my alternator is good but i still dont have power
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 76
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From: O Town
Car: 82 Camaro
Engine: 305 SBC Carburetor
Transmission: TH-350
my alternator is good but i still dont have power
ok right now i just ran out to o reillys and got my alternator checked cuz i was running at only 13 volts and would loose a lot of power when the lights or heater was on the alternator tested as fine but the guys there said check all my wiring especailly the grounds i need to go to work so i havent had a chance yet but are there any places that usually go bad or wut else might cause this
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Victoria BC Canada
Car: 87 Camaro IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
you know...its pretty common of your lights to dim when at idle, espically at night, its cold, you got your heater goin, the rear defrost and the lights. its a lot of drain, and i think those things put out their max power at like 2000RPM, when you rev up your engine does it charge better and the voltage go back up to like 13.
PS: unless your on a 16V system, 13volts is pretty good, too much voltage will be bad.
PS: unless your on a 16V system, 13volts is pretty good, too much voltage will be bad.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: O Town
Car: 82 Camaro
Engine: 305 SBC Carburetor
Transmission: TH-350
you know...its pretty common of your lights to dim when at idle, espically at night, its cold, you got your heater goin, the rear defrost and the lights. its a lot of drain, and i think those things put out their max power at like 2000RPM, when you rev up your engine does it charge better and the voltage go back up to like 13.
PS: unless your on a 16V system, 13volts is pretty good, too much voltage will be bad.
PS: unless your on a 16V system, 13volts is pretty good, too much voltage will be bad.
when im checking the wiring should i be checking the should i only check the wiring for she charging system or wut
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
From: Victoria BC Canada
Car: 87 Camaro IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
dunno really, if it bothers you that much then mayb take it to a shop and have them look at it. obivously we cant just tell you what to replace without seeing the car, mayb spend 20 or 30 buks to have a mechanic look at it for 30 mins. thats usually how i diagnose problems.
was it always low on juice at idle or was it just recently?
was it always low on juice at idle or was it just recently?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: O Town
Car: 82 Camaro
Engine: 305 SBC Carburetor
Transmission: TH-350
it had been good after i put the right sized belt on it it ran really good and i had no problem and and then i did something to the alternator it shorted when i was changing valve covers i blew one of the fusible links by the starter solenoid so i replaced both and ive been having problems since
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 609
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From: Oslo, Norway
Engine: '85 Monte SS L69 305
Transmission: TH 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 3.23
The problem could of course be related to the workmanship involved in changing the fusible links. You'll have to obtain a multimeter to verify the voltages at different points in the wiring to see where (if any) voltage drop is occurring. The dash guage is not to be relied upon, it may have become faulty and it's needle sticky. In always warm climates 13.8V is the norm. In cold climates 14.4V is in order. There should not be more than 0.1V drop from alt to batt, and max 1V drop to accessories, counting the sum of both positive and ground wiring drops. If there's more than that then the connection/switch involved needs repair or the wiring needs an upgrade.
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