Wiring cooling fans to key switch. Help
Wiring cooling fans to key switch. Help
This is my first post and I would first like to thank everyone, I found every thing I need to know to put a 383 into my 91 5.7 Z28. Now I am stuck, the car runs great, but I keep having problems with after market fan controllers. They keep burning out, regardless the car runs best when the fans are away on so I would like to know what would be the best way for me to wire my fans to my key switch? Should I use a relay or maybe a ford stater solenoid ? I have a few relays on hand, but I can't remember how to wire them up.
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Car: '91 Z28 convertible
Engine: TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.27 posi disc
Depends on how it's all wired up. You didn't mention if you run both fans through a single controller or if you use relays and how many or why the controllers are burning up (from current overload? from engine heat?)
What brand/model controller did you get and how is it wired up? Also, what ECM are you using? Can the computer control the fans? We'll need more info to help you diagnose your problem.
And I would strongly recommend not to wire your fans to the ignition. That really isn't the way to go, for many reasons.
Lou
What brand/model controller did you get and how is it wired up? Also, what ECM are you using? Can the computer control the fans? We'll need more info to help you diagnose your problem.
And I would strongly recommend not to wire your fans to the ignition. That really isn't the way to go, for many reasons.
Lou
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: League City, TX
Car: 90 Formula -- tot resto in progress
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500 stall, by Owen @ ARD
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
If the controllers are burning up, chances are one or both fan
motors are bad, to the point of drawing to much current. If
dual fans, is the controller rated for combined current draw?
That should be the first step. If you insist on driving the fans as
constant on with ignition, run swithced ign. to one side of each
relay solenoid, constant ground to the other. For the high-current
source to the solenoids, run individual fused circuits directly from
the battery/alternator connection. Good luck.
motors are bad, to the point of drawing to much current. If
dual fans, is the controller rated for combined current draw?
That should be the first step. If you insist on driving the fans as
constant on with ignition, run swithced ign. to one side of each
relay solenoid, constant ground to the other. For the high-current
source to the solenoids, run individual fused circuits directly from
the battery/alternator connection. Good luck.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: So Cal
Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Positives are easy.
My car has never overheated since I started running the fans all the time, about 2 years now. There are fewer things to go wrong and the thermostat should keep the car at a reasonable temp.
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From: Massillon, Ohio
Car: 87 TA
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
I've got my fan currently wired up to an ACC fuse in my block and to a toggle switch. Once my car is warmed up I can turn the fan on with the switch. but when I turn the car off the fan will go off too without turning the switch off. When I got the car the fan only has a switch and I would always forget to turn the fan on.
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From: Manchester, CT
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: 1 legger 2.xx(needs upgrade)
Could you be more specific? What are some negatives about running the fans from the ignition switch?
Positives are easy.
My car has never overheated since I started running the fans all the time, about 2 years now. There are fewer things to go wrong and the thermostat should keep the car at a reasonable temp.
Positives are easy.
My car has never overheated since I started running the fans all the time, about 2 years now. There are fewer things to go wrong and the thermostat should keep the car at a reasonable temp.
other than those two reasons i do not know anything elsetom
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: So Cal
Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
What is the thermostat for if not to keep the motor at a constant temp. My car runs at 210* whether is 110* or 40* outside. As far as I know my fans are the original fans and have over 200,000 miles on them and still going strong.
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Car: '91 Z28 convertible
Engine: TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.27 posi disc
Right, the thermostat keeps the engine from overcooling. But as Tom already pointed out, running fans when not necessary only shortens their life and draws power from the batteries/alternator. It's a waste of power and also waste of money because the fans will need to be replaced sooner than later.
I'm not saying y'all can't do it. Feel free to wire up your fans in a way you desire. But the way the fan wiring and control was designed was to minimize the use of the fans so why modify it?
Also, adding extra bypass wires to the existing harness doesn't usually solve the problem, it only hides it. When I bought my car, the fan wiring had dozens of splices and went straight to the ignition (withour relays, yikes!) and it didn't take me much time to figure out the original problem and correct it.
Lou
I'm not saying y'all can't do it. Feel free to wire up your fans in a way you desire. But the way the fan wiring and control was designed was to minimize the use of the fans so why modify it?
Also, adding extra bypass wires to the existing harness doesn't usually solve the problem, it only hides it. When I bought my car, the fan wiring had dozens of splices and went straight to the ignition (withour relays, yikes!) and it didn't take me much time to figure out the original problem and correct it.
Lou
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Like I said these fans are the originals as far as I know with over 200,000 miles on them. Then there is the argument that turning them on and off repeatedly may be worse than leaving them on.
There is only 1 wire that needed to be cut and grounded per fan and not a big deal to reconnect but I'm totally happy with the way they are now.
As far drawing power from the battery/alternator, that's negligible
There is only 1 wire that needed to be cut and grounded per fan and not a big deal to reconnect but I'm totally happy with the way they are now.
As far drawing power from the battery/alternator, that's negligible
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From: California
Car: 1982 Trans Am & 1982 Corvette
Engine: L-98 with LO-3 induction. 350 CFI
Transmission: 5 speed and vette has 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373's in T/A .. vette unknown
I once wired dual fans to my ignition so they came on with the key. You'll quikly learn this is a bad idea. especially after replacing ignition switches. Dual fans pull alot of amps to start up the ignition circuit can't handle it.
do this get a power distribution block from a 89 up camaro it's mounted by the radiator. then get two cooling fan pigtails and two relays. run a battery positive feed to your power distribution block. Then run 2 wires from your power distribution block to the orange wires on your pigtails. find a ignition source and run it to the pigtails red wires and use a toggle switch or temp sensor to ground the green wires on you pigtails. I found my pigtails on a front wheel drive GM car and pulled the actual fan motor wiring out of the harness. you should be able to mount all this right up by the battery and avoid running alot of wire.
once you get all the stuff it's alot easier to do then it sounds. If you need help you can IM me and I will help you.
do this get a power distribution block from a 89 up camaro it's mounted by the radiator. then get two cooling fan pigtails and two relays. run a battery positive feed to your power distribution block. Then run 2 wires from your power distribution block to the orange wires on your pigtails. find a ignition source and run it to the pigtails red wires and use a toggle switch or temp sensor to ground the green wires on you pigtails. I found my pigtails on a front wheel drive GM car and pulled the actual fan motor wiring out of the harness. you should be able to mount all this right up by the battery and avoid running alot of wire.
once you get all the stuff it's alot easier to do then it sounds. If you need help you can IM me and I will help you.
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
You obviously didn't wire it correctly, because if you had used a relay the current draw to the ignition circuit would have been minimal. I've done this for 2 years "no" problems.
Re: Wiring cooling fans to key switch. Help
Right, the thermostat keeps the engine from overcooling. But as Tom already pointed out, running fans when not necessary only shortens their life and draws power from the batteries/alternator. It's a waste of power and also waste of money because the fans will need to be replaced sooner than later.
I'm not saying y'all can't do it. Feel free to wire up your fans in a way you desire. But the way the fan wiring and control was designed was to minimize the use of the fans so why modify it?
Also, adding extra bypass wires to the existing harness doesn't usually solve the problem, it only hides it. When I bought my car, the fan wiring had dozens of splices and went straight to the ignition (withour relays, yikes!) and it didn't take me much time to figure out the original problem and correct it.
Lou
I'm not saying y'all can't do it. Feel free to wire up your fans in a way you desire. But the way the fan wiring and control was designed was to minimize the use of the fans so why modify it?
Also, adding extra bypass wires to the existing harness doesn't usually solve the problem, it only hides it. When I bought my car, the fan wiring had dozens of splices and went straight to the ignition (withour relays, yikes!) and it didn't take me much time to figure out the original problem and correct it.
Lou
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