them together to the ground wire from the light harness where they orginally connected. now i keep blowing lid fuses and dont know why. i know the black wires go to the ground on the body and the other goes to the last spot on the connector that attached to the motor itself fartherst from the red/white wire.

 

The red/white wire is the one that supplies power to the hatch release. In cutting this wire you might have caused the fuse to blow. It is an in-line fuse located in the wire bundle near the fuse panel and it is the "LID" fuse. BTW, the hatch release relay is located in the center console near the parking brake assembly.

 

alright, i'll check on those fuses, but wouldn't i have no current running through it if i blew a fuse? and if there was no current running through it, i wouldn't blow fuses in the fuse panel?

 

The hatch release switch operates off the "ACC" fuse and the extend relay operates off the "LID" fuse. Both of these fuses are "HOT" at all times. Unless you had disconnected the battery prior to cutting and splicing these wires there is a good chance that the fuses blew when the wires were cut.

 

alright, thanks a lot. i'm going to check on that in-line fuse right now. i really hope that's it, because my car's stuck in the driveway with the hatch stuck open and it's getting dark, haha. if that's not it, i'll be back soon.

 

alright, no luck finding the inline fuse. is it in that big taped up group of wires somewhere. i tried putting another fuse in the "lid" spot with the battery disconnected, and the second i reattached it, i heard it blow. i have to have something wired wrong or it wouldn't do that right?

 

alright, i'm giving up for the night. the only new thing i've learned is, when i cut the wire to the ground on the car, the headlights pop up but don't go on and it makes the beeping noise to let you know the lights are on. so i reattached that, and the headlights went down, but i still can't work the hatch and i still blow the "lid" fuse in the fuse box as soon as i connect the battery or the connector to the motor while the battery is plugged in. so, i don't know too much about electronices, but i must somehow be jumping the switch itself, or the switch in the relay so that i have constant power going to the motor and it's blowing the fuse? is that anywhere near a possibility. i followed the red/white all the way from the fuse box to the rocker panel, then i followed it from the tail light harness to where it goes into the plastic thing on the rocker panel. i also found the thing under the console with the wire from the e brake, but nothing looked weird there. so, i'm back where i started, only with a lot of blown fuses .

 

One of the black wires you cut may have been for the hatch release solenoid. IMO it is stupid that GM used a black wire as the positive for the hatch release solenoid. On Firebird that relay is behind the switch in the dash. On Camaro it is under the center console next to the parking brake.

The simplest way to resolve your problem is to get a new striker-sensing switch. It contains the entire wiring harness for the hatch pull-down unit. GM disconsinued them, but I still have some available.

Lon

 

so it turns out, i'm just a moron. i tied all the grounds together, pretty much running everything straight to the body. after staring at the wiring diagram for about an hour straight, i realized this, haha. it all works again, thanks a lot to everyone for helping me out.

 

Thank you all for the wirring diagrams for the rear hatch draw down motor for a 1992 Camaro. I was able to diagnose and repair the permanent magnet motor with circuit breaker used in that circuit.

Keep up the good work!!!

 

Can anyone tell me what actually activates the pull down motor when u close the hatch?
Mine not working and in my trim in trunk and on lid looks like something she be there( two squar holes in each piece trim) , but all wiring appears to be in place . I've looked at diagrams and couldn't find anything out of place or what shoul be in trim , both holes line up with each other , idk

 

There is a plastic switch bolted with the metal latch. thats what activates the motor. I have parts if you need. I did away with that pull down crud on mine. it latches and unlocks like a normal car now.

 

By any chance have you checked the fuses that I have mentioned in my post somewhere up above?

 

What pieces I need? What do they plug in to?
How u make normal?

 

I removed all of the pull down motor assembly and drilled holes thru the track that slides up and down, applied bolts, nuts, and adjusted to just latch when closed securely. It works great for me, but I'm not into those pull down hatches.

 

Where does that switch that u mention wire into?
Is that what is suppose be in holes in my trim ( switches?)
I can't find any info on or where to get and I don't see where they would wire up at

 

Where your hatch bar clicks into the latch mechanism there should be a black plastic arm/switch. when your hatch bar clicks down into the latch it pushes the small plastic switch along with it. when the switch/plastic arm) is pushed down the motor recognizes that the hatch is fully latched and it begins to pull the hatch downward. The switch is located right next to the latch and wires into the pull down motor and grounds to the body. All of this will be in one hole in the center of your cargo panel(should have brush stuff on each side). The other holes that line up in hatch trim and cargo panel are for the CHMSL(center brake light) contact points, these holes are on driver side just off center. I'll post some pics if you need, can be confusing to read.

 

That would be helpful, so what I'm missing is the brake light contacts ,
If motor doesn't pull down what would be the test to check the motor

 

Does yours look like this?

 

It does

 

OK, see the black square relay, follow the wires on it until you get to the plug for the motor(white plug, 4 wires). Now follow the wires from that plug up to the switch. Id' check there first to make sure it moves freely and there is no damage.

 

Ok I'll check that tomorrow,

 

I think my trunk motor no good , I have power to it and little switch seem to turn off light so I assume it working and I replaced relay and motor still isn't pulling down , guess need find motor

 

the single white wire above the relay that you are talking about, what/ where does that go?

 

Hi, I have a 1987 Trans Am and having rear hatch issues. The motor was not pull down the hatch so I assumed it was a bad motor so I replaced the motor and well that did nothing. When I press on the little switch inside the pull down and nothing moves nor works. Almost like it has no power, would this be the reverse limit switch? Car only has 11,000 original miles so I am lost any help you can give me would be appreciated.
Guy

 

You might also try looking at a 15 amp fuse under the dash.

 

Trickster,
I checked all the fuses they are all good, the rear hatch light works fine, the hatch release button works, the blue and orange wire that plugs into the motor both have power. When I press the switch in the pull down I hear a light click but nothing works. I am at a loss, to me I would think the motor is bad but I replaced it with no change.
Anyone have any idea??
Thanks

 

There is a good thread on here about hatch pull downs and reverse switch testing and repair.

 

Test the reversing switch using a multimeter for continuity as shown in the attached picture. With the switch set as if it has completed the "up" cycle test between R and orange, then test between L and blue. Next flip the switch as if it has completed the down cycle. Test between the R and blue, then L and white. If you have an open in any of the tests you've found that problem. GM discontinued it long ago, but I sell it inder my part number 205180 on the web site www.top-downsolutions.com.